Not completely done but will be tomorrow. It still needs the bars to support the rear strut bar to the rear support beams, the fuel cell still needs to be fully mounted, it needs to be painted and the window net still needs to go on. But the cage is mainly in the car. Ill show some more pics when its all said and done. I should have done a few things different (Fitting the cage with the full stock interior from the front seats forward w/ headliner gets to be a very tight fit for the driver). I also wanted to have the seats slidable so I made a custom locking bracket and used sliders to mount the seats... little did I know the seats hit the door bars about 2 inches forward from the main hoop.... needless to say they dont move much Anyways it turned out decent all in all.

http://www.thedrunken.com/gallery/ma...2_itemId=18536

 

Man, hard to believe thats a $30k car.

 

It will all go back together But yes, seeing it like that is horrid... even without all the cage installed when I stripped the car preparing it, it looked like a stolen heap of crap.

Welcome to the world of racing

 

post some pics when your done, i bet it looks awesome

 

that is hardcore. i don't think i'd ever have the heart to do that to my car.

 

I will post up some pics in a few days (Maybe tomorrow) once I get the interior back in. It will look great Im sure. The cage was made to fit all the stock plastic back in (Had to relocate the rear view mirror and cut some holes in the dash though).

The fuel cell turned out great... amazing how it just fits PERFECTLY in there... looks like it was made to fit there when you see it in person. Once the brackets are done for it I think it will look amazing. It also is low enough that the top is under the top of the rear tires so it will help keep the weight low and ensure it passes any tech.

The window net I had custom made to fit as best as possible also.

The car did get much tougher to get in and out of. I should have had the front A-Pillar bars go farther forward but I was concerned it may not clear all the electronic boxes / fuses and I would never be able to have a heater if I did it that way so this is much more flexible.

The roof hoop is also extremely close to my head, especially with a helmet so padding is a MUST and this is an EXTREMELY dangerous thing to drive on a street without a helmet.

 

I hear ya. If somehow i did get it that far apart, it would take a very, very long time to get the energy to put it all back together. Trina, more power to you. There arent that many people on here with the "get it done" kinda mind set on here. Good luck. As long as i get kicked out of the track a few times this year i'll be happy with that.

 

The interior on the Evo is actually pretty easy to remove and put back in. Then again most cars aint tough The thing I am not looking forward to is cutting all the Stainless Braided line and putting all the fittings on. That is a serious PITA. I am having a problem trying to get all this crap done before the track opens.... I need to finish the lines and wiring for the new fuel pump setup, finish the roll cage and interior, I plan to put head springs in the car, bigger injectors, and actually try to find some time to actually tune the pig. I have a very rough tune with the meth at 27psi. Id like to get to 30psi on meth and 32ish on C-16 before going to the track. Too much to do, not enough time and the ambition level is not all that high. Im also trying to do all this and buy another vehicle... Im not a millionaire so that makes it tougher at the same time. Oh well Well see how it works out in the end I suppose.

 

And trust me.... driving the car the way it sits now seriously sucks. Id rather drive my stupid BLincon or Astro Van before this thing the way it sits. (Doesnt help that it doesnt have a heater at the moment and its barely 20 degrees outside)

 

Braided line is your friend. You see now there is silver and black AN fittings? Looks alot better than the ugly **** red and blue. Hopefully Sat. Sean Ivey will be tunning my car in jersey. Theres a station that sell 110 locally. Cant get 116 till march "when the tracks open". See what the 35 can put down. What size injectors did you get? I ditched the 780's for 1000's.

 

Ill most likely use 1000cc.

I have a mix match of the Aeroquip fittings (Blue and Red) and HIGH quality Jegs fittings (Black). I dont like braided line... looks perty but I just suck at putting it together... maybe I just need more practice. I guess at the end of the install Ill be pretty good at it. We have a few places that have 110 at the pump. I can always get C-16 shipped or next time Im in Chicago I can pick it up at AMS.

I guess I get to see what the 35r can put down as well as last year was a joke for the car.

 

TRIN, is that a 8 point cage. correct me if i wrong. but wont a 6 point cage be good for 9.99 and slower? im getting a cage next month and the guy is doing the roll bar, rear braces and some pin locking removable side bars (from the roll to the floor at the A pillar). no windshield bars or dash bars. i like how tight they were able to get your cage. from the outside with the car together how visable is it? no chance of getting kicked out now for going fast

 

No it is a 10 point. There are bars going down the A-Pillars and one connecting those together. I also tied the rear of the car together by welding a bar connecting the rear struttowers together and to the cage.

This is what ya need:

A helmet for 13.99 or quicker
A flywheel scattershield for an 11.99 or quicker
A driveshaft loop for an 11.49 or quicker

A rollbar (5-point, 6-point or 8 point) for 11.49 or quicker
I think you technically need a SFI 18.1 harmonic balancer at 10.99 or quicker but no one cares.
Master killswitch (Battery) for cars running 9.99 or quicker
You need a competition license for running 9.99 or quicker

A rollcage (10-point) if you trap at 135 or quicker OR 10.99 or faster OR if you have have not modified the firewall, floor or body you can substitute it for a rollbar down to a 10.00(But if you trap at over 135 you still need the cage).

A firejacket (SFI 3.2A/1) for 11.49-10.00
A jacket and pants (SFI 3.2A/5) and gloves (SFI 3.3/1) for 9.99-7.50
A single parachute for trapping 150mph or quicker
A 10-point is good for an 8.5 & slower.

These are things you need with a rollbar or cage regardless of speed or et:

Window net (27.1 SFI)
Aftermarket belts (16.1 SFI)
Rollbar padding where you head can whack it (SFI 45.1)
You need to mount the driver seat to the cage at this point also I believe

You also need a master battery cutoff switch if you mount the battery in the rear and technically a battery box to seal it off from the driver compartment (Or cover up all the holes in the rear bulkhead with some metal).

I think that is the most of it at least

 

The cage is VERY visable, from all angles looking into the car. The cage is about as close to the walls/roof as possible while retaining all stock plastic.... that said, its not that close the actual metal in the car. Make no mistake about it.... when you look in my car it looks nothing like a street car anymore.

 

It looks pretty good. We have a stealth cage in our EVO.