well i was putting the stock wheels and tires on tonight on the car and got a little tightening happy and ended up snapping one of the rear hub studs...ok well i got the broke stud out since it was broke in half.......my question is...how would I put a regular unbroke one back in? the dust shield and rear emergency brake stuff is in the way.



it says to use the space where the spring retainer is??

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=149698

 

thats nice, the front isnt bad , just confused about the rear.

 

The rear hub is very similar to the fronts. You should be able to pull the hub without tearing apart the suspension if clearance is an issue.

 

im going to call my local dealership in the morning...to see if they can get the car in to pop in a new one...ive already done the work of taking the snapped one out for them.

How long do you guys think it would take a dealership to pop a new one in place? also, do u think they will stock the new studs and maybe also stock lugnuts as one has the peice of stud stuck in it.

 

It shouldn't take more than an hour. My local dealer had to special order lug nuts for me.

 

that sucks...but a lugnut shouldnt be a big deal as im sure i can get one temporarily....but did they have the stud in stock?

 

just hammer out the old and impact in the new with a washer/spacer. its a knurl fit. rear brake drums look like our escort rear brakes.

 

old one is out, new one I dont have yet....and its easier to take one out that is half the size than to put one in that is regular size.

 

Take the wheel and tire off. Remove the rear caliper. Remove the two top radiator support bolts. Place radiator supprt bolts into holes in the rear rotor and tighten to help break it away from the hub. Replace the radiator support bolts. Carefully Disassemble the watchlike inner rear drum mechanism and note how it goes back together. If you are lucky and there is any thread left on the broken lug, thread a junk nut onto it, if not you may have to use some type of punch

** Note: you can possibly damage your wheel bearing from repeated shock.** You can quickly get the stud out with a couple well-placed hits from a mini-sledge but just realize this is a possibility. Otherwise, you will have to pull out the axel i believe.

Once the stud is out, push the new one in making sure to align the splines. Slip a couple washers over it and tighten it down until it is flush with the back. Remember to clean the rotor inside and out with brake cleaner and enjoy. It may be prudent to check the lug after a few miles to make sure it hasn't pulled itself further in and thus loosened its grip on your wheel. If so, tighten it (duh). Hope this helps, i wish i had known at the time.

 

you dont need to disassemble anything..it happened to me once too...
but i figured it out how to go around how not to disassemble the dust shield and ebrake. If you already taken out the broken stud( I used a small hammer..carefully hitting it....it took me while cause I didnt want to damage the bearing) and what I did was I turned the wheel
until i get a clearance from the dust plate and ebrake. there is an angle which you can fit your new stud in....

 

I just replaced the passenger side front and back hub/bearing assy. Took about 1 hour for both. very easy, don't pay someone to do it for you.

Tools you will need:
1. 32mm "deep" socket(impact gun socket is stronger)
2. 17 or 19mm socket (i can't remember off the top of my head, maybe both)
3. 17 or 19mm wrench (" ")
4. Pliers
5. Hammer
6. TQ wrech good for at least 180ft lbs of tq
7. Hollow breaker bar 12in or a little more to fit over the handle of the ratchet. Not to big or it won't fit where you want it to.
8. Zip ties
9. PB Blaster or Liquid wrench. PB Blaster is better!

First start by taking out the Cotter Pin on the end of the axle. Use the pliers.

Second put the 32mm socket on that TQ wrench and get that BIG center nut off. Make sure you put the ebrake on good or even better have someone stomp the brakes. I say even better because you don't want to stretch your ebrake cables because you need some stopping power applied on those rear brakes.

Third is to unbolt(2 bolts) the caliper and zip tie it to your springs. Don't let it hang because you don't want to break the brake lines.

Forth, use the hammer to hit the "CENTER AREA" of the disk brake to crack it loose. DO NOT have the ebrake on or you won't get the brake disk off! The ebrake uses a drum design on the inside of the disk and it will be holding the disk on! DO NOT hit on the area of the disk that the pads grab to, hit on the center area and DO NOT hit super hard!!

Fifth is to get those 4 bolts off the backside of the hub assy. Some of the bolts are a little tricky to get to, use your head and get creative with that wrench, ratchet/socket, breaker bar, and hammer(if needed to break any of them loose and same with the breaker bar). *Don't forget you have PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench to help you with that.

Do what you gotta do with the stud and reassemble everything.

*Torque Specs.
1. Caliper = 80ft lbs
2. Center 32mm nut = 167ft lbs

The "stealership" isn't going to do anything different/special to get the job done. Only magic they're going to perform is taking butt loads of $$ from you, and they'll probably f**k something up while doing it. lolol

This shouldn't take more than one hour for your first time.

Good luck bro!

 

I'm not trying to cause any trouble here but your instructions are horrible. What are you talking about radiator support bolts for? What is the need to disassemble the rear drum brakes? Pull out the axle? Holy freaking macaroni batman!!

 

dealership had both parts in stock....i just had them do it while i was there.