Stick with a recirc BOV and you will not have any stalling issues.

Also I recommend doing other mods before this, this is not a smart choice for your first mod.

 

what would you recommend... i was thinking of installing the TT and a drop in intake... and debating between putting a BOV... what would you recommend?...

 

since we are talking about bov's. if i buy a greddy type s bov for instance, and the bov is vehicle specific, is the actually bov different to "that" car specificially or only the kit that comes with it? the reason i am asking is because i want to get a universal fit one, but all i can find are vehicle specific ones.

 

Here you go; I'm feeling generous. This is what I've recommended to tons of people in tons of threads. Do these mods IN ORDER OF IMPORTANCE with my preferences in parentheses:

- Boost Gauge
- MBC (Forge UNOS)
- Turboback exhaust (Megan 3")
- Dynoflash + fuel pump (do at same time)
- BOV (Forge RS BOV)

These mods will put you right at 300whp/300wtq at 21psi on a Dynojet with 93oct for very little money and 0 reliability issues. You only need a BOV after you are running higher-than-stock boost, and it should only be one that is fully-recirculating.

 

Can't really understand what you said, but I think you're asking if BOVs are specific to certain cars. They are specific, because they are designed with the certain flange needed to mate to the stock intake and IC pipes.

 

and these things wont give me problems with smog and s***...

 

In California? I don't know - you probably would have issues with the exhaust, but not the others.

 

im sorry but im not really the sharpest tool in the shed whats an MBC

 

Come on, man, there's no easier thing to search for than this. Just put "MBC" into the search field and take a look. You can also look in my sig and see the MBC I use. A search for that unit by name will tell you as well...

 

Doing a search for MBC and having the answer is faster than typing the question in here, some people are just lazy.

I vote for an instant IP ban whenever a post is started with the following words on it: BOV, intake, stall, is this true.

 

To answer the posters original question you will see stalling or rpm dropping from a BOV when you VTA and put the clutch in while tached up that is when your RPMS will drop below the normal 800-900k. The only way I would see it stall on the highway would be like a panic stop where you were under boost. Second question MBC is Manual Boost Controller. I have the greddy type s BOV on my car. I bought it that way I am not sure if it was put on to get rid of boost leak or not. I know from exp about the stalling issues like I described above. I added a HKS EIDS to correct my problem. I would say not to change your BOV unless you need to. I like the sound it makes but would I done it just for the sound no. Good luck either way.

 

thanks

 

That just about sums up everything I was going to tell you

 

Someone remind me what the reason is some '05s don't seem to have the same problems as earlier models with VTA BOVs. I know with '05s it seems to be hit or miss with how they affect driveability, I'm just trying to remember why.

 

Because the rpm drop is delayed. The RPMs sorta hang anywhere above 3500rpm when you shift an 05, so the between-shift richness problem is diminished, or so that's the theory...