Yeah--I've had it explained to me but I am still a little fuzzy. Good pictures work best.

 

I'll try to post a few pics when I do mine over the weekend.. It really is an easy install, but If your not sure where to look, I totally understand why it would be confusing.

Ya know.. the stock air-box seems to obstruct alot of visibility of these components.. Alot of this stuff appears to be difficult to access, but its actually pretty easy to get at. Again, I'll post specifics asap with photos.

 

You do have a boost gauge installed, right?

 

Yah, I have an autometer boost gauge, identical to the Buscher setup (though I had mine from another car) and a www.dawesdevices.com calibrated A/F indicator It uses LED's to indicate different levels of mixture at WOT.. but I also can monitor O2 voltage with the S-AFC in monitor mode if you connect the O2 sensor to the secondary input (blue wire)

 

I have NOT put my MBC in yet, but I've done some preliminary surveying and took a few pics:

http://www.collectracecars.com/evo/joepmbc.htm

Until mine is in I need someone like MalibuJack to confirm my location is correct. I'm pretty sure but I won't say for certain unless -I- had one installed already.

 

Yup thats it.. Its in a cramped location, I think it may be easier to reach from under the car or taking down the access panel under the front fascia.. You can see two hoses, one from the turbo housing, a t-connector, and then the hose goes into the actuator (Brass colored) the other hose goes to the boost solenoid which you found already in your other photos.. you can basically zip-tie those out of the way and put the MBC Hoses in its place on the actuator. If your concerned about unfiltered air getting into the intake, plug the hoses or remove the hose on the bottom of the intake tract, and plug it.. Leave the original stuff there cuz your gonna have to reconnect all that before you take it in for service.

 

Yeah, I spent quite some time verifying that it was the correct location, plus I checked out a similar install on a 2G DSM just to verify the setup was similar.. If you start with the controller set for "No boost compensation" in my case with the hallman, its all the way out.. I think that it will run at 16psi or so until you crank it up a bit.. so you definitely need a gauge...

 

My instructions for my mbc say disconnect the line from the wastegate actuator then follow the lines to the turbo and to the wastegate soleniod and disconnect those as well. Then it says to plug the nipple on the turbo housing and plug the nipple from the wastegate soleniod to the bottom of the intake tubing. Then tap into the line from the intake manifold to the bypass valve with a tee and run one line off that tee to the bottom of the mbc. Run another line from the side port on the mbc to the nipple on the wastegate actuator and thats it. Now these instructions seem different than what I'm reading about.

 

Oops.. I bumped my post because I think my diagram was wrong..

 

Basically the MBC in its totally closed position will allow the turbo to open its wastegate under its pre-set spring pressure (Approx somewhere between 16 and 19psi) . The more you open the MBC (basically a valve) the more pressure you place against the actuator preventing the wastegate from opening, therefore raising the boost pressure to a higher level when it can finally open. At least that is how the circuit appears.. The diagram is a little deceptive because it doesnt show the wastegate valve's orientation, or the orientation of the actuator, which will determine if the door is "Forced closed" under boost, or "forced Open" which will have an effect on how the MBC works in that type of circuit.


Ignore my ramble.. I think I don't have enough information to be certain if the wastegate is closed under pressure, or open under pressure.. That could make a big difference in this..

 

Ya know.. someone pointed out that instructions are different depending on which MBC... So i'm a little confused.. if someone see's that I'm TOTALLY wrong with my diagram.. please correct me so I can take the diagram down.

I think the easiest solution is to use it as a bleedoff.. In otherwords, run your MBC in place of the stock solenoid ..

Disregard my previous diagram if you saw it..

 

Let me verify this when I get home later.. I'll post real instructions, photos, and a diagram over the weekend when I know which way works better..

 

Is the dawesdevices A/F meter accurate without a wideband O2 sensor? In another thread, someone said the Apexi turbo timers A/F meter was worthless without a wideband O2. I really don't know much about the use of wideband O2 or A/F metering. I like what I saw on the dawes page though. Simple, color coded, easy to see.