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My solution for Potential boom boom

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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 08:46 AM
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My solution for Potential boom boom

First i would like to start by say that any help, opinions, or comments are welcom and apriciated. Also I am no mechanic, nor did i go to school for engineering, this is just what i think i need to do to prevent my engine from blowing.

I have a 2003 Evo VIII with 46,000 miles on her.

Mods: DC catless down pipe
HKS carbon ti
HKS rs suction intake
Walbro fuel pump
JDM MR diverter valve
Logic performance intercooler piping (lower, and upper)
Hyper flow intercooler
Halman manual boost controler set to 21 psi on 93 oct
Defi boost guage
Dyno Flash mail in flash, but drove to pruven to get it done by al

While my car was in stock form, i took it to the drag strip and ran it. My fastes time was a 14.12, I know thats pretty slow. lol Then at aprox. 31,000 miles I started modding it, and got it flashed fight away. Also just so there is no mis- understanding, Al did a great job, was very helpful, professional, and acceptive to my many questions, and i felt a major improvment comapared to stock. I would definatley recomend him to anybody thinking of getting flashed. At aprox. 32,000 mile i cahnged my clutch to an exedy twin. I still take to the track and my fastes time now is a 12.78, ( i know its preety slow) lol. But anyway, i cant complain about anything becuase i have never had any bad issues with the car, i love it and hope to have her forever. I know some people have had many problems, but that isnt so in my case.

Now that we got some backround info out the way I'll go into my issue. I have read about a few evos blowing up there engines. Now like i said before i am no mechanic but from what i read it seems that the problem for the most part was the rod bearing, and bolts possibly stretching.

The symptoms was a noise comming from the driver side engine compartment, kindda like a ticking. You can hear it at idel, but once the revs go up, the noise seems to go away. Some thaught it was comming from the dash. Also i can recall one member saying they had metal shavings in the oil. I have both of these signs and am in the process of getting my oil analized. I know metal shavings is a no no.

My question is should I get my bottom end checked out too. And while they do that, replace my rod bearing and bolts. I know cosworth makes replacments, http://www.titanmotorsports.com/cosworthrod.html, or should i go with ARP, or stock? If so, where can i buy the parts. I dont wanna get the block built, dont have that much money, but im looking for a solution. if that seems to be it, then i'll start saving.

I know this is a long post but i wanna make sure i gave all the info possible. Any help is appriciated.
thanks
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 08:57 AM
  #2  
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Have a mechanic look at the rod bearings. If you catch it early you won't have to replace the entire motor and transmission like I do
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 09:36 AM
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From: 2003 Evo VIII - Silver
Originally Posted by evocanival
First i would like to start by say that any help, opinions, or comments are welcom and apriciated. Also I am no mechanic, nor did i go to school for engineering, this is just what i think i need to do to prevent my engine from blowing.

I have a 2003 Evo VIII with 46,000 miles on her.

Mods: DC catless down pipe
HKS carbon ti
HKS rs suction intake
Walbro fuel pump
JDM MR diverter valve
Logic performance intercooler piping (lower, and upper)
Hyper flow intercooler
Halman manual boost controler set to 21 psi on 93 oct
Defi boost guage
Dyno Flash mail in flash, but drove to pruven to get it done by al

While my car was in stock form, i took it to the drag strip and ran it. My fastes time was a 14.12, I know thats pretty slow. lol Then at aprox. 31,000 miles I started modding it, and got it flashed fight away. Also just so there is no mis- understanding, Al did a great job, was very helpful, professional, and acceptive to my many questions, and i felt a major improvment comapared to stock. I would definatley recomend him to anybody thinking of getting flashed. At aprox. 32,000 mile i cahnged my clutch to an exedy twin. I still take to the track and my fastes time now is a 12.78, ( i know its preety slow) lol. But anyway, i cant complain about anything becuase i have never had any bad issues with the car, i love it and hope to have her forever. I know some people have had many problems, but that isnt so in my case.

Now that we got some backround info out the way I'll go into my issue. I have read about a few evos blowing up there engines. Now like i said before i am no mechanic but from what i read it seems that the problem for the most part was the rod bearing, and bolts possibly stretching.

The symptoms was a noise comming from the driver side engine compartment, kindda like a ticking. You can hear it at idel, but once the revs go up, the noise seems to go away. Some thaught it was comming from the dash. Also i can recall one member saying they had metal shavings in the oil. I have both of these signs and am in the process of getting my oil analized. I know metal shavings is a no no.

My question is should I get my bottom end checked out too. And while they do that, replace my rod bearing and bolts. I know cosworth makes replacments, http://www.titanmotorsports.com/cosworthrod.html, or should i go with ARP, or stock? If so, where can i buy the parts. I dont wanna get the block built, dont have that much money, but im looking for a solution. if that seems to be it, then i'll start saving.

I know this is a long post but i wanna make sure i gave all the info possible. Any help is appriciated.
thanks
You may have just a ticking lifter OR something worse

Generally IF its a rod bearing it gets much worse fast

However, a set of ARP rod bolts and a look at the rod bearings is a great idea and well worth the small investment
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 09:49 AM
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Thanks for the responses. Al do u know if Pruven will look at rod bearings for me. the reason i ask is cause i know u use there dyno facility.

Again, thanks
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 09:53 AM
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From: thrillville, IL
I have a funny tick sound coming from my coin collector on the left side of the steering wheel. It started right when I hooked up my forge bc. It starts at about 2k rpm through 3500, every gear, every time.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 11:01 AM
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Oh great not more engine problems
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 11:04 AM
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From: where the 2005 World Series Champions play
Originally Posted by lexat20
I have a funny tick sound coming from my coin collector on the left side of the steering wheel. It started right when I hooked up my forge bc. It starts at about 2k rpm through 3500, every gear, every time.
gets worse when its colder? only when turbo is spooling?
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 01:48 PM
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bump
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 04:08 PM
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From: Knoxville TN
I would get that looked at ASAP.... it would be ALOT cheaper to have it towed and replaced the bolts(or whatevers wrong with it) than to replace a blown motor. good luck with you problem man, its nice to hear some finally acting on the "weird ticking noise from their dash." i hope you get everything straitened out...... keep us updated with what the problem is.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 06:55 PM
  #10  
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^ thanks man, i definately will
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 08:34 PM
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Dude, your car is so done. Welcome to the club!

There's been lot of these post lately, maybe I should start a myspace group for spun rod bearings and ticking noises in the engine compartment =). Anyways, I wish you the best of luck with your car. Hopefully you caught it before major work needs to be done.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 08:44 PM
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AHHH u guys are scaring me with all these posts. I have a constint ticking at idle but always thought it was normal and ignored it. Now u guys have to scare since if it is something wrong im to broke to pay for repairs till summer.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 08:55 PM
  #13  
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constant ticking on idle is normal, every evo has it, no need to worry

Last edited by alloyic_rs; Mar 7, 2006 at 08:58 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 09:13 PM
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From: 2003 Evo VIII - Silver
Originally Posted by evocanival
Thanks for the responses. Al do u know if Pruven will look at rod bearings for me. the reason i ask is cause i know u use there dyno facility.

Again, thanks
yes - I think you are looking at 2 3- hours to put it on a lift and remove the oil pan and inspect

They have all the evo rod bearings in stock in case one looks tired


As set of ARP rod bolts is s good idea at the same time
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Old Mar 8, 2006 | 04:53 AM
  #15  
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yes - I think you are looking at 2 3- hours to put it on a lift and remove the oil pan and inspect

They have all the evo rod bearings in stock in case one looks tired


As set of ARP rod bolts is s good idea at the same time

Thanks again Al, I'll give em a call and see when i can set an appoint ment with them.
Thanks again for all the replies from everyone else, ill keep on posting updates.
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