i used the crushed 1G in my 03 and i,m using one on my BR350 IX. The BR comes with a forge bov but i exchanged it after talking to Dave when i picked up my car in ohio. i just couldnt take the fluttering so i called Dave after the test drive at medina mit. and told Dave i had great success using the 1G on my 03 8 so he overnighted me the 1G and i love it. stock like driveability with no fluttering and hols the boost i,m running with ease. idle is smooth as glass also. if i wasnt using a flanged uicp i would use the stock dv (bov). I have a brand new forge rs and even that fluttered to the point where i didnt enjoy driving locally,a lot of off and on the gas in low boost situations. so i,m definetely a believer in the 1G (crushed) bov and the mr metal one. BTW the one that came on the BR package was the forge with the springs and washers not the RS which is one of the best out there but just not for me and my style of driving. If i upped the boost significantly with more mods then i would through the rs on as i believe the crushed 1G can hold 24-26 tops front what i,ve been told. i,m only running 20-21 down to aroung18.5-19.5 psi depending on the weather. sometimes when its warm with low humidity it will hold 20 to the redline, its happened in the winter also a couple of times.with a test pipe, mbc,and fuel pump plus re-tune theres another 40-50 whp in this car

 

maybe after enough chanting people will see the light.

 

I've been running 1g BOVs in different configurations for a long time, and naturally one ended up on my EVO, so I'd like to add a couple points.

Crushing the BOV the right way does not involve anything as unscientific as measuring how far the nipple is from the cap. The right way to do it is with a mighty vac or other hand operated vacuum pump. Crush the BOV until it takes 19"hg to pull the valve off the seat (hold it up to a light to see when it just breaks the seal). Going to 20 or 21 inches usually makes the valve start to flutter. You can always start low and keep testing as you increase the crush if you want to be ****.

The Dejon leak stop kit is what old skool DSMers call the "Gus Mod." Tom "Gus" Mahone, a turbo dodge guy, started this many years ago. Unfortunately Gus was in a motorcycle accident a few years ago and did not make it. It looks like his site is no longer maintained. I thought Gary Donovan (www.thedodgegarage.com) was keeping it up, but I guess not. Gus was an absolute genious when it comes to this stuff. And he tested everything he did thoroughly.

Essentially, you block off the fast release port on the bottom, intercept that passage from the side, and then control what that fast release port sees for pressure to manipulate the BOV. With that port to atmosphere, the valve simply will not leak. With a pre-TB boost signal applied, it operates like stock.

I run the 1g BOV like this currently on the EVO. At the track I just pull the Gus line off, when I leave, it put it back on. Pretty simple. You can automate it with a solenoid, like Dejon kit. The real trick is where to get the trigger from. Using a boost switch will often cause some part throttle/partial boost driveability issues. A WOT switch is the best option, set so it comes on around 80% throttle or so.

 

I'm a big fan of the 1G bov w/ the gus mod. I use to run the Dejon leak stop kit on the GSX. It worked great. Pressure tested it up to 28 psi without any sign of leaking at the bov. The only problem I had was that I would get a little surging/bucking anytime I'd build up more than ~15 psi at part throttle and back off slowly(15 psi being where the dejon pilot valve would relieve pressure to the underside of the bov diaphragm allowing it to seal up). This was just an issue I had and could have possibly been something else in my setup causing it as well. Maybe others using the Dejon leak stop kit can comment on this.

When I sold the GSX, the 1G bov w/ dejon leak stop kit went with it. So when I got the Evo I decided to go with another gus modded 1G bov of course, but this time use a tps controlled solenoid to actuate the quick release port. I use DSMLink to control the tps actuation point but a WOT switch would work pretty much the same way. Now I have zero complaints about this setup. Pressure tested up to 30 psi with no signs of leaks. I get no surging what so ever no matter how I drive now.

For the cost of a 1G bov, used or new, you can't beat this setup imo. Modify it yourself or send it off to www.dejonpowerhouse.com and have them do it for next to nothing. I use the fp solenoid so that cost me nothing. I think WOT switches are pretty inexpensive and can be found at summit and many other places for a good price. So all in all a pretty cost effective mod if you ask me.

 

That's exactly the trouble I was refering to when using a boost switch. You are certainly not alone in that TPS based control works much better, and is how Gus originally intended it to be switched IIRC. He probably tested both and came to the same conclusion.

 

mmm i have no problem with bucking... but and i like to try to cause it... it just doesn't happen anymore for me. shrugs... it's all in the small things that you can't possibly isolate.

the fact still stands though, one of these setups is the best that money can buy. best part... it don't break the bank.

 

Can someone tell me where to get the flange for this thing? i've been searching and can't find it.

 

must be made. it's really simple. otherwise get one from rre it's even on their site.

 

Yea i see the one they have. it's just the flat plate. I'm actually looking for the one that slides into the stock rubber intake.

 

I got my 1G bov adapter flange from www.dejonpowerhouse.com. Go to the bov-misc-tools section and its in there.

 

yesss. thx

 

With the gus mod mine has held 45 psi with the gus mod. I've ran 11.60's on this BOV.

 

1G BOV is great and like people have said, can get it for $30 but I think the JDM MR BOV cannot be beat. Get it new for $99 and it holds what the stock turbo throws out.

 

careful... what they sell is the steal one. if you have alum intercooler pipes you will not be able to weld the two together. rre makes the aluminum ones.

 

There is no need to weld anything. That is if you are running your bov like the stock setup. The adapter flange from dejonpowerhouse bolts up to the bov. It then mounts in the car just like the stock bov would, using the rubber hose that comes off the uicp.