Do you have a small green, or small blue? I am currently running the Large blue with small yellow combination and I would like to try a stronger small spring. With boost controller completly backed out all the way I get around 19 psi and since I have the alcohol injection now I think I would like to up my minimum boost to 22 or more. That would mean the small green or small blue would work great for me.

Thanks,

Keith

 

Mine arent color coded the right way... they are some china springs that came with a kids "Tial" he bought from Ebay. They do work fine though

Ill try to find where they are and measure them up by the psi they hold.

 

this might help on spring selection:

www.tialsport.com/document/w3_tial_44_sp.pdf

 

I already have all thier springrates

The ones I have are not from Tial themselves and are coded incorrectly. I thought I already posted that but thanks house... sorry I still cant get over your humidity comments

 

Do the small springs happen to be silver (no paint color) white, and black? If so, they are Tial springs.... Tial BOV springs to be exact If I remember correctly the same springs that are currently used in the Tial BOV were once used in the smallest WG Tial used to make (no longer in production).

This is something I was thinking about doing though.... the Tial BOV springs are smaller in diameter than the Tial WG springs and in fact do fit inside the small WG springs just like the small WG spring fits inside the large WG spring. If you are going for extreme pressures with a large Tial WG you can do a triple spring setup.

Keith

 

No, if I remember correctly they are green, orange, blue, and grey

 

Where is the pressure source going to the gate? Bottom or top?

You have a couple options to try. Pull the boost controller off and see what happens. If it still creeps or doesn't hold enough pressure, put the pressure source to the top of gate. Just back your boost controller off a bit before you give the 2nd option a try.

 

Yeah, right now it is on the bottom port. Ill switch it to the top one and try that out.

Oddly enough, turns out in 4th gear at around 8k it begins to pull the boost back up. Last night at the track it shot to 32 psi @ 5k -> 28 psi @ 6k -> 30 psi @ 8k

I think I might also have an issue with the map sensor filter. I havent used it yet but heard sometimes people turn on the filter so it isnt as noisy looking... mine is very jumpy (Fluctuates from 26.8 to 29.1 - 27.4 - 28.9, etc, etc....

Ill swap the ports and see what that does and finally try to seal up all the boost leaks. Its not leaking as much now obviously because the taper got better. I just want it to hold 32psi to see what kind of difference it makes in the quarter.

 

By the way, thanks for the header and everything! Obviously its doing its job

 

I figure you already know this since you are a sharp operator, just covering for you in case you hadn't heard how to set it up Do NOT use the top port with a ball and spring MBC set up in the "normal" way! It can only be used with a bleeder style boost contol setup (manual bleeder or electronic).

The top port supplys extra closing force when used with a bleeder style boost controller. With boost supplied to both ports the WG is held shut until the boost solenoid (or manual bleeder valve) opens up and allows pressure to escape from the top port so the WG can open.

To use a ball and spring MBC this way you need to put a T in the line going to the top port with the MBC comming off of the T and venting to atmosphere. I will do a diagrame in paint and post it to show what I meen.

Later,

Keith

 

I forgot one thing in my diagram, you need a restrictor in the line going to the top port between your boost source and the MBC. Here is the new diagram:

Keith

 

What is the restrictor for? I was under the impression that by using both ports, the bottom port pushes the spring open and the top pushes it closed. Therefore by placing a bleeder valve on the top it will have slightly less pressure than the bottom side, forcing the gate open once the boost controller opens and starts bleeding off air.

 

Since both lines are fed from the same source, a bleeder in one line is a bleeder in BOTH lines unless you have a restrictor in the line between the bleeder valve and the rest of the boost lines.

Keith

 

ok well I dont get it

This is what I did and the results:

First way:



This seemed to go to infinite boost... I let off after I went around my boost guage... I didnt have the diagrams so I thought this was correct. Obviously not so I did this next:



So I did it that way and screwed the boost controller all the way down and then all the way up and both times resulted in extremely high boost (Over 35psi).

So should I use a restrictor on the top port side or what? Where would i get a restrictor for this and how do I determine what size restrictor?

 

The boost controller is the Hallman ball and spring with the heavier spring in it.

Should I try to see what happens if I just remove the MBC and leave the vacuum line open to the air? In theory that would make it open at the lowest boost possible right?