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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 12:29 PM
  #16  
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What do you mean by "modified"? Just saying it was "modified" means nothing in a vaccuum. It's possible that you can modify it, but the only thing we usually do to those aluminum OEM BOVs is crush them. Then, they hold more, but exactly how much is not known too well, and it's not adjustable, so you can expect compressor surge.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 12:37 PM
  #17  
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I been using a type S for about a year now @25psi. No problems yet.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 12:48 PM
  #18  
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crushed 1g, holds the boost i,m running with no problem(21 tappering to around 19 at redline) and absolutely no flutter or comp. surge whatsoever
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 01:08 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Danny23
crushed 1g, holds the boost i,m running with no problem(21 tappering to around 19 at redline) and absolutely no flutter or comp. surge whatsoever
Why would you have a crushed 1g on the IX when that's not as good as the one that came stock?

Is it a BR350?
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 01:24 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Warrtalon
What do you mean by "modified"? Just saying it was "modified" means nothing in a vaccuum. It's possible that you can modify it, but the only thing we usually do to those aluminum OEM BOVs is crush them. Then, they hold more, but exactly how much is not known too well, and it's not adjustable, so you can expect compressor surge.
Disregaurd

Last edited by GgreyEVOIX; Feb 28, 2006 at 12:29 PM.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 02:34 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Danny23
crushed 1g, holds the boost i,m running with no problem(21 tappering to around 19 at redline) and absolutely no flutter or comp. surge whatsoever
stock bypass valve on the IX olds boost the same, mine is 22 tappering to 19.5 at redline. i dont see y u changed
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 04:38 PM
  #22  
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I pressure tested my APS valve up to 27psi and no leaks. I didn't go any further since I probably wasn't going to go above that.....right now at least

Been super happy with the APS valve.

Originally Posted by Evo05lution
if i remember correctly i heard that the APS holds up to about 26psi. If you are all about the bells and whistles then get the APS Bov, if not then get the Forge RS D/V, its the best Bov for the money hands down...
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 05:11 PM
  #23  
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to be more specific on the mods that i am doing, i am getting:

1) AMS catback exhaust
2)K&N air intake
3)Greddy profec bspec-ii
4)Apexi AFC-II
5)272 cams??

Ams claims to have power gains between 365whp-375whp. so, i see a lot of people are really likin the forge rs dv or the aps bov.i recently read a little bit about the greddy type-rs. so now the question is, out of those three which would you buy in my situation?
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 05:39 PM
  #24  
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Forged RS DV
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 06:05 PM
  #25  
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From: FAAAR FAAAR AWAAY :)
Interesting story. I had my HKS BOV and after pressure testing it at 30PSI it was leaking bad, so I through stock POS Ghetto BOV and It would hold fine @ 25-26 on Race gas. I am not saying its a good unit. It just worked for me for a while.

Piece

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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 07:07 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by PKEVO8
to be more specific on the mods that i am doing, i am getting:

1) AMS catback exhaust
2)K&N air intake
3)Greddy profec bspec-ii
4)Apexi AFC-II
5)272 cams??

Ams claims to have power gains between 365whp-375whp. so, i see a lot of people are really likin the forge rs dv or the aps bov.i recently read a little bit about the greddy type-rs. so now the question is, out of those three which would you buy in my situation?
I see you are going with AMS stg 1 + cams. Their stage 1 is very incomplete and the power claims ARE NOT TO THE WHEELS. Those are ESTIMATED CRANK NUMBERS, and they are not factual at all. Please do not get that setup; you will regret it. Please look at the mods in the package in my sig. I'm not saying you have to go through Buschur or buy the exact parts or even use the same tuner, but please...please...at least get the same combination of mods. You by no means want a cat-back with EBC and SAFC. That would just make me cringe.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 10:57 PM
  #27  
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From: dartmouth
warr, what do u disagree with more though, the ebc, or the s-afc, considering that is what u used from the start to tune ur car?
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 11:19 PM
  #28  
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I disagree more with the SAFC. EBCs are expensive, but they can work if setup properly, although that can be difficult. I only used the SAFC on my car, because I already had an old version leftover from my DSM days. I installed it so that I didn't have to spend any money to hit 12s and so that I could remove it within minutes when going to the dealership. The flash is superior, especially if someone is choosing which one to spend money on...
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 11:24 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Warrtalon
I see you are going with AMS stg 1 + cams. Their stage 1 is very incomplete and the power claims ARE NOT TO THE WHEELS. Those are ESTIMATED CRANK NUMBERS, and they are not factual at all. Please do not get that setup; you will regret it. Please look at the mods in the package in my sig. I'm not saying you have to go through Buschur or buy the exact parts or even use the same tuner, but please...please...at least get the same combination of mods. You by no means want a cat-back with EBC and SAFC. That would just make me cringe.

Warrtalon are you seriously getting paid to preech your mods to everybody that joins evom? It's really ****ing annoying.

NOT EVERYONE WANTS YOUR MODS! Give it a rest...
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 11:25 PM
  #30  
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From: dartmouth
im not gonna disagree that a flash is far superior than an s-afc, i just was curious which of the two u disliked more, the s-afc, or the ebc. I agree with you also then! thanks for the clarification.
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