Why would anyone ever get any other bov except this one? My buddy has one thats crushed to hold 26 psi to redline. Mine is not crushed and it hold 19 to redline so I will crush it a bit. It is absolutely perfect. It blows off with slight throttle but holds enough at wot. Nice Pshhhh sound, like the stocker. I paid $30 for it. I was just wondering why people, unless down right necessary, would go out on the limb and purchase a $250 bov for no reason at all? Just curious that is all. I'm not bashing anyone, it just doesn't seem necessary to me. Any input would be great.

-Mike

 

Only because it doesn't hold quite as much boost as others even when crushed (no, it does not hold 26psi to redline and the stock turbo can't even push 26psi at 7k). Unfortunately, once crushed, you can't go back - it is not adjustable, although at $30, you can just have two, right? It's a very good BOV and is the predecessor to the JDM MR DV. The JDM MR DV does not need to be crushed to hold as well as an uncrushed 1g, but then the JDM MR can ALSO be crushed for holding even more boost more effectively. Remember that the downsides of crushing are 1) you can damage the nipple beyond repair (doesn't happen often), and 2) you will experience more compressor surge (no big deal, because that's the price you pay for holding boost more strongly).

 

Well said. And I forgot to mention it was not on an evo that it held 26 psi to redline when crushed (which he does), it was on a talon. What you said makes perfect sense. I was honestly just curious because for people with the stock turbo it is perfect (just like the mr only cheaper). Thanks again!!

-Mike

 

2 years ago I did a comparison of the 1g, crushed 1g, and a Greddy Type S with the single large spring in it. Overall the 1g not crushed had the best driveabilty but was the slowest of the three, the crushed 1g was about .10th faster 12.05 verse 12.18 but the Type s would run consistant 11.92's to 11.96's. As hard as I tried I was never able to get the car in the 11's on a 1g valve. I made over 30 passes comparing the valves so I think the data was pretty good.

So you know I was running a stock 04 turbo on a BR Stage 4 car with a Mail-in DynoFLash. Boost was set for 21 psi and I was running 100 octane and no Alky.

 

this is when you get the leak stop kit from dejon tools

 

/\ exactly

 

^ Bingo, I have that on my car and the 1g will hold what ever I throw at it. I've pressure tested the system to 35 psi and not a peep from it. Though when testing it, before the pilot valve switches, the crushed 1g starts leaking around 12-13.

Ivan

 

wow, great comparisons and good info. Thanks guys

 

True, I totally forgot about that, because I've never used it. I should have rememberd that Ivan was using it, because he first told me about it.

 

the only problem is you kinda get this big mess of hoses. between the mbc the leak stop kit nad the lines going from intake mani to intake it gets a bit hairy. i'm tryinng do a clean install and tap them all off the turbo outlet.

 

Guys I'm trying to figure out what "crush the blowoff valve" means. Crush? What is that.

 

You put the valve in a vice and collaps it so the nipple is 1/8" to a 1/16" to the edge of the can. You can use a hammer but one wack to far and you ruin the valve.

BTW, I thought the 1g valve was about $90?

 

1g BOV new $86, used they can be had for less than 20

 

yeah the most expensive you'll see one is like $75 and thats all polished and pretty

 

i got one for free