I think we are now in the 'changing times'. The oils have changed a lot from a few years ago and so have engine building and maching methods. I'm sure they put in something that is proper in at the factory. I don't think any one is wrong, we are just simply in a transition time where both ways can be right and unless you take 2 brand new engines and do some tests, we'll never know which is better. So, who's got some extra dough and time on their hands?

 

they don't say ONLY Mobil 1, they recommend it. They REQUIRE
that it be synthetic, look at the post taken directly from the manual.

If a manufacturer were to require a specific brand, like say FRAM air filters and threaten to void your warrentee if you were to put on an HKS air filter, guess what? THEY WOULD BE FORCED TO PROVIDE THEM FOR YOU FOR FREE. They can't MAKE you buy anything you don't want to, as far as brands are concerned. But saying you have to use synthetic is okay - Royal Purple, Castrol, Mobil 1, whatever just full synthetic with the ratings given from the manual.

 

I agree. I'm certain that Mitsubishi would make sure it uses the correct oil for the engine break-in period. It's a lot cheaper for Mitsubishi to buy and use a certain oil than to be fixing a bunch of car engines that have failed or have been damaged while under warranty due to Mitsubishi being too lazy to make necessary adjustments for cars in the break-in period.

 

About the breaking in thing.... manual/dealership says 600 miles. I read somewhere, then again on Buschur's site that there are people that break in the motors hard. Motors don't need a real break in (only the first TWENTY miles are crucial). Bearings don't have to be broken in. Only thing that has to wear in is the rings to cylinder walls sealing, and that happens right away.

So did EVERYBODY here baby their cars for the first 600?

I am one to believe that if you break in a car hard, it'll run hard. This is by no means saying to abuse the hell out of it on mile 1.

 

Improper breakin has long term effects. By the time problems start to arise your warranty will have expired.

 

ok.. i only read the first page and this has probably already been noted.. (this is from MOBIL 1's Homepage!)

[Myth]You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to Mobil 1.

[Reality]You can start using Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ in new vehicles at any time, even in brand-new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:


Chevrolet Corvette
All Porsche vehicles
Mercedes-Benz AMG vehicles
Dodge Viper
Ford Mustang Cobra R
All Aston Martin cars

One of the myths that persists about Mobil 1 is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design these high-performance cars, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ can be used in an engine from the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.

[Myth] Using Mobil 1 will void my new-car warranty.

[Reality]With the exception of the Mazda rotary engine (Mazda does not recommend any synthetic motor oils), Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ will not void new-car warranties. Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ exceeds the API and ILSAC motor oil service requirements of all new-car manufacturers, both import and domestic. If in doubt, always check your vehicle owner's manual or contact your vehicle's manufacturer

 

That is what I have been trying to say

And I am not trying to tell Mitsubishi to go to conventional oil, they will not do that

And the Corvette, Viper, etc example is not good. This is a turbocharged EVo running 18psi boost stock

 

i think i'll stick with that calls for...

 

I'll take the engineers recommendation.
Especially since I would expect others to take my recommendations for units I design.

 

Car manufacturers DO think about engine break-in. After all, it's their business to know:

My friend was involved in a project specifically to machine blocks post-bore to significantly reduce engine break-in needed for piston ring sealing. It actually involves microscopic measurement of each cylinder wall and something to do with scoring it with an engineered pattern.

Whoever said that you have to talk to the right person is correct. Anyone else is going to BS you to fill in the blanks that they do not know. Anyone that's been in the corporate world knows this... It's tough to find out the real reasons for this and that: So until you have hard evidence I'm sticking with the manufacturer's recommmendations.

 

Just one question. Do the engines that your shop produces as well as the other "best shops in the country" that you talked to come with a 5 year or 60,000 mile warranty? Mitsubishis do and they say use a full synthetic. So if Mitsu says to use it, it is probably a good idea. Now, if I were to come with to you and have my 4G63 rebuilt with Ross pistons, Crower Rods, Ferrera valves, HKS cams, and three angle port and polished head job and you say only use mineral oil for the break in, then okay. But I'm pretty sure your only going to give me a thrity second or thirty foot warranty, maybe a 12 month/12000 if you are super confident.

 

You are completely right. W ewill give you 5 years/60K miles if the engine is build the way you want it, but you stick to everything else stock. No boost controller, stock turbo, stock ECU, no S-AFC.

If you still want to put these things, and let us tune it, there is a 12K mile swarranty. That is if we tune it. But if you put one of these things oin a stock car, the Mitsu warranty is gone.

Right no we are building a 4G63 for a HKS T51SPL turbo. If somebody does not know, that turbo supports 1000HP.
The 4G63 has a lot of potential, trust me. And with Ross pistons, Pauter rods, custom cams, stndalone, etc, teh car will be running great.

 

When I broke in the 4G63T that I built, I used dino-oil. Why? It is cheaper than Mobil 1. And I knew I'd be changing the oil a few times in the first 1000mi. Why waste the money?

 

Porsche 911 Turbos have been running Mobile 1 for a while now.