IMHO, I think its the tuner cause so many peple are running about the same mod sequence and this hasnt happened not t my recalection. I mean a tbe, drop in, cams, 02housing, ported mani, and flash are all too common to be making those prblems. HELL THERE ARE IDIOTS BOOTING TO 30PSI ON THE STOCKER AND THEY HAVENT HAD THESE ISSUES. Well at least I havent heard of them. I dont think its a compreson problem it culd be a boost proble but then how come your plugs are fouling all the time? Boost leak is most likely part of the problem.

 

FWIW, these are the types of things I would think the TUNER would have already checked / tried. (Especially changing the heat range on the plugs.)

 

Okay so should I get the HKS DLI2 per his request? I can get one shipped from Nolimit for 485$ right now , just wondering if i should. Does the HKS DLI2 produce power?

 

Its been known to produce up to 15whp after install

 

You can't rely on a tuner to do things like that unless you ask them to. They are not going to do that when they are just running it on a dyno and putting a tune on it.

I recently had my car custom tuned and thought the tuner would adjust cam timing to find the sweet spot as part of the custom tune. I was wrong.

 

Perhaps that's all the more reason to find someone that does

 

The DLI doesn't randomly make power, but it can provide the necessary spark you need to make the power you should be making. It is possible to overrun the stock ignition when running high boost all the time, but I still think there are plenty of people running to your level of modding/boost/tuning that have the stock ignition. Back when I just had my basic bolt-ons and SAFC, I would toss in 100-104oct, crank the boost to 24-25psi, then run those 12.0s with 112-113mph traps, which is about where you are right now, but you have cams and such that should bump you up higher. When I did the 341/361 on alky with stock cams, my ignition was breaking up some up past 6500rpm, but my torque was still strong, and my power wasn't lacking.

 

After getting tuned with ALky by Al this weekend, my car was breaking up a bit too. What plugs do you have Warr and what are they gapped at?

 

I have BR8ES that were originally gapped at .021-.022, but when I put in a fresh set after 4-5 months, I gapped the new ones to .024.

 

I currently have the BPR7ES in there right now gapped at .024 but they are getting old I think. Maybe I will try the 8's

 

I doubt that at that boost and power level it is a spark issue, unless it is plug-related.

I made 380whp/360wtq @ 25psi on a Dynojet, and later with more mods 360/360 @28psi on a Mustang dyno on stock style NGK iridiums and stock ignition (with 45000 miles on the wires and coils).

Later switched to a COP system with the copper NGK 8's that so many people use. Although most people seem to like the standard NGK plugs better than the stock style Iridiums, my experience is different. The NGK 8's fouled out real fast - even with a COP ignition system.

I switched back to the NGK Iridium plugs, 1 range colder than stock, and that solved the problem.

This is just my opinion, and what I would do if it were my car that was having teh problem:

- Buy or rent a compression checker and test each cylinder's compression.
- Make or borrow a boost leak tester. Test and fix boost leaks. You will have some if you have never checked it before.
- Switch to BPR8EIX Iridium plugs (1 range colder than stock). Start with a gap of about .026 and go up or down from there.
- Go get tuned again, maybe by a different tuner.

Post up a dynochart for us to look at. I would be interested to see the shape of it and where peak TQ and HP come in.

EVOlutionary

 

I have an Appointment Set Up and I will be doing all of what you mentioned Evolutionary, Thanks for the Help everyone. As soon as I get more information as to whats going on I will update for newer Advice. I really appreciate everyone's responses. Maybe I should just throw parts at it

 

Your numbers are not that much off from an EVO with the mods that you have tuned conservatively. EVOs with your mods put down 345 hp +/- 5 hp. My 05 Evo put down 312 hp and 310 torque on 100 octane w/o cams and porting, but with TBE, K&N and boost set at 24 psi. My AFR was set at around 11:1. You are probably short about 10 hp, but that is not a serious loss of power.

Your plugs seem to be the issue. If they are fouling, then change them. Try BPR8ES and gap them tight. I have mine gapped at 0.022-0.023. Don't invest in the HKS yet. Try and troubleshoot the problem before you cough up $$$$ for the HKS.

Can you post your dyno sheet? Do you have a before and after sheet? How does the area under the curve look like? Quoting peak numbers is deceptive.

 

Maybe you are right but I have seen many an EVO on this board put down my numbers with same mods on Pump gas ( granted mostly east coasters with 93 octane) I figured with the race Gas the numbers should be higher by 10-15whp . I Personally think I am Missing about 20WHP . I could be wrong though.

I am still going to spring for the HKS DLI2 simply because it is used on cars supporting 700whp applications and Its something that can be used with any setup.

The rest of that stuff that was mentioned will hopefully get done mid next week.

 

I just remembered something. Was your AFR measured at the tailpipe or the downpipe? If it was measured at the tailpipe, then your 11:1 AFR is more than likely around 10.6:1 AFR. I meaured AFR at the tailpipe (dynojet) and downpipe (my own Innovate) when my car was being tuned and like clockwork the tailpipe AFR read 0.3-0.4 leaner than the downpipe AFR.

If you are really tuned to run 11:1 across the powerband on a dynojet tailpipe wideband, then you could be running rich and your AFR may actually be 10.6-10.7:1. That could where your lost hp is.

Before you get the HKS could you please get the dynorun files from Harman Motive and put them in a zip file and upload them. We can download them and look at them and we might be able to help you better.