Tial says to do it a little different... They want you to run a line from the boost source to the controller, then from the controller to the top port and on that line leave a T venting to the atmosphere. Is this a viable way? Here is thier diagram:

http://www.tialsport.com/documents/w..._wginstall.pdf

 

That is how I would set it up for a simple bleeder style manual boost controler, but you have a halman style ball and spring boost controler right?

Keith

 

Print out this diagram I made and set it up this way. With the boost controler backed all the way out set up that way you will have minimum boost and with it screwed all the way in you will have max boost, but you need a restrictor of some kind in that line where the diagrame I made shows it. You should be able to use the restrictor pill out of the stock boost lines if you still have them lying around. Just having a T there with the boost controler taken off will get you the lowest boost, but without a restrictor pill that is a pretty good sized boost leak with a minimum gain in how much boost pressure you can hold.

Keith

 

Well that is how mine is set up right now but I dont have a restrictor pill. Where could I buy something like that or what would it even be used for normally? I dont have the stock boost lines anywhere

 

After thinking about this a little more wouldnt this technically be the "best" way of doing it:



From what I gather it seems the Ball and Spring type MBC has the little ball guy that blocks the hole, as pressure rises it forces the ball up allowing boost pressure to flow through the valve. When used normally, the more pressure that moves through the MBC, the lower the boost will be (Screwing the MBC out). If using the top port it would seem that the MBC should be able to be screwed all the way in, hopefully blocking all pressure from getting to the top port. To riase the boost you would just start unscrewing the boost controller, allowing more pressure to reach the top port.

This would leave no open lines to the atmosphere and, assuming the MBC can actually hold enough pressure, this should work. Worse case I would think a restrictor inline to the boost controller would make sure it works. The only downside to this is the boost will be controlled in reverse (Screw in to lower boost, screw out to raise boost).

 

Your method of doing this should also work... you would screw the controller in to hold all the pressure and not bleed any off to the atmosphere. Your way would keep the MBC so screwing in raises boost (By not bleeding any pressure out). I would still think my way would work better (No boost leaks, no open hoses, etc..) and be capable of controlling a larger range of boost (If the MBC can actually hold enough pressure). By larger range of boost I mean because you, in theory, should be able to hold infinite pressure by allowing the MBC to let all the air through or in reverse, could allow WG pressure by blocking off all pressure from making it to the top port.

 

This way would not allow you to control boost. As the boost pressure rises the boost controller would open more, allowing more pressure to reach the top port. With the boost controller tightened all the way down the pressure may never be enough to open it up, but as soon as the boost controller is released enough to allow some pressure through, the pressure will continue to rise and the boost controller will open more. It has to bleed off somewhere in order to control boost.

-Paul

 

100% correct! When using the top port on an external WG it MUST be set up as a bleeder style boost control system.

Keith

 

One of the easiest ways to do it for cheap (I am a DSMer at heart) is to just put a zip tie on the line in the location where you would have a restrictor and tighten that puppy down good! That will restrict flow to your bleeder setup giving you smooth consistant boost control. You can even experiment with how tight to sinch down the zip tie to get the amount of restriction you need.

Keith

 

cant help you here....

 

Now this is my kind of solution!

I am sick of trying out different ways to do it. Everytime I do something the stupid boost gauge just circles around into the vacuum part! Im just gonna buy a $10 GM Solenoid and use that with the EMS. Even if the stupid thing tapers the EMS will keep it where I want to be... in theory at least

 

I HATE the AEM EMS boost control setup.....

Good luck with it.

Keith

 

Well I have confidence that I will be able to get it to work correctly but here is the problem for ya with my car. Maybe you have another idea on whats causing it so I dont need to do the headache with the EMS. Here is a log of the boost issues:

 

As you can see the car should have much more power in it if I could hold the boost properly. That is the log from an 11.10 @ 128

I can raise the boost to around 34psi and let it taper to 28-29 but thats the most I could go before I cap the map sensor With the ignition all fixed up (You can see why I needed the ignition on that log... that was a "clean" pass for the ignition and it still was breaking up decently) and ready to go all I need is the boost to be good and maybe I can FINALLY make one decent damned pass.

 

That log is with the MBC? What configuration do you have the MBC in on that run, lower nipple "normal" style or the top nipple variation we were talking about using?

Keith