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new clutch to give many a run for their money

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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 04:50 PM
  #31  
joeymia's Avatar
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I don't believe you stalled a tilton that many times. It is not possible for someone with that much experince to stall that many times!!! If you indeed stalled that many times your friends clutch is setup wrong... I had a friend who had bad engagement problems with his tilton. Two weeks later all his clutch hubs were stripped. Also did your friend have his helper spring removed? It does help a bit...
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 05:14 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by joeymia
I don't believe you stalled a tilton that many times. It is not possible for someone with that much experince to stall that many times!!! If you indeed stalled that many times your friends clutch is setup wrong... I had a friend who had bad engagement problems with his tilton. Two weeks later all his clutch hubs were stripped. Also did your friend have his helper spring removed? It does help a bit...
It was hard for me to type in that I stalled that many times...but it is true. I don't know what other issues the car has or the staus of the helper spring.
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 05:16 PM
  #33  
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The reason I compared the two was my budget, the price of these two are within $200 of each other. The carbon/carbon tilton would be $1500 more.

Originally Posted by 03EVO583
You cannot compare the drivability and noise levels of a cerametallic clutch to a carbon clutch. It like comparing apples to oranges. Drive a Tilton carbon and you would have a real comparison. The squeeks you are hearing is the nature of the cerametallic material. Have ever driven a car with racing brake pads? As with racing brake pads, there is a trade-off in heat capacity/friction coefficient and noise levels. Cerametallic materials have a high friction coefficient as is why they are quite to engage. The friction coefficient of carobn is linear (increases with temperature) and is why is has better drivability.

As far as the shifting quality... the pedal stop is most likely not set correctly in the car. If it is not set correctly, the clutch will not disengage cleanly and cause the discs to drag (the effect of the drag magnifies as RPMs increase). If the pedal went to the floor... a pedal stop is not set and the clutch is most likely being over-stoked. Tilton clutches typically disengage about 1.5"- 2" off the floor. When a clutch is over-storked, the diaphargm spring will begin to invert and start to re-engage the clutch.

Your shifting problems with the carbonetic clutch many also be related to a mis-adjusted pedal (or lack of pedal stop).
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 05:19 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 03EVO583
You cannot compare the drivability and noise levels of a cerametallic clutch to a carbon clutch. It like comparing apples to oranges. Drive a Tilton carbon and you would have a real comparison. The squeeks you are hearing is the nature of the cerametallic material. Have ever driven a car with racing brake pads? As with racing brake pads, there is a trade-off in heat capacity/friction coefficient and noise levels. Cerametallic materials have a high friction coefficient as is why they are quite to engage. The friction coefficient of carobn is linear (increases with temperature) and is why is has better drivability.

As far as the shifting quality... the pedal stop is most likely not set correctly in the car. If it is not set correctly, the clutch will not disengage cleanly and cause the discs to drag (the effect of the drag magnifies as RPMs increase). If the pedal went to the floor... a pedal stop is not set and the clutch is most likely being over-stoked. Tilton clutches typically disengage about 1.5"- 2" off the floor. When a clutch is over-storked, the diaphargm spring will begin to invert and start to re-engage the clutch.

Your shifting problems with the carbonetic clutch many also be related to a mis-adjusted pedal (or lack of pedal stop).
The problem is that I am driving with this clutch like I did with my stock clutch, ex. going to the floor w/ the peda, instead my new clutch engages at 1/2 of that distance. I will look into the clutch stop. I has been adjusted, but I have not driven it yet. I heard it is "10 times better than when I brought it in" according to my mechanic. I will see for myself soon.
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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 09:57 PM
  #35  
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car dynoed! the clutch performed beautifully. with over 30 pulls, the car had some issues on the dyno, but none were the clutch. It managed to hold 405 whp and 368 tq on 25 psi of boost. The clutch pedal was also adjusted, and the fluid changed for a synthetic+shock proof blend.
I will be messing with hard launches via the 2 step launch control I have set to 5500 rpm. I will keep posting with results.

The car shifts much better now that it is adjusted, and I will try to learn how to shift it so I get the best performance out of it.
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 12:30 AM
  #36  
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issues with clutch are gone...just great performance

it's official, I have over 1,000 miles on the carbonetic clutch. It has had a rough 500-1000 miles with over 30 dyno pulls from 350-450 whp and 330-400 lb of torque at each pull. no problems at all, holds great and slips just enough under a 2 step launch at 5,500 rpms.

The lock out I mentioned earlier is gone. The clutch has been adjusted and a clutch stop installed. works great! looking forward to putting more miles on it.
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Old Nov 26, 2006 | 12:48 AM
  #37  
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bump for some more feedback on this clutch!@
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 09:11 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by TKMotorsports
bump for some more feedback on this clutch!@
I know I am using and enjoying the schizzel out of it
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 12:20 PM
  #39  
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Any updates on how your clutch is holding up. Its been 2 years.
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