I had the exact same problem with my internally gated 50trim. Pre-load it a little and it will be fine.

Girlie

 

To add: get the boost up to normal levels and it looks like you will be putting the same power down as 2 of the other 05's with cams. Impressive for the ported parts/o2 housing.

Girlie

 

Warrtalon,



I battle the other day for nearly one hour trying to find out why the Evo 9 was only boosting 12PSI after I installed a MBC. I tried one time, the I tried the other way, then I reversed the direction of the MBC, then I went clockwise and later I went all the counter clockwise. Nothing fixed it.

Later on we found that one of the rubber/boost lines was twisted/bent/pinched. I then rerouted the rubber hose and got 20PSI. No more problems since. Make sure non of your boost lines are pinched and removed them if needed, blow them.

Also don't forget to put back the copper little ball bledder that comes with the factory boost line by the compressor side, that would stabilize your boost and eliminate 90% of your boost peak fluctuations.

If you want I can post a pic of it.

I had the same symtoms as you are having, slow a$$ boost, low power, etc.

Try that!!

Good luck!!


Carlos

 

good numbers for your mods war, hopefully you get the boost problem figured out then I am sure you will gain even more power..

 

Good luck getting it all fixed before Al retunes. I had and still have some boost issues since putting on a high pressure actuator. They are finicky with the preload. Not enough and you get sluggish boost or too much and the boost goes too high and creeps with RPM (my problem--I'm at 22+ at wastegate pressure in cold weather). You're lucky though with no lower heat shield. You can play with it easily. On mine, I have to drain the radiator to even get to it to adjust it.

I dunno about the comparing uncorrected numbers thing. Heat is a huge factor that SAE helps with. For example, your "before" dyno above was on a hot summer day and your new dyno was on a cold day. Given that you are using the same exact dyno, I think using SAE numbers would be a more accurate way to compare them since the temps alone were probably worth 20+ whp uncorrected (40+ degrees ambient difference I think). And once you are at high altitude, I would think that you would use SAE to more accurately compare different dyno days at the same dyno (taking altitude out of the mix).

I'll probably try to attend the next dyno day and check things out. I probably won't be ready to dyno unfortunately though due to my own boost issues.

Good luck.

 

I had same exact problem when I installed my Forge WGA. I turned the "turnbuckle" all the way tight and then turn once back. I took it out for a test run and hit 1.2 bar on stock guage. Hooked the unos back up and set it to half of what Al had set it when he tuned me. I matched my original boost level when being tuned by Al almost exact. I only had to turn Unos up 1 click. I now hit right above the KG/whatever mark under 1.5 on stock guage. I am assuming this is 1.6 bar? Whatever, car is perfect now and I am happy. Believe it or not, it took me a night's sleep to realize I was adjusting turnbuckle wrong way.

Wharrlton, I know you know to unhook the unos while adjusting the WGA, right? You are supposed to hook WGA to the turbo/O2 nipple with hose and just adjust using boost guage. I had to call Forge just to verify how to adjust everything myself. You will work it out and be happy, it really sounds like a WGA arm tension issue.

 

Thanks for all the advice. It could be a pinched line, and it could be the pre-load. I believe it's the pre-load, since I still have over an inch of threads left that the turnbuckle could travel down (for KevO). I know it's a pain to get to and adjust, but I will try getting it turned down 3-4 rotations, then go test the boost again.

 

I am suprised to see that you didnt go with the buschur high-boost actuator..

 

Honestly, I didn't know about it, but Forge has a nice one and Mike sent it to me, so I'm trying it out. I'm sure it works well; I just didn't know how much to pre-load it.

 

Despite being at 19psi and lower peak #'s take a look at the torque curve, it starts early and stays, thats what counts, besides needing a fine tune on the boost controlling system, your car looks like it's setup for some good power in the future.

Have you tried the red spring?

I would try one more mm of preload and if that doesn't have any effect on boost than the problem isnt the act tension, something else.

So bassically you can't get more than 19 at any mbc setting?

 

Clay,

This is your problem right their .

 

I think its a combination problem of the MBC, BOV, and WGA. All this aftermarket stuff has to be dialed in. Does not come preset from the factory. There is nothing wrong with your car. You just have to spend lots of time getting all 3 parts to work together properly.

 

Clayton,

I'd have to guess that the issue is deffinetly the amount of preload (or lack thereof) added to the wastegate arm.

You may want to add just a small bit (incrementally) more to it and see what that does for you.

Another thing to consider though, and this may be my mistake for not mentioning it as I don't know what we ever discussed exactly what boost levels (spikes and tapering) you wanted to see, but with our actuator and boost controller, most people have experienced little to no boost tapering at all. The nature of the components together usually means that the boost will typically spike/rise to a certain level (based on the adjustment of all components) and stay there.

I don't know that there is any way to change this as this has been my experience with every car to which I have been privy to information about or worked on and my own car is performing this same way with these components.

Let me know what happens!

 

What happens is if I raise the boost on the MBC, it eventually climbs to that setting around 5000-5500rpm, but the initial "spike" is never higher than 18psi, so I can make more boost and potentially more peak power, but I can't get that first 1500rpm worth of torque. I will be adjusting the WGA turnbuckle today and then testing it. I realize I have to dial in the MBC, WGA, and BOV together, so I think it will all be good after I get done. I'm going to rush back to the dyno tomorrow during the day if I get it fixed tonight...

 

Your flapper door remains open so you are always leaking boost into the exhaust. Your turbo has to spin at speeds to support say 26-27 psi to achieve your 19-20 since hypothetically you are letting out 6-8psi out the flapper door. Close the door with the WGA arm. At times even at the tightest setting, it is still not short enough so it has to be cut shorter.