Drivetrain issues - Help!
Drivetrain issues - Help!
Hi guys.
I have a strange situation that I've never encountered before and would like some advice. Recently when starting the beast after an overnight I hear an initial clunk, like something is breaking loose, after I engage the clutch. Then it takes a larger amount of throttle to move until it warms up (couple miles or so). It occurs in both forward and reverse gears, and feels like something isn't properly lubricated.
My mechanic is telling me there's a couple u-joints that are built into the drivetrain without any zerts, and one is binding up. Even worse, you can't purchase just the joints, you need the whole driveshaft assembly. Is this something anyone has run across yet? My car has more turns than most (89K) so maybe this is a standard issue once the mileage gets up there.
I have a strange situation that I've never encountered before and would like some advice. Recently when starting the beast after an overnight I hear an initial clunk, like something is breaking loose, after I engage the clutch. Then it takes a larger amount of throttle to move until it warms up (couple miles or so). It occurs in both forward and reverse gears, and feels like something isn't properly lubricated.
My mechanic is telling me there's a couple u-joints that are built into the drivetrain without any zerts, and one is binding up. Even worse, you can't purchase just the joints, you need the whole driveshaft assembly. Is this something anyone has run across yet? My car has more turns than most (89K) so maybe this is a standard issue once the mileage gets up there.
I had this happen in an older car, a ford escort. It turned out one of the brakes was dragging.
If you hear a "clunk" it may be a brake pad sticking and breaking loose..
Here's a quick DIY diagnosis:
Jack the car in neutral with no handbrake (so all 4 wheels can rotate) but chock one of the ground wheels so it doesn't roll away.
Then, see if the lifted wheels move easily. You won't be able to get a full rotation, but you'll get some rotation.
If it binds at a wheel you may only need to rebuild a caliper and bleed with new fluid. If all 4 wheels move freely then you know the problem is definitely prior to that, somewhere along the drivetrain.
Edit- if you do need a driveshaft part, you should be able to find a salvaged OEM driveshaft/part from a salvage yard..
If you hear a "clunk" it may be a brake pad sticking and breaking loose..
Here's a quick DIY diagnosis:
Jack the car in neutral with no handbrake (so all 4 wheels can rotate) but chock one of the ground wheels so it doesn't roll away.
Then, see if the lifted wheels move easily. You won't be able to get a full rotation, but you'll get some rotation.
If it binds at a wheel you may only need to rebuild a caliper and bleed with new fluid. If all 4 wheels move freely then you know the problem is definitely prior to that, somewhere along the drivetrain.
Edit- if you do need a driveshaft part, you should be able to find a salvaged OEM driveshaft/part from a salvage yard..
Last edited by Wheelhaus; Apr 20, 2006 at 09:34 AM.
Interesting theory. We've actually had the car up on the lift and the wheels all moved well, it just appears that the rears don't move freely when cold. I'll check the brakes to make sure there isn't a sticky caliper just in case.
I find my brakes sticking like that a lot after the car sits overnight. This is especially true if they have been wet and/or it is below freezing outside. I can actually see where the brake pads had stuck to the rotors and left kind of a rusty outline.
After a mile or two, the roughness wears off and its no big deal. Ive never really felt it holding me back like youre describing, though.
After a mile or two, the roughness wears off and its no big deal. Ive never really felt it holding me back like youre describing, though.
Originally Posted by mndeerslayer
Hi guys.
I have a strange situation that I've never encountered before and would like some advice. Recently when starting the beast after an overnight I hear an initial clunk, like something is breaking loose, after I engage the clutch. Then it takes a larger amount of throttle to move until it warms up (couple miles or so). It occurs in both forward and reverse gears, and feels like something isn't properly lubricated.
My mechanic is telling me there's a couple u-joints that are built into the drivetrain without any zerts, and one is binding up. Even worse, you can't purchase just the joints, you need the whole driveshaft assembly. Is this something anyone has run across yet? My car has more turns than most (89K) so maybe this is a standard issue once the mileage gets up there.
I have a strange situation that I've never encountered before and would like some advice. Recently when starting the beast after an overnight I hear an initial clunk, like something is breaking loose, after I engage the clutch. Then it takes a larger amount of throttle to move until it warms up (couple miles or so). It occurs in both forward and reverse gears, and feels like something isn't properly lubricated.
My mechanic is telling me there's a couple u-joints that are built into the drivetrain without any zerts, and one is binding up. Even worse, you can't purchase just the joints, you need the whole driveshaft assembly. Is this something anyone has run across yet? My car has more turns than most (89K) so maybe this is a standard issue once the mileage gets up there.
Originally Posted by saw22
I find my brakes sticking like that a lot after the car sits overnight. This is especially true if they have been wet and/or it is below freezing outside. I can actually see where the brake pads had stuck to the rotors and left kind of a rusty outline.
After a mile or two, the roughness wears off and its no big deal. Ive never really felt it holding me back like youre describing, though.
After a mile or two, the roughness wears off and its no big deal. Ive never really felt it holding me back like youre describing, though.
Originally Posted by crazyevoRS
Check your diffs, that is a lot of mileage. What fluid do you use, and how often do you change it?
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That's a good point, if something geared or on bearings is dying you'll typically hear noise or feel vibrations first because there's so much stress placed on those parts.. If you're only feeling smooth resistance that disappears after you've driven a bit, it's most likely the brakes. If it was just bearings (driveshaft, wheels, diff output, whatever) that were dry and binding you'd at least hear something or feel something, and it would get worse (possibly smell) the more you drive and they'd eventially sieze..
You may only need to cycle the pistons. I used to service hydraulic brakes on mountain bikes that use DOT fluid, and they get SO dirty inside the caliper (brake dust, moisture, dirt, road grime, crud, etc) that the pistons don't retract well and drag the pads against the rotor. The only thing we had to do was clean the excess dirt and cycle them in and out.
If you know anyone with a brake caliper piston spreader it'd be relatively easy. Jack/remove the wheel and remove the pads. Spray some brake cleaner or wheel cleaner or something around the pistons to remove the grime. Have someone epress the pedal slowly to squeeze them out a bit more than normal. Push them all the way back into the caliper with the piston spreader. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir doesn't overflow from the fluid being pushed back into it. Cycle each caliper a few times and it may do the trick.
Also, I think the Evo brakes share the same handbrake mechanism as my 04 STi supposedly had... The rear hydraulic brake doesn't lock for the handbrake, it's actually a small drum brake inside the flat cylinder portion. You may only need to pull off the rear rotor and lube the mechanisms if there actually is a drum brake in there that's dragging.
You may only need to cycle the pistons. I used to service hydraulic brakes on mountain bikes that use DOT fluid, and they get SO dirty inside the caliper (brake dust, moisture, dirt, road grime, crud, etc) that the pistons don't retract well and drag the pads against the rotor. The only thing we had to do was clean the excess dirt and cycle them in and out.
If you know anyone with a brake caliper piston spreader it'd be relatively easy. Jack/remove the wheel and remove the pads. Spray some brake cleaner or wheel cleaner or something around the pistons to remove the grime. Have someone epress the pedal slowly to squeeze them out a bit more than normal. Push them all the way back into the caliper with the piston spreader. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir doesn't overflow from the fluid being pushed back into it. Cycle each caliper a few times and it may do the trick.
Also, I think the Evo brakes share the same handbrake mechanism as my 04 STi supposedly had... The rear hydraulic brake doesn't lock for the handbrake, it's actually a small drum brake inside the flat cylinder portion. You may only need to pull off the rear rotor and lube the mechanisms if there actually is a drum brake in there that's dragging.