Anyone out there have a good system for popping the TOB away from the Wedge collar? I am in the middle of pulling the motor and was referencing EvoMoto's clutch/flywheel removal advice but found that part to be a pain. I was able to get it removed, but not without the help of a gigantic pry bar which left the wedge collar looking like this:



I imagine there is a better way, let me know if anyone has a good method besides using your hand to push the clutch fork while prying the wedge collar in / TOB out with a screwdriver. I'm sure I'll be doing this again in the future

 

Use the recommended method, but put a ratchet on the crank pulley and rotate the motor a few degrees after each try. I.E. - Push the fork, put in the screwdriver and try to pry. If it doesn't come apart, turn the crank a few degrees and try again. Still no luck, try it again. It has worked every time for me and saves you from damaging the ring.

- Steve

 

Thanks SuperHatch

 

I took a screwdriver and wedged it between the shift fork and the engine block, so that the TOB was pressed to the pressure plate and then pryed the TOB out. Using your hand on the fork is tough.

 

Dude I think you totally ahve it wrong on how to remove it, It should be childs play. Pm me and ill give ya my cell number. Its hard to explain typing, but dude its so easy. Should take no more than 3 trys tops to get it off.

 

i hate that ring.

 

your factory pressure plate has a recesed section for the circlip retainer to fit into - locking your TOB via the groove in it and the reces in teh presure plate. On a stock clutch you have to push the TOB right in and then pop it off with a screw driver. This is a good safety system used by Mitsu in the clutch used (excedy)

Now by contrast teh aftermarket Excedy twin plate rely on a 40% angle to press against the circlip and the grove in the TOB. F_n pain in the .... on instaling the TOB back sometimes the TOB pops back out and taked the circlip or collar with it - which means the box has to come off to re-set it. So stock design is best - just a weak organic disk.

A

 

any advice on exedy twin install beside proper alignment

 

while i drive an rx7 i monitor the alcohol injection and clutch parts of the DSM board as there's lots of crossover.

you guys have the same wedge collar setup we do and there's always lots of posts about the removal challenge.

actually if you do it right it is easy.

there are a couple of keys....

the collar that remains in the pressure plate MUST be pushed so that it is flush against the clutch fingers. assuming the throwout arm is loose so it allows you to move the collar against the fingers, any flat bladed instrument will pop the bearing out from the collar.

if you have any problem w the bearing not popping out easily the collar isn't flush enough against the fingers.

this is not a get a bigger lever deal. harder prying will only damage the part.

please remember, any need for force and the collar isn't flush.

if the assembly does get damaged then it won't release so take it easy.

good luck,

howard coleman

 

I recently had the same thing happen to me, where the tob wouldn't release, it is a pita never had it happen to me before, but another way to get around it would be to unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel. I know it probably seems like you can't but I noticed there is enough room to stick a rachet in there and next thing you know the tranny will fall right apart.

 

yea you telling me,i have dropped my trans a total of 3 times already because on my exedy twin the tob clip pops off.i am now switching to a tilton twin ceramic and just getting rid of the whole system by using tiltons release bearing.

 

OR, you can take a 10mm socket and extention, unbolt the pressureplate from flywheel and off the tranny comes much easier to work with off the car . i did that because after trying and trying it wouldnt come off so i took the tranny off to find that the TOB was locked in place and probably would never came off. so i took a grinder and cut the biotch off.

 

I know this thread is old but at least I searched...

This is my second time doing the clutch on my IX. I separated the tranny from the block a 1/2" and then I realized I forgot to do this. Is it even possible to do it with the tranny 1/2" from the block? I don't really remember how much pressure I had to put on the clutch fork to get it to compress the sleve in the pressure plate but it seems very hard. It would be a pain to finagle the tranny back in because it's not really lined up right now.

Has anyone done it after sliding the tranny off? And what extension did you use to get to the pressure plate/flywheel bolts? I used a 1/4" wobble, u-joint and 3" extenstion to no avail.

 

as long as the clutch lever is sloppy then it can come of. but there has to be no pressure on it

 

How sloppy would you say? I can move it back and forth about a 1/2" pretty easily