For people that are using SBC I-Color or the other Blitz SBC electronic boost controller. What settings are you guys using? Is it set right, if my boost keep jumping from 1.6 bar to 1.5 bar than back to 1.6 to 1.5, and it keeps doing that during WOT. Basically it bounces from 1.6 to 1.5 constantly on WOT, needle acts like a rev/speed limiter style, bouncing.... and I do not have any limit set on the controller.

I'm currently using manual boost setting 78 and gain to 28. What does gain actually control? I want to set a setting where it gets to a point and stays there solid like my old hallman boost controller.

 

Ttt (bump)

 

sell it and get Dr.Grey set up.

 

Do you have the warning feature set? I swear on by SBC id3 the warning feature acts like the "limmiter." I had an issue like that at one point and realized that it was bouncing off the boost limiter. Make sure that both the limiter and the warning are high enough, or turn them off.

 

Maybe you should hook up the unit with the A/F sensor, because the product description says it might broaden the boost settings by comparing the A/F to the boost. This controller works better with the more information you can give it, and it'll pretty much display any engine vitals that you need to know so there's no need for extra gauges; unless you can't get all the info to be displayed on the screen.

 

you should have your gain below 15 if your on stock turbo.

 

ok... major problem, decided to run dyno today, did about 40 pulls on a dyno through out the day.

I've been trying to get the settings right... but i'm pretty sure the boost settings arn't the ones that are causing this fluctuation...





I've check everything, limit is set to off. The boost just keeps bouncing, I've even reinstalled the boost controller, i had the "IN" side connected on the BOV line by the intake manifold, but after few pulls i just tried the turbo nipple, just like the manual said.

This is driving me nuts.

I've tried different solinoid, same thing...

what else can cause this? perhaps if my header is cracked somewhere? (JIC tubular).

 

boost at the end ,ends up at about 15 psi at around 6500 rpm. during the fluctuation, the boost goes from 19 psi to 14 psi within 1 sec, and goes 18 psi than 15 psi tha 17 psi than 16 psi, and so on, every second. from when it's fully spooled around 3500rpm till 6500 rpm...

I tried both stock ecu settings and flashed ecu settings, same.

 

that was at 10 gain, but it's all the same, all the way down to 3 gain, i didn't go lower because i'm pretty sure it'd be the same.... it's different outcome.. like 7 gain would be less fluctuating, than 6 & 5 gain would be alot of fluctuation, than 4 gain is less, than 3 is more.

Manual Boost setting at 76

 

after 30 min of check around the car and rechecking boost controller, i finally decided to take the stock heat shielding off the JIC header..........

i think i found my problem... it guess it was bound to happend...







pulses from cylinder 1 and 4 is would not have reached the turbo at his full blow.

i'm gonna change it our right now and see what happens, if everything's fine, i guess it's time for port and polish on o2 housing and the mani. or just go for a turbo kit.

 

yeah...i heard that aftermarkets of those crack. i think works is working on a good one.

 

Ping, how did you make out with this? I'm very curious to see if replacing/fixing the exhaust manifold fixed it.

I have an almost stock evo 9 with only an after market turbo back exhaust and the blitz i-color. I am having the exact same problem as you describe. I have tried many different gain settings and lowered the boost limit a little as to not spike too high when this oscillation occurs. On WOT, the boost just "bounces" off the limit. Its horrible.

I hope this doesn't mean there's something up with my stock manifold.

-Clamps

 

ok, at regular boost, around 20 psi (Manual setting 80, Gain 4, No boost limit) , it's smooth as it can be. However when i run race gas (manual setting 89, Gain 4, no boost limit) it creates the oscillation for a bit at initial boost to full boost, but it settles down by the time i hit red line.

I don't know what else can cause this problem, i'm pretty sure it's some setting not matching up with the boost controller. how did u hook up the boost controller?

 

was this the JIC manifold that cracked?

 

Yeah, I can't figure this thing out. After reading this thread I thought I possibly had the solenoid hooked up backwards. So I swapped the vaccume lines going to it. That exhibited some very strange behavior. I thought if it was wrong, it wouldn't work at all. But after seeing how it worked after the swap, I'm pretty sure that it was hooked up correct originally.

So after this stinking hurricane/tropical storm passes over I'm going to wheel the car back out of the garage and verify that the vaccume lines are indeed hooked up the way they need to be.

But as of now, I'm back to square one.

-Clamps