Hey all,

firstly I searched

when doing the cam install and using the mitsu seallnt around the cam cover (in the required places of course) do you need to clean the surface squeeky clean (use of benzine etc) or do you need something like silicone spray first coated onto the head?

reason for asking is that I'm worried that if you make it super clean the sealant will stick like sh^t and you'll REALLY battle to get the cover off again.

Secondly. I've bought the works retainers and valve springs to be installed with their cams. now while all the info on this BB relates to cam installs I can't seem to find anything concerning the valve springs.

I'm not worried about the actual valve spring/retainer side of it, what I'm worried about is:

I'm using compressed air to hold the valves shut while I do the springs, but the motor is going to turn when I put pressure to that cylinder. now how do you either get the lower cover off the timing belt to make sure that the belt is on properly or how else would you know that all is good at the bottom when you are ready to put it all back?

thanks

Mike

 

If i had that many questions, i'd let a tuner do the work. Cam work is a job that needs exact perfection. Anything less is a blown motor.

 

you got me wrong

My main questions where:

Do you need to super clean the top of the head for the sealant - so it sticks super well or not?

I just want to gain access to view the TDC marks on the cam belt pullies by the crank. do you need to remove the lower cover and serpintine belt pully?

And any other advice from the forum would be nice.

Using the workshop manual, but that only details replacing the timing belt, not just allowing it to go slack to allow the motor to turn over to get the piston to BDC for the air to hold the valve up.

Mike

 

hey Mike howzit !

easy answer to this

1) you dont want it to be super clean - in fact you would want the sealant to prevent oil leaking out and not gumming anything up, the bead should only be about 2mm in width
2) with the cam pulley cover off - you can see the cam timing and with a light you can jiggle your way past the power steering pipe - remove the 12mm bolt holding it in place and then you can see the T and crank pulley very easily - noting else to remove

What cams you fitting ?


Hylton

 

What kind of sealant are you using, and where did you get, just curious, I am getting ready install a set of cams also.

Good Luck BTW.

 

This is nuts....Mike, I am sorry but if you have to ask about RTV products....I would leave the cam installation to a professional ESPECIALY if you have springs and retainers to do also....It is very difficult to do springs and retainers on a 4g63 with the head in situ.
evo3barboost...your post will not make any sense to most people...I get what you are saying but there is more to what he is asking than simply finding TDC
My 2c

 

I have removed valves with a spring compresser made like the one on VFAQ.com. I did it with the head off and that was a pain in the *** as it was. I could only imagine how hard it is with the head on the car. Dont drop one!

 

it may be better to use the rope method instead and feed it into the cylinders to hold the valve up, then you wont be worried about compressed air moving your pistons.

I personally would clean the area very well. I like MEK if you can find any(some states outlaw its use) The minimal amount that is going to be applied will not hamper you next time you go to remove the valve cover. Nothing that a little scraper/putty knife cant loosen if it is set real tight.

I seal stuff on aircraft all the time and 99% of the time I clean the area very well. Especially if it involves fuel or oil.

 

Hey Hylton,

Thanks for the advice, I get what you are saying, took the front right wheel off today and had a look at how the cover works. will be stripping tomorrow.

I ordered the WORKS cams, Brain flash P2e, 10.5 and O2 housing, full 3" TBE, AMS cooler.

EVO#1: using the mistubishi sealant: P# MD970389

Dyno4mance

I have done cams and springs before, besides my dad is helping me (been in the motor racing scene his whole life). I'm not worried about the mechanics of it, I was more asking if there where any tips or words of advice for the install.

Since I'll be using compressed air the motor is going to turn each cylinder to BDC when we put the air in to hold the valves up. so when the job of the springs and cams is done I want to just check all is at TDC again, and to check the belt is still in place on the pullies.


Althemean: thanks - was just worried that it may be a b1tch to get off if it sticks like hell, its just there as a "zero pressure oil leak stopper" seal


Mike

 

do the compressed air method, I used it when i change my cams and springs/retainers.

 

i used Honda bond on the valve cover, worked well. I just cleaned off the excess sealant and it seemed to have held fine.

 

I did the compressed air method, and it worked like a champ. I had to borrow the snap-on tool from a local machine shop, but other than that no problem. As for the pressure turning the motor, just use less pressure. I just slowly increased the pressure on my regulator until it held the valve shut. It was around 25-30psi. While the job was extremely tedious, it wasn't that hard to do.

The only reason it took longer than it should have is because I dropped a keeper down an oil galley and had to drop the oil pan to get it. After that I figured out that a magnet was my best friend. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the help guys, I'm sure I'll be fine

Mike

 

You don't really need much on your valve cover gasket, it is rubber anyways, not a paper type gasket. Hondabond is the **** so i would use a little bit of that. Good luck.

 

watch out when you do them, make sure you know what your doing you cant ben the valves really easy