stock intake is good enough but man that's a long a$$ thread

 

Besides the intake needing a tune to fix the MAF problem (Which it DOES need)

An aftermarket intake sucks in hot engine air, the stock intake sucks in cool, fresh air.
Guess what one the engine would rather have???

 

Obviously... if that's the case then adding more fuel would be beneficial to reduce knock from the hotter intake air, but you can also make your own cold air ducting as I did with my DSM. The thing is having a cold air duct does not make a huge difference when ambient temps are around 75 deg or lower. I've done back to back datalogs monitoring timing advance and it wasn't a big deal w/ or w/o the cold air duct unlesss it is really hot outside.

Anyways, like I said previously I am looking to get an Evo soon and would like to know what the "MAF problem" is and what makes the Evo MAF so different from DSMs. If someone could point me to a thread explaining the MAF problem that would be great. As an engineer who understands a little something about MAFs, I need a better answer than "it just does."

 

so... which tune is there to fix which problem that the maf has??? glad you were so specific... or was it just what you heard... cuz as far as i know... it doesn't trouble my maf... but maybe my maf isn't as much of a lil ***** as yours. hah... i have maf superiority... this makes so much ****in' sense.

oooooh aftermarket intake sucks in hot air... mmhmm... except when your car is moving... cuz then there is a positve pressure differential in the front of your car that invariably carries out hot and and puts cold air into the engine bay.

guess what? you still haven't told me how the intake ****ed up the maf signal or how the **** up even shows itself... how how how???

 

lol trinydex I'm with you on this one, I'd like to know as well

This whole intake screwing up maf readings doesn't make sense from the physical standpoint of how a karmen vortex maf works, but hey I'm always open to weird stuff that might occur.

 

if it makes your car stall... if it makes your car run like crap... if you lose power everywhere SOLELY because of it and you have it installed DAMN RIGHT, then.... get a tune... fix yer intake blues. but if not...... i don't understand.

how many people here have tunes for their intakes? how many experienced the problems i just cited? how many attribute them irrefuteably to the intake? and which intakes are those so i can tell people to not buy them.

 

I thought that the evo needed a tune for most engine mods...

 

A intake won't make your car stall or anything and shouldn't affect drivability.
But it does affect saftey. Installing an intake usually makes your car run pretty lean.
Lean = Power at the cost of saftey. This guy I know is a perfect example.

When Shiv came to tune his car baselines around 325ish, with a HKS intake. But his AFRs were in the mid 12s. When Shiv was done tuning his car the power had dropped to like 318ish but the AFRs were stable in the low 11s.

 

im gonna have to go with the threadmaker as well, how does getting the car tuned get more power from an intake? after installing my injen intake, i didnt exactly feel the biggest increase but i did hear a difference and what not. can someone who knows for sure fill us in? and really i dont believe the crap about a drop in filter producing more power in these cars. friend of mine put one in the other day and he told me he didnt feel crap.

 

this is my point.... i wonder why you thot that... prolly cuz everyone is cramming it down your throat...

 

wtfbbqsauce!>?

 

just for reference.

i have a gt35r car. the car ran/idled fine 2 days ago when i had the stock airbox on and the BOV directly in the intake(like stock). i put a buschur maf pipe and k&n on it and the car will not idle warm...and it DEFINETLY won't let me take it out of gear and coast to a redlight without feathering the throttle.

and yes, its installed 100% correctly.

 

on a side note, on these piggybacks, how can we remedy the idle and stalling problems within a tune? i don't believe there is any closed loop tuning.

 

i agree that intakes are not needed on stock/close to stock evos. they just aren't worth it. but i do think there is a point that there is some benefit. also. if you have a wideband and a programmable ecu (standalone, piggyback), then why can't you just tune it yourself? datalog your afr's before you put it on to get an idea of what they are. put the intake on. datalog the new values. compare them. see where you need to fix the fuel curve. tweak it. datalog again to compare the new values to the preintake values. repeat till desired afr curve is there. doesn't this make sense?