smokedmustang

iTrader: (7)

Not that it has happened to me, but I am reading alot more on this site of this happening. I have had my oil pump balance shaft out of sync 180 degrees, and it vibrated my butt thru the bolts in my seat!!! It was like I was re-entering the earths atmosphere at 3500-4500RPM. This balance shaft issue was caused when the cams were installed, or the timing belt was changed.

Anyway, to prevent cavaties, we brush our teeth. To prevent spun bearings, we....what? anything preventitive to do? change them regardless at 50K miles? get rod bolts instead? change both? any recommendations on this? Is there a stronger/longer lasting bearing out there?


Is there a "tell tale" sign that your bearings are bad, and or are going bad? anything we can detect/hear/feel before we break the bank?

Since my oilpump balance shaft was off for 4K miles, someone mentioned it probably weakened my bearings. is it possible/probable? should I change them?

I feel for all of you who this happened to, and any advice you can give us (who this hasn't happened yet) would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
All of us with our "bearings straight"

gunzo

iTrader: (2)

My feel on this is

type of oil used, quality and frequency of change ..

Balance probably plays a part .. hey .. just check your old oil filter .. there's always signs before failure .. Guess that's something we always disregard when changing oil (check the filter for health!)

smokedmustang

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the tip gunzo. by checking the oil filter, you mean saw it in half? or tip it and dump stuff out.

LIFER

iTrader: (16)

Change your oil every 2k miles!! And the stock evo rod bolts are weak witch could cause the bearings to spin.

hotrod2448

They make a tool to cut oil filters so you don't get the shavings from cutting it in the filter and negate learning anything. It looks like a large brake line cutter.

I think strain on the motor plays a large part in this. Obviously extended high RPM use increases the chances of yielding a conrod bolt and I'm sure extremely high horsepower levels have the same effect on main bolts. I'm sure that these factors play a roll in quite a few of the spun bearing situations we have seen. I don't doubt there have been a few freak problem but for the most part I think the old 4G63 is pretty tough and reliable.

gunzo

iTrader: (2)

Don't think you need to cut .. the oil flows such that anything that is trapped is in the big hole .. so just tip it tap it and see what comes out (hopefully nothing) ..

Then again .. what do I know !!

smokedmustang

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the input, and hello again hotrod!!! I was told that the MOBIL1 should NOT be changed but every 8K miles or so because of the detergents. too frequent changes, will tear your motor apart!!

I also just read that DONT BUY MOBIL1. cant remember why, will go look it up and post it here. its because the label on the back of the bottle (Certificate) has been removed because of refinement issues, or putting some junk in there. I will keep you posted. Thanks for the replies.

If I do the con rod bolts, and change the bearings, can this be done with just dropping the oil pan?

I think I should get the balanceshaft eliminator kit also. Do you reccommend that?

Thanks again.

mchuang

iTrader: (11)

Balance does not probably play a part it is a big part, Vibration definetly kills bearings, that is why it is not a good idea to put an aftermarket aluminum crank pulley on. It does save weight, but it has no dampening effect like the stock pulley.

smokedmustang

iTrader: (7)

Maybe I am about to blow up!! I feel like the boost is getting up there too quickly, not a clutch issue for sure. and it appeared like the plugs have a shiny part on the "L" shaped part. not sure if it is or not, will pull plugs today. could the bolts be stretching causing ever so slight contact with the plugs? is that even possible?

mchuang

iTrader: (11)

Do the plugs show any speckles, from detonation.. I doubt the piston is touching the sparkplug, unless your pistons are not dished, plus if it touched slightly as you say you would notice the gap change slightly or close, then you would probably have bad idle or the car would die.

smokedmustang

iTrader: (7)

I didn't see any speckles of detonation. but then again, what does a speckle look like? On occasion, my oil dipstick pops out, and the valve benind the valvecover pops off, I will pull the plugs, take a picture, and measure the gaps.

I am still having the misfire issue, and when I checked the plugs, the gaps were from passenger side to drivers side were: 26/26/26/30. I re-gapped the plugs, and the misfire went away for about 50 miles, then returend. It still sounds like the video post I made a month ago. 22 psi of boost is all I get out of it. if I am on the highway, or in a taller gear that I should be, and quickly (NOT STOMP) on the gas, once the boost hits 22psi, it is like I am shooting ducks!! As in the video. ONLY happens when boost is at or around 22 psi!

ashumo

iTrader: (6)

send in samples of your oil for an analysis. this should give you an idea of what metals and quantities are in your oil. thats the only way your going to find out if bearings are going or about to go. bearing failure is usually the result of an oil problem. from most wiped bearings ive seen its happened really fast, wasnt a slow process. oil flow restricted, bearing hot, bearing toast.

silverghost

iTrader: (15)

I would suggest getting oil analysis done. It can tell you if your bearings have taken a hit from the doubled vibration incurred by the balance shaft situation. Your bearings have different layers to them. If there has been excessive erosion of the thin oil retenstion babbit layer you will see an increase in the copper in your oil. Oil analysis should be able to predict bearing failure well ahead of a failure from normal wear and tear.
It will not predict engine failure from short term gross abuse like turning the boost up to 30 PSI that breaks something like a rod or the poor tune that causes detonation and breaks a pistion on that 140 MPH freeway blast on your way home from the tuner.

smokedmustang

iTrader: (7)

Great info guys!!! where would I get the oil analyzed? would it be just easier to change them? when I do the rod-bolts? how about the benefits of using the balance shaft elimination kit?

Thanks again for your advice!

ashumo

iTrader: (6)

might try these guys or look around for someone more local to you.

http://www.dysonanalysis.com/pages/1/index.htm

rod bolts...id say if your doing them you could use plastigauge to measure your clearences, and you can get a good look at your bearing surfaces.