Hey, I am having problems when applying 100% throttle. Just when I floor it, the tach starts to go up but then stalls and drops a couple hundred rpm's, but then goes back up as if nothing happened. Maybe there is a leak but I cannot see any loose hoses. I have had a hks bov for a few months with no problems but did just get a new factory intercooler so I tried to reset the ecu by unhooking the battery and having it idle for 15 minutes but with no luck. When I floor it, I get a normal response with it going up a couple hundred rpm's but then it just drops back down a couple hundred, before accelerating as if nothing as happened. Kind of hard to explain other then it isn't running right at full throttle. Please if you have any ideas on what is wrong and how to fix it, let me know.

 

Clutch? how many miles? I say your clutch is going out of it! Do you smell clutch? hard on it? I bet the farm its the clutch. (I dont own a farm for the record!)

 

I just hit the 11,000 mile mark. I heard of clutches lasting only 10,000 miles but I haven't been hard on it on a regular basis so I figured it would last longer. It does smell after running hard but it has always given off a scent after a running in the hills.
Thanks, I think you are right because when it happens, it feels like the clutch is disengaging on its own and then re-engaging. Or its the other way around. Are there any clutches on the market stronger then factory but not too much more expensive?

 

Curious, what do you think of your short shifter kit? Had one in my civic and I loved it but I heard from somebody that a kit for the evo is no good. Couldn't remember what brand if it was a specific brand.

 

Definitely sounds like a slipping clutch.

 

The Tach Stalls or the car stalls? If Tach stalls then its probably ur clutch if the car stalls then its not ur clutch.

Factory clutch with install by dealer is about 2200 to 2400, cant remember how much I did mines for. You can get an ACT or the Exedy, maybe cusco and installed for a little more or a little less. ACT and Maybe the Exedy Hyper Single would be in your price range installed or a little less.

I havent heard of short shifters not being good for the Evo. I have a B&M 30% that i got in 03 when I got my Evo and it works great...

 

I have the B&M also, love it. My stock clutch only lasted 5K miles. I bought the car NEW. Good luck.

 

I would say an Exedy hyper single? ACT? all are alot stronger, for less "jack" than the twins.

 

I got my factory clutch replaced for less than $1200 at the dealer.

And I'll also bet my non-existent farm that it's the clutch.

 

I replaced mine for $553.00 (did my own work). (ACT street disc + 2100lb pressure plate)

http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=3907

 

I wouldn't recommend the 2100lb pp if you're going to pay for an ACT. Their PP is 2900lb - I think 2100lb may be the stock pressure plate spec.

Dnshift, it definitely sounds like your clutch is slipping. Verify this by putting the car in 5th while cruising at 2500rpm, then hammer the gas. If your rpms shoot up unnaturally right when the boost builds, then that is telling you the clutch is slipping at peak torque.

 

The problem is NOT the clutch. If it was, the RPM's would continue to rise, but speed would not. Especially since the turbo would be coming on to boost, it would easily overpower a slipping clutch. And since the Evo has no traction control devices, there would be no reason for the studden stalling and then climbing again.

I would check for a leak between the MAF and the turbo inlet. It could be a hose with a small hole in it that only leaks under vacuum. Keep in mind that everything between the air cleaner and the turbo inlet is almost always under vacuum, and when the turbo really starts spooling up, there is a good deal of vacuum in that pipe. The stutter would come from the MAF sensor reading a specific amount of flow through it, but the leak would mean there was actually more air coming into the motor than the MAF was reading. This could cause a lean situation, and a knock and the ECU could be pulling timing.

If you have no way to datalog, try disconnecting your MAF, then sealing off your intake pipe and use an air compressor to pressurize your intake plumbing and listen for leaks. DO NOT EXCEED 25 PSI! You can use any random vacuum line except the BOV line as an inlet to pressurize the system once you've sealed it off at the MAF end of the intake pipe. I have found many stray vacuum leaks on friends' cars by doing this. I test my car every time I do a major amount of work to be sure there are no leaks and this method has never failed me. This will test every silicon connector and every vacuum line in your entire motor all at once, it works great.

 

Jbrown, he didn't say the car stalled; he said the tach stalled. He just didn't know how to explain what he was experiencing, and it appears he's never experienced a slipping clutch. His tach shot up, stopped, then fell back down - this is the clutch slipping to a certain point then grabbing again.

 

I agree with you Warrtalon, I had to read his description 2-3 times, as my initial inclination was, that it wasn't the clutch. It was his way of explaining it, and he confirmed with the smell of the clutch, and the fact he also thinks its the clutch. I still say clutch. my2c

 

Well it takes 20 minutes and costs $0.00 to check for a vacuum leak, and all damn day and $500+ to do a clutch, which would you guys suggest he try first?