Ok so when the car is cold its pretty difficult to get into 1st when stopped and sometimes 2nd when rolling slow. when im stopped and put it into 1st it will roll forward a bit even with the clutch completely depressed. any suggestions?

 

You need to raise the clutch engagement point. ACT units like to start to grab about midway and fully engage at about 85-90% near the top. This can be accomplished by loosening the clutch rod retaining nut (11mm I think) and spinning the rod clockwise I believe. Leave it without the nut tight until it is engaging right and then tighten it.

 

+1

The reason the car moves forward is because the clutch pedal is not properly adjusted, this is also why the car has trouble going into gear. It's the same as when you try to put the car into gear without the clutch, at certain rpm's and loads it will go in like butter, but others it wont.

Once you get it adjusted, it will be fine.

 

Go to evomoto.com for the tech guide on this adjustment. It's a 10mm nut, and this adjustment will most likely work for you.

 

Well damn. My 11 works too, lol. I do not leave that nut very tight and used to use visegrips to loosen it in the past.

Last time I drove your car Luke, I was able to bang those gears like a two dollar hooker when we were tuning your car on MAFTPRO and TTP Meth injection. I am surprised a month later the adjustment is different, weird. Maybe your retaining nut was a too loose from the factory?

We did not install his ACT, btw.

 

Fwiw, I just had to re-adjust my ACT again just this week. The nut didn't back out, and the rod was right where I left it. I only had 2 threads left, then I turned the rod half a turn, so now I have 1.5 threads left. It is back to shifting perfectly, but as I had feared when this happened the first time, the engagement point keeps changing. I thought when the disk wore down, the fluid would cause the clutch to adjust accordingly, but it didn't. I was back to having trouble with my quick shifts and was having notchiness/grinding with regular shifting. Everything is snickity smooth now, but I probably can only do this 1 or 2 more times before the rod is too far out.

 

Now is this the procedure I stated was required periodically throughout the year, that Dirk from ACT stated "was not required"? That the unit self adjusted for wear?

 

Warrtalon:

To avoid having your threaded rod on the last threads you can do what Jon from TRE has a recommendation on his site, spacing the pin on the slave cylinder with a 1 - 1.5mm washer.


Or, Lancershop.com sells a longer slave sylinder rod if it is not disengaing fully.

http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...9&cat=6&page=1

Mattj

 

Yes. Both what he said and what you said went through my mind last week as I started to feel notchiness and the inability to do my 3-4 powershift. After a slight adjustment, everything went back to normal. I realize that my abuse of the clutch is not helping its life, but if I didn't know about the adjustment, I wouldn't be having much fun with my Evo right now...

 

I was hoping to not have to do that, but if it comes to that, I will. Thanks for the suggestions and link.

I figure at some point, if you get too far out, then you could have issues with the clutch not being fully engaged with the clutch let out, right? Or am I off...

 

Do other clutch brands have these seem types of adjustment issues like ACT seems to?

 

Any single disk requires adjustment in order to avoid the 7k lockout. As far as needing adjustment over the course of its life, I'm not sure.

 

It is unlikely that ACT is singled out. It is more of a single disc thing + using a TOB and not a HRB.

 

its not so much while I am shifting at high rpms just mainly low and while I put it into 1st while sitting it roll forward. Ill try the adjustment.

 

My car doesnt roll foward but with my foot all the way down on the clutch, if I try to put it into first or second i'll get a vibration / bump feel...is should I move the engagement up? It's already really high i think.