DIY 10.5 / Exhaust Manf. Porting
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DIY 10.5 / Exhaust Manf. Porting
If I lived in the U.S. I would send my parts to Buschur to be ported, however I live in the 3rd world. I was wondering if it is worth it to attempt doing my own mild porting on my new 10.5 hotside and my stock exhaust manifold before installing them.
Should I limit my porting efforts to gasket matching, I mean can I really F... things up by trying to port the hotside myself. One of the two siamesed ports in the hotside seems more restrictive than the other.
I really liked the pics of Warrtalons Buschur ported hotside. But, maybe it is outside the realm of my limited skills to try and duplicate this.
Should I limit my porting efforts to gasket matching, I mean can I really F... things up by trying to port the hotside myself. One of the two siamesed ports in the hotside seems more restrictive than the other.
I really liked the pics of Warrtalons Buschur ported hotside. But, maybe it is outside the realm of my limited skills to try and duplicate this.
Dude, It's totally easy to gasket match. I would say you shouldn't need any more than that, unless you are planning on building 600+ HP.
I just installed a BR 20-g on my 2005 MR.
Dang, I should have taken pictures, but...
Anyways, just lay the gasket on the bottom of the exhaust manifold, & mark the insides of the area with a marker, or scratch it with a utility knife or something.. Then do the same on the exhaust housing. Get out the carbide die grinder, & open the hole up to match that gasket, & smooth it out to at least 1" away from the hole, or maby 2" if it's easy to reach. Inside the exhaust manifold, try to thin down the sides, where you can look down the runners from the exhaust ports.. I took about 1/4 " out of it, & rounded it nicely to meet the gasket hole.
Do the same on the exhaust housing.
I opened up the wastegate holes under the flapper just a bit, to give me more rock solid boost control. Make sure to not leave any burrs that might keep the wastegate flapper from closing flat.
I also ported the turbo's outlet to match the 2" stainless pipe that Buschur sent with it.
With driving it now, if I step on it, in 4'th gear at 2000 rpm's, it gets to 10psi before 2500 rpm's.
I haven't boosted it over 12 to 14 psi yet, as the car is getting tuned by Al of Dynoflash on March 4'th, so we'll see what we can get out of it then.
I just installed a BR 20-g on my 2005 MR.
Dang, I should have taken pictures, but...
Anyways, just lay the gasket on the bottom of the exhaust manifold, & mark the insides of the area with a marker, or scratch it with a utility knife or something.. Then do the same on the exhaust housing. Get out the carbide die grinder, & open the hole up to match that gasket, & smooth it out to at least 1" away from the hole, or maby 2" if it's easy to reach. Inside the exhaust manifold, try to thin down the sides, where you can look down the runners from the exhaust ports.. I took about 1/4 " out of it, & rounded it nicely to meet the gasket hole.
Do the same on the exhaust housing.
I opened up the wastegate holes under the flapper just a bit, to give me more rock solid boost control. Make sure to not leave any burrs that might keep the wastegate flapper from closing flat.
I also ported the turbo's outlet to match the 2" stainless pipe that Buschur sent with it.
With driving it now, if I step on it, in 4'th gear at 2000 rpm's, it gets to 10psi before 2500 rpm's.
I haven't boosted it over 12 to 14 psi yet, as the car is getting tuned by Al of Dynoflash on March 4'th, so we'll see what we can get out of it then.
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