There are still a few blowthrough options, proflow was aquired by another company (maybe the vendor can jump in if he see's this,) and they have some new stuff coming, You also have the ECU+ and MAFT and MAFTPRO you can use with a GM sensor and AIT instead.

 

Maybe the OEM replacement Koyo.. I don't have the kit but just by looking at it... it's a tight squeeze with the OEM radiator.

 

Let me know if you get this.. I've already reinstalled my 20G but I'd still like to do away with the banjo bolts

 

Thanks for the info Big boost, I have looked into other ideas before a AEM, 1st being a ECU+w/GM MAF, as far as i can see this is my best option without going to a full standalone EMS. Jack i know you have experiance with the ECU+, as you know i have the Utec now, how would it compare? If i get the ECU+ i would dump the Utec for sure but i dont know what its capabilities are as far as tuning goes. I talked to the guys at MachV and they said that the ECU+ is more powerfull than the Utec. any input would be awesome!

As far as the koyo goes, im sure it would be a tight fit, i wouldn't risk it. My WG sits a little close b/c i haven't adjusted it yet, i can move it about another inch upward.

 

Nez,

Please post on what ems you decide to go with. i have pretty much the same mods as you and deciding between a custom dynoflash, aem, or even possibly the dsmlink. i have been told to stay away from the custom flash/maftpro combo so im trying to see what my best option would be. it would also be nice to be able to run aggressive cams like the revolvers since i have all upgrades needed for them. either way please keep us posted and if anyone else has any input for ems please post. thanks!

 

I wouldn't say more powerful, just different.. It has features that the UTEC doesnt, and the UTEC has features that the ECU+ doesnt. The logging on the ECU+ is amazing, and it does realtime adjustments to your tune, though it is still a MAF/CAS offset and therefore would require a reflash as a base (if you want to alter your fuel cut settings, rev limit, etc..) There is one really cool feature for guys that retain their MAF, and that is a feature that my blowthrough setup has, which is it allows you to set your low frequency at idle, it won't drop below that and does wonders for your idle if you have cams or low vacuum.. For me, it was never something I needed since my blowthrough setup does it, but when I switch back to the stock MAF, it idles just like the blowthrough does.

I do think that if you already have the UTEC, then stick with it, its a great unit, and if you can hold out, they will have some sort of MAF replacement function available with the new firmware (either speed density or a blowthrough option, but nothing is known for sure)

If you look up my older post on my prototypes of the blowthrough setups I have tested, (search Ford Cobra MAF Blowthrough) or (Blowthrough) one of the last posts is from the guy who aquired the ProFlow hardware and will be redesigning and reselling the hardware, he apparently has a programmable electronic Karmann Converter coming to market (replaces the analog karmann converter device I'm running) which will allow you to further tailor the MAF curves, however I havent had contact with him recently so I don't know where they stand..

Have a realistic view of the combination, ultimately many of us will have problems with the stock MAF and big turbos, but no matter what anyone says, the ECU and a reflash can be used at almost any power level assuming you configure it correctly (Scale the MAF, and correctly alter the Calibration tables) the only real problem with retaining the ECU is replacing the MAF with a useable alternative, and there are very few of us who have done this, but I can tell you from personal experience it was worth the expense.

 

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I woudl say that this turbo is the fine line between Street and Strip. On a flash I bet you could make 500+WHP is in reach and this turbo has make over 600WHP on stand alones, I say go for it , I would if I had the funds.

 

as a lot of people with "laggier" turbos are saying, lag seems to be coming overrated. for a very long time i've had the 50 trim in my sights, but now i'd really like to see what full boost is being at on these kits on pump/alky. i'd love to get a ride in a car with simple stage 4 mods and this turbo with pump/alky.

it seems like you're right, 500+ is easily attainable on pump/alky and the stock block is the limit once you pour in race gas.....so many choices....

 

/\ If I can talk myself into getting this turbo before I replace the clutch you will have you answers as far as a stage 4 with alky and 93 very, very soon...

 

How common of a problem is the wastegate clearance? I am thinking about the 3065... But I don't want it to attack my radiator.

 

I have the fp3065 on my car and the wastegate clears just fine. It's close but hasn't hit the radiator yet and that includes me launching the car. I few modifications can be made to make it clear a little better. I'm also running the stock maf with ecuflash. I've tuned it on pump and race gas and was going to hit the track tonight but it rained out.

 

Our turbo kits will not clear some of the thicker aftermarket radiators. Sorry it too so long for one of use to answer that question.

The stock radiator has a lot of room. We use to use a Vband flange at the outlet of the turbo to the wastegate, some guys did not adjust that correctly or didn't tighten it enough and ended up with a problem. Now the outlet of the turbo to the wastegate is solid. The closest part of our kit to any radiator is the top of the wastegate. As I say, stock radiator there is quite a bit of extra room. Some thicker aftermarket radiators it is tight though.

Jarrod's car ran 11.04 at 128 mph with this turbo on C16 at 28 psi of boost. Jarrod's car is just our Stages 1-4, AEM EMS, Exedy Twin disc. Still has a bone stock head, shortblock, intake manifold and throttle body on it. Also has HKS 272 cams in it. It is not lightened at all.

 

I have the buschur 35r kit on my car.. There's about 1" clearance between the radiator and the wastegate, unfortunately most aftermarket radiators would put it under 1/2 inch or less away and the engine shifting could eventually hit it in that case..

All the kits I've seen do come pretty close to the radiator though... If you get an aftermarket radiator, you need to make 100% sure its not thicker than stock, or you have a motor that won't shift at all (solid or firmer motor mounts, engine stabilizer, etc..)

 

what downpipe do you have Nez?