I have had a ChinaBay Type-S bov installed now for about 9 months or so. Today, I started noticing something strange going on. Normalling, when accelerating and lifting the throttle upon shifting, the bov always normally opened with that "whoosh" sound and everything would be fine. Today, it seemed like the bov only partially opened. It would flutter on partial throttle lift during a shift. Only if i was REALLY hard, close to or at WOT, would the bov blow open. I tried adjusting it, but I have it all the way adjusted out... the absolute softest setting possible, but its still is having the same problem. This is causing weird idle problems and it stalled on me while driving thru a parking lot and quickly pushing in the clutch.

Any ideas on if this could be something else? I am about to rip out that POS bov and replace it w/ something else. I need to know if replacing it is going to fix the problem though. Has anyone ever experienced a BOV stuck shut?

Thanks

 

forge rs.... mr diverter .... good choices for replacement

 

Yeah I will go w/ a Forge most likely for a replacement, but my question is if the problem is definitely related to the BOV

 

problem is definetly the BOV.

I just don't understand this part:

"Only if i was REALLY hard.."

 

HAHAHA LOL

I meant "only if i was really hard on the gas"

 

No disrespect meant here- BUT I still cannot figure out why people put cheaply made, no name, crap, junk on their EVO's! If Mitsubishi used ebay crap on the cars to put them together they would not perform the way they do. It is a $30,000.00 car! If you are tight with cash, DO NOT BUY AN EVO. Evo's require regular maintenance, synthetic oil, expensive parts-that's why they perform so well from the factory. I do not like spending money anymore than anyone else, but it ultimately comes down to you get what you pay for. Please do not be a victim anymore of the cheap ebay prices for products that are worth less than the chaep prices you pay for them.

I learned my lesson w/ ebay crap a long time ago when I owned my 2G DSM. Everyone has to learn sometime-so now you know.

To answer your question, I would put the stock BOV back on unitl you can afford a replacement. It may leak a little at high boost, but I doubt it will fall aprt like it sounds your ebay super BOV is doing.

I would recommend a stock EVO 9 BOV which can be found fairly cheap now. You can buy them brand new for about $100 shipped to you. IF you would like a little "bling" or are running more than 22-23 psi of boost, then go w/ the Forge BOV. It seems to be a favorite of many members on this site including Warrtalon.

-MIKE

 

My modified stock BOV holds 26 psi and delivers drivability nearly to stock

 

modified stock bov?

 

if i were you i would put on a jdm mr bov,crushed 1G, or the forge rs. if you want stock like driveability i would go with the mr or 1G,good luck and get rid of that pos e-bay bov.

 

Old DSM trick to make it hold more boost, all the suby guys are doing it too now.

 

It says a Greddy BOV on your sig though. Is it a real Greddy or is it a ebay POS BOV? You know what they say you pay for.

 

I used 6 machine screws to compress the spring about 3-4 mm making the valve considerrably stiffer. The screw heads were then encapsulated in high temperature potting compound for a guaranteed seal. The valve holds allmost close to what my Forge RS did but provides nearly stocklike drivability.

I got a few more BOV's lying around, one will be less stiff and another will be used for an experiement which entails using the compressor discharge air (Higher psi) controlled via 3 way solenoid and throttle switch. This will allow 2-3 more psi on the diaghram of valve under boost allowing it to hold more with stock spring tension

 

APS makes a great valve. I've been using it for a while now with no issues

 

I couldn't find anyone with a Forge RS unit in stock that could overnight me one, so I'll be putting my stock one back on if I can find it, or fix the seized POS that's on there.

I'm curious as to what you mean by the MR DV retaining stock driveablity vs. the Forge RS. If they're both set to recirculate, how is the Forge unit not as good as the MR DV as far as drivability goes?

 

I dont have a MR DV, its the plastic 04 DV, I personally did not like the Forge RS car bucking and fluttering activity in my piping but I kept it in because the thing holds pressure rock solid. Now that I got the stock one holding good, I sold the RS for $130 in a day.

Dont get me wrong, The forge valve is a definately a nice piece but I have more fun with my rigged stock one now

Get on one of your local evo forums, usually you can find group buys there and one of the most popular parts is the Forge RS BOV (DV actually), Group buys can get the price way down too, and you might find a valve to borrow locally until you can get one ordered