everytime i shift into 4th gear it grinds. It started up out of the blue on day, and I hadn't been giving the car a hard time at all.

i was thinking maybe the clutch disc was worn, or that maybe i had a bent shifter cable or something? anyone run into a similar problem? it doesnt matter how fast or slow or what rpm you try to shift at, it still wants to grind a little bit

 

no it's probaly your syncros they make the gear grind happpen to me to until i got the exedy clutch and all new syncros, or a quick fix wich helps alot change the fluid royal purple or redline

 

sounds like your syncro is going, try penzoil syncromesh, that helps alot

 

You may have broken a syncro or something in order to have it happen all of a sudden. Also if you overheated the clutch and warped the surfaces, then it may need some adjustment to get full disengagement. Since it is a quick easy test, try adjusting the rod out a little at the pedal to see if it will shift better. If there is no improvement, you can probably excuse the clutch from being the issue.

 

Mine recently started at 4th and i just had 3rd and 5th done. and it only does it at 6 and 7 rpms. any ideas??????????

 

It is probably your synchros. If you still have warranty then just go to your dealership and problem solved.

 

Yup evolution, that is the sign of synchros.

 

If it is only happening at high rpms, from my experience it is probably an adjustment issue. On EVO's and many other vehicles, the air gap that seperates the discs must be increased in order to get full disengagement. Of course the way to do this is to adjust the release/engagement point of the clutch pedal higher.

For the same reason, drag race cars use a line-lock on the brake line at the line because the clutch will cause the car to creep at high rpms and drag then through the lights. For example, the car is fine below 5K but at 8K it creeps. Sure they could increase the air gap on their adjustable clutch setup too, but that slows the reaction time ever so slightly. Besides, they don't use the clutch going down the track with a clutchless shifting transmission like Lakewood, G-force or Jericho.

You can test for this two different ways. First method is to put the car in first, take off the brake, push the clutch in and rev it to 8K rpm. If the car creeps, you have an adjustment issue. Of course the thrust bearings don't like that kind of treatment so either don't do it or don't get carried away doing it for any length of time. The second method is to simply adjust the engagement point significantly higher (without preloading the rod) and see if it helps. If adjustment is the issue, then you will notice a big difference. If it is a tranny problem, then there will be no difference at all.

The problem I have seen over and over again is that people don't adjust the clutch pedal until they have shifting issues, and by then the syncros have already experienced more wear than they should have. On most clutches, once it is adjusted, you never have to adjust it again. But from my experience on the EVO, it may have to be adjusted a couple times because the flywheel and clutch are more sensitive to warpage. You may have already seen how thin the stock flywheel is and that is even more true with some of the aftermarket ones and especially true of aluminum flywheels with the thin "heat sheild". Even just a few thousanths of an inch of warpage will cause the clutch to require more travel to operate properly.