ble lifters anybody using them
#1
ble lifters anybody using them
I saw these on lancershop and was wondering if anybody here is using them.
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...1&cat=8&page=1
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...1&cat=8&page=1
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BLE is crap, I'v tested them and took 'em out.. Going for JUNs solid dittos.. It's the design that make them unreliable, three of mine came loose!
You need solid lifters when you go for high rpms and high lifting cams, with hydraulic lifters there is a chance of getting "valve floating" on higher revs..
You need solid lifters when you go for high rpms and high lifting cams, with hydraulic lifters there is a chance of getting "valve floating" on higher revs..
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BLE is crap, I'v tested them and took 'em out.. Going for JUNs solid dittos.. It's the design that make them unreliable, three of mine came loose!
You need solid lifters when you go for high rpms and high lifting cams, with hydraulic lifters there is a chance of getting "valve floating" on higher revs..
You need solid lifters when you go for high rpms and high lifting cams, with hydraulic lifters there is a chance of getting "valve floating" on higher revs..
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#8
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There are lots of reasons to rev over 8K without putting in a GT42 or anything else that requires a different radiator. While I am not going to say how, its possible to use the stock hydraulic lifters to over 10K. I can think of quite a few DSMers and Evo guys that know how to do it/are doing it.
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Solid lifters work well and do help to keep the valves in check at 9k+ rpm. They do require quite a bit of maintainance though, so unless your comfy doing that yourself, or this is a drag only car, you probly don't need them.
To be honest there's not much benefit to revving that high anyway, optimal shift points are rarely ever going to be that high. Hell, even with the 2.0L/42R setup Dan Bajalis best time was shifting at about 9k. Higher revs arent always better, look at dyno charts, the power always drops off when you get up in the revs. The only time you need those extra rpm's is so you can cross the traps without shifting into 5th. Plot you optimal shift points, if they're above 9k get some solid lifters, but I promise you, that wont be necessary.
To be honest there's not much benefit to revving that high anyway, optimal shift points are rarely ever going to be that high. Hell, even with the 2.0L/42R setup Dan Bajalis best time was shifting at about 9k. Higher revs arent always better, look at dyno charts, the power always drops off when you get up in the revs. The only time you need those extra rpm's is so you can cross the traps without shifting into 5th. Plot you optimal shift points, if they're above 9k get some solid lifters, but I promise you, that wont be necessary.
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Oh and high lift cams dont require solid lifters, so everyone who was asking, dont worry about it. High lift cams need upgraded springs, maybe double springs, and retainers, that's about it.
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I would say say it's the profile of the cam lobe that decides whether solid lifters are needed or not. JUN and Tomei makes there cams in both solid and hydraulic versions.
JUN say that over 8200 you should use solid lifters. I have JUNs solid 272 cams and they work with hydraulic lifters as well, I have tested and JUN have confirmed, but it's not recommended to rev past 8k with out them.
Going with solid lifters will also give you a slightly higher oil pressure.
JohnBradley: Your smart *** comment about you and a few super special dsm guys know how to rev past 10k with hydraulics is totally ot here! No one cars what you say you know and people will only think you are a jerk. Why not do as everyone else and share the information?
If anyone are a bit handy they can make there own solid lifters out of the stock lifters, the same way JUN does it. You machine the lifter and fill it so it can't move. Shims you get from Mitsubishi!
Hope someone find that information help full!
JUN say that over 8200 you should use solid lifters. I have JUNs solid 272 cams and they work with hydraulic lifters as well, I have tested and JUN have confirmed, but it's not recommended to rev past 8k with out them.
Going with solid lifters will also give you a slightly higher oil pressure.
JohnBradley: Your smart *** comment about you and a few super special dsm guys know how to rev past 10k with hydraulics is totally ot here! No one cars what you say you know and people will only think you are a jerk. Why not do as everyone else and share the information?
If anyone are a bit handy they can make there own solid lifters out of the stock lifters, the same way JUN does it. You machine the lifter and fill it so it can't move. Shims you get from Mitsubishi!
Hope someone find that information help full!
#12
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There are lots of reasons to rev over 8K without putting in a GT42 or anything else that requires a different radiator. While I am not going to say how, its possible to use the stock hydraulic lifters to over 10K. I can think of quite a few DSMers and Evo guys that know how to do it/are doing it.
#13
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I would say say it's the profile of the cam lobe that decides whether solid lifters are needed or not. JUN and Tomei makes there cams in both solid and hydraulic versions.
JUN say that over 8200 you should use solid lifters. I have JUNs solid 272 cams and they work with hydraulic lifters as well, I have tested and JUN have confirmed, but it's not recommended to rev past 8k with out them.
Going with solid lifters will also give you a slightly higher oil pressure.
JohnBradley: Your smart *** comment about you and a few super special dsm guys know how to rev past 10k with hydraulics is totally ot here! No one cars what you say you know and people will only think you are a jerk. Why not do as everyone else and share the information?
If anyone are a bit handy they can make there own solid lifters out of the stock lifters, the same way JUN does it. You machine the lifter and fill it so it can't move. Shims you get from Mitsubishi!
Hope someone find that information help full!
JUN say that over 8200 you should use solid lifters. I have JUNs solid 272 cams and they work with hydraulic lifters as well, I have tested and JUN have confirmed, but it's not recommended to rev past 8k with out them.
Going with solid lifters will also give you a slightly higher oil pressure.
JohnBradley: Your smart *** comment about you and a few super special dsm guys know how to rev past 10k with hydraulics is totally ot here! No one cars what you say you know and people will only think you are a jerk. Why not do as everyone else and share the information?
If anyone are a bit handy they can make there own solid lifters out of the stock lifters, the same way JUN does it. You machine the lifter and fill it so it can't move. Shims you get from Mitsubishi!
Hope someone find that information help full!
#15
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Zeus- I understand what you are saying, but I always considered myself average as well.
I didnt mean it to be smart *** or "un-tech" related to the thread. The original post was about BLE solid lifters. I was trying to show that they arent needed and why. Why throw out the baby with the bathwater? IF BLE's were needed for anyone there are quite a few people that would use them that arent using them now. I cant share the information, but I can tell you its possible.
The biggest reason I can think of to rev past 8K is being an MR owner at the track and NOT having a twin disk you cant reliably make 5th gear shifts. The only other option is to rev out 4th. Heck, most of the guys I go to the track with 5 speeds are revving over 8K through the big end to avoid a shift into 5th...and that is on a stock turbo.
Solid lifters are noisy as well and some of that noise can be interpreted as knock (at least in the DSMs). They also require lash adjustments on a semi regular basis. If thats something that doesnt seem to be a big problem and you need the extra RPM then do it.
I didnt mean it to be smart *** or "un-tech" related to the thread. The original post was about BLE solid lifters. I was trying to show that they arent needed and why. Why throw out the baby with the bathwater? IF BLE's were needed for anyone there are quite a few people that would use them that arent using them now. I cant share the information, but I can tell you its possible.
The biggest reason I can think of to rev past 8K is being an MR owner at the track and NOT having a twin disk you cant reliably make 5th gear shifts. The only other option is to rev out 4th. Heck, most of the guys I go to the track with 5 speeds are revving over 8K through the big end to avoid a shift into 5th...and that is on a stock turbo.
Solid lifters are noisy as well and some of that noise can be interpreted as knock (at least in the DSMs). They also require lash adjustments on a semi regular basis. If thats something that doesnt seem to be a big problem and you need the extra RPM then do it.
Last edited by JohnBradley; Dec 18, 2006 at 11:59 AM.