Evolving Member
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Don
Buy a UTEC/Xede piggy back and just pull it off if you need to go to the dealer. Try letting a friend drive and sit in the passenger seat, I think you may be surprised...Originally Posted by dsldsl25
I am not going to get a tune till I know everything is covered under warrenty. I will have one done shortly after. I will try the clutch test, and have my wife look at my boost gauge again while I am driving. Don
Evolving Member
well, another thing to check is the wheel. you said you put on a winter set. how much do they weigh? i know on my old honda i could really tell the difference between to sets of wheels with a big weight difference. getting extra mass rolling can really make a difference in feel. just a thought. perhaps try to switch back to the summer set for a test drive.
Newbie
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I was giving dsl adice about what may be a reason for his potential power loss. A used MR with 10,000 unknown miles on it will only benefit from a new clutch. That may not be the culprit, but only after my recent purchase of a used MR with similar miles, I was asking the exact questions as dsl. My clutch had no noticeble slip or disfunction. Well, my 6th gear went out, unrelated, so, I had an ACT clutch and new flywheel installed. When I got the car back, the power loss issue was history. This may not be the case for dsl, and Scott is making great numbers on the same clutch, but how could anybody go wrong with a new clutch?Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Mustard, please don't recommend a new clutch to everyone like that. Scott himself from TTP is still on his stock clutch with 400+whp/tq...
BTW, I have had pm conversation with him and I did let him know that if he had any questions regarding this problem or upgrade path to pm the Warrtalon.
Evolved Member
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BTW, I have had pm conversation with him and I did let him know that if he had any questions regarding this problem or upgrade path to pm the Warrtalon.
The answer to your question is that it costs about $1500 to replace the clutch and flywheel after labor, so it's not the sort of thing you should suggest that people do just randomly to troubleshoot a loss of power. I don't know the details of your situation, but the LAST thing anyone should do is change their clutch to troubleshoot a problem like this. Originally Posted by mustard
but how could anybody go wrong with a new clutch?BTW, I have had pm conversation with him and I did let him know that if he had any questions regarding this problem or upgrade path to pm the Warrtalon.
Luckily, after his 4th gear test, his doesn't appear to be slipping.
Dsldsl, PLEASE do not try to boost before the car warms up. I hope that you don't do that on a regular basis. Do NOT attempt to boost, especially full boost, until the car has reached normal operating temperatures.
Evolved Member
i trick myself from getting used to the power by keeping my car on low boost(17psi) and step on it...i forget it's @ 17psi and i'm like...whats wrong? then i look at my profec b and see it says "lo" = low boost ...i switch it to high and surprise myself...you guys should try it...i can go days without boosting...that keeps the element of surprise up too when you go WOT
Evolved Member
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The ECU limits boost until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Always take it easy on your car until it is warm because pushing a cold motor to its limits is never recommended.Originally Posted by dsldsl25
Is it supposed to only hit 1 while warming up?