Wanted to pick on the minds and see what the thoughts are. I have been noticing that on tight turns in the parking lot, the rear inside wheel of the turn locks and skips intermittently. Now typically one would think that it is a bad rear diff BUT with a bad center diff, does it display similar symptoms? Also, when you let it coast to a stop while in a turn, you can feel the car physicaly slowing down from the lock and skip routine from the inside wheel. Once it comes to a full stop, it is very hard to push forward when you are out of the car even when you turn the wheels straight again BUT if you were just going straight and coasted to a stop, it wont be hard to push.

Also, once the car is coasted to a stop from a turn, I can move it again under its own power, it is just hard to push by hand.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Alfred

 

I had a something similar hapen to me in another car with a lsd rear end , it was the wrong fluid (non LSD fluid) . It would do the "locks and skips intermittently" thing your talking about .

So if you rear end fluid has just been change its prob not the right fluid .

If you never changed it , its prob about time .

I would recomend OEM Mitsubishi daniaqueen fluid or equivalent (if there is such a thing) .

This should be a good starting place .

 

^ +1 agreed.

I had almost the same thing happen on my Evo (rear wheels would groan in low-speed, tight turns). Changing the rear-diff fluid fixed it. However changing with a non- fluid had the rear diff acting up again within 3000 miles. I finally put the diaqueen fluid back into the rear diff and it has been fine ever since.

l8r)

 

When my rear diff was bad, it was making a light clunking/clicking noise when turning at low speeds. This was ONLY after the car was sufficiently warmed up. I stood outside the car and had someone slowly drive it in a cirlce. That is where it was most noticeable.

 

Did you have it fixed under warranty?

 

Hmmm, so it only happens when yours is warm? Now question is, why does it only happen when it is warm and not cold? Also, did you have the dealer replace it? Did changing the fluid help it any.

On mine, I only use OEM fluids and it was changed probably less than 4000 miles ago. Hmmmm, seems like I might have a bad diff. Its just werid how it would get to that. Any one else have any ideas? Some people are suggesting that I try redline diff oil 75-90 to see if it solves the problem.

Alfred

 

Also, with the clunking, was it like the inside tire was gripping and slipping OR was it just noise from the diff?

Thanks

Alfred

 

I would try changing the fluid before attempting to get the diff replaced. If you talk to your dealer, that's the first thing they will probably do anyways.

I also would not use the redline stuff and make really sure that when you put the new fluid in to top it off all they way to the top.

l8r)

 

Not trying to be a smart a$s , but did you do the fluid change or did a dealer do it for you ?

I had a Dealer swear they didnt put pennzoil syncromesh in my T-case "My tech has been doing this for 30 years he wouldnt mess up" but 250miles later I had a WWII siren under my car "AKA" f-ed t-case (I dont trush dealerships/techs).

Just try a fluid change its quick , and it will take out that variable .

 

Just changed fluid. Fluid came out dark silver and has metallic particles in it. Filled fluid again and still same symptoms. Looks like I do need a rear diff. This is a suprise to me since I havent heard much problems with our diffs.

Now, does a failing center diff also cause problems when turning? Since the front/rear bias is different while turning? But then, why is the problem only limited to the rear wheels? I think I do have a bad diff then.

Thanks again for the inputs.

Alfred

 

just for the heck of it swap out the front dif fluid too.

 

having the same problem with mine, my cars got 30,000 miles, i've changed the fluid twice still no helping the problem. Like what was said, acts fine when it's cold, then when it warms up, extreme lsd chatter and clunking, gona buy a cusco diff soon, just so so much $$$$

 

Oddly enough, there was nothing wrong with my original diff. When trying to diganose a transfer case issue, the dealership replaced my driveshaft, then the rear diff. all under warranty. When they finally realized it was the TC (I told them this from day 1), they replaced the TC under warranty as well. The BRAND NEW rear diff they put it was bad, so they ended up putting my original diff back in.

 

It felt like things were binding up a little. I couldnt quite tell where. I noticed when turning (after getting the car good and warmed up) that when turning it felt like the back end was dragging a bit. Good luck.

 

Was it like you can coast the car, turn the wheel, and feel the rear inside wheel bind up, and then when you straighten it, it feels normal? What I mean is I can make the car bind, once I crank the wheel while coasting BUT when I straighten it again, it will be okay. I can make it bind, unbind, bind by just cranking the steering wheel. The more I think of it, the more I think the cetner diff might be involved.

Alfred