Doc, I think you're a hypochondriac...

 

Why is everyone so worried about there rod bearings. Sh*t happens, keep the oil changed every 3k and use the correct oil(mobil 10w 30 syntec) and everything will be just fine.
How many of these engines are massed produced every year? There are going to be a hand full that will break. Look at the new FSI VW engines, GLi, and the new GTi engines. When I was in class afew weeks ago, several guys were talking about how they are spinning rod bearings. Luckly I am yet to see one at my shop.
Look at the R32 (still tring to sell) the intermediate shaft gear the runs the cams, was made to soft and the teeth wear away. When the teeth are gone the engine will jump time and the car gets a new 13k engine.
At any rate sh*t happens, so live with it
If rod bearing are the only problems with mitsu, you should see the problems we have with vw's engines. 1.8t has to be the worst engine ever made. Cam adjuster problems, oil pumps, oil leaks from every possible gasket, water pumps break and then car overheats, engine lites are always on. the list go on. Way to many VW problems to list

 

I don't think so, and the voices in my head agree with me!!

 

check out http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_engines.html.

ams also does oil tests.

 

I am just concerned that when the oil pump balance shaft was out of phase, the vibrations busted alot of brackets, and shredded 4 serpintine belts!! the vibration was so bad, I could feel it thru the bolts in my seat, EVERYTIME at 3500-4K rpm. I fixed the problem, and am feeling the vibrations thru the seat again!!! I was wondering if the vibrations messed something up. if I should change the balance shaft, or get the balance shaft elimination kit, and while They are in there, have them change the bearings as well.

I drove with this vibration for 4K miles, took it for a weekend track day etc... couldn't be good vibrating and shaking everything apart. Once the balance shaft issue started, I increased the wear of my motor faster then a car who had it in phase. That is all I am saying!

 

I understand that and respect your feelings. But for the guys that spin bearing for no apparant reason, they need to take what I am saying into consideration.

 

I took what you said into consideration! I appreciate your response. Thanks.

 

I don't understand you point. Are you saying that Evo owners should just accept the fact that this is happening and spend tons of cash fixing?

I, for one, would like to get the firm answer to all evo owners so we can make the proper adjustment to our driving style or maintenance to ensure that we can enjoy our cars to the fullest without having to spend 10k to put it back together. If it is infact the rod bolts then that is a resonably easy fix (compared to replacing a bottom end) so there is some sort of assurance and comfort when driving the car like it was intended.

BTW - I just bought a '03 1.8t A4. Could you PM me some things I should look out for? I bought the extended warrantee from Audi but I would like to know what I should be aware of.

 

I say if they fail, which as more and more evos get up in miles, it would be a good idea to PREVENT the rod bearings from spinning, by replacing them. I know it is hard to do with the stretching of the rodbolts etc... and if done wrong, it can go terribly wrong!! I think it just makes sence to replace them at "X" miles. I will do it, and report back condition of the "old ones" my condition is different than most, as I was driving with the Balance shaft the way it was. Later.

 

I think hes basically saying something that I feel as well. If you take any engine, including the 4g63, there are going to be some design related issues that create weak points. Perhaps for out cars, its some of the fasteners used. Those types of things can be fixed when it becomes appropriate to do so, such as head studs.

There are other problems, perhaps a mismatched piston ring or mismatched bearing size, etc that can find their way into engines. These are non-design related....a factory defect. And if you have something like this, basically, there is no real way to tell you have one of these problems prior to any dammage unless prior you do a total tear down and inspection (in which you may or may not find a problem that may or may not be there). The best thing you can do is just do regular maintenance and take a few extra steps to ensure you car is running properly, such as oil analysis, plug inspection, compressions and/or leakdown checks once in a while, etc. Some defects are more common than others which can be documented. However, most of the time, its simply a game of russian roulette.

If the factory worker at mitsu accidentally put a larger piston instead of a smaller piston in cyl #2 for example, the only "driving style" change you can do to avoid accerlated wear is to not drive the car at all....see what im saying?

You should only worry about what you can control. And you cant control, predict or prevent all engine failures. Do regualr oil changes, dont over rev, over heat or generally beat on your motor, and do simple diagnostic checks when appropriate. Take the necessary upgrade recommendations from experienced tuners if you plan to modify your powertrain. If you have a good engine and you do all this, your engine will stay in one piece.

 

I think your kinda on the right track, but saying that is like saying...everyone needs to change their brake pads at "x" miles.....well....that may or may not be true.

Smokedmustang- If I were in your situation I would have my engine inspected by a true 4g63 professional. Maybe you need new bearings, maybe you need other things, maybe you need nothing. But I think just sort of guessing and winging it is a bad idea. And while that goes against some peoples do-it-yourself/decide-for-yourself attitude, I think its worth it.

 

Well I have had several built motors in the honda world, normally what I would do is find a reputable machine shop, make sure piston to wall clearance and ring gap is on the dime according to type of motor build and manufacturer specs, Get all 4 rods and pistons, make then equal weight, you will be surprised on the difference in weight on some aftermarket rods, and also make sure crank is balanced. Does not have to be lightened or anything just make sure it is balanced. All this with the rod stroke ratio of a 2.0 liter evo will greatly reduce motor vibrations, which in return are much easier on the bearings.

 

here are some decent links to understanding sparkplugs and how to read them..

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...overviewp2.asp
http://www.buckeye-illinois.com/sparkplugs.htm
http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Sp...s_catalog.html

 

I know a lot of the European tuners recommend conrod bolts pretty early in the upgrade process. I'm pretty sure both Xtreme and Norris do. They have been tuning Evo's longer than anyone in the US has.

I don't know what the DSM guys recommend maybe Buschur or someone could chime in on this.

Mchuang, I think he is trying to avoid having to rebuild the engine with this.

 

Points well taken! Thanks for the help.