boost controller install
It should work with both the Wideband and the regular O2 sensor.. You will always benefit from using a wideband, and if you want fewer headaches a wideband lambda (Motec) is your best bet. What I do know is that the Dawes devices is calibrated to work at WOT with a 0-1v O2 sensor, which is what most stock sensors are running at. Since its not computerized (its uses a small I/C and its voltage sensing) sample rate for the device isn't an issue.
To answer your question, its designed to work with a standard narrowband O2 sensor.. And I do know that the device will be as accurate as your 02 sensor is when it reports a/f mixture.
The device is calibrated to report values within a very narrow range, so your either within your optimum mixture, or outside it.
Does that make sense? Its only a visual indicator. I will be using it in conjuction with the s-afc's sensor voltage meter...
If you plan on doing a major amount of tuning, spend the few hundred for a good lambda and a wideband 02 kit.. its well worth the money, and once its tuned, you can move it to another car.
To answer your question, its designed to work with a standard narrowband O2 sensor.. And I do know that the device will be as accurate as your 02 sensor is when it reports a/f mixture.
The device is calibrated to report values within a very narrow range, so your either within your optimum mixture, or outside it.
Does that make sense? Its only a visual indicator. I will be using it in conjuction with the s-afc's sensor voltage meter...
If you plan on doing a major amount of tuning, spend the few hundred for a good lambda and a wideband 02 kit.. its well worth the money, and once its tuned, you can move it to another car.
The stock set-up has one line coming off of the gold colored wastegate canister and another coming off of the turbo compressor outlet nipple. Both of those vaccum lines "Y" into one hose that connects to the factory boost controller.
1) Before beginning installation adjust your MBC baseline by turning the knob until you can blow air pressure through it. Make sure you are blowing into the non-vented side of the MBC. This ensures that you won't immediately overboost when you go to test your new install;-) It basically opens the flow of air between manifold pressure and wastegate canister to allow the wastegate to operate at its static boost controlled by the wastegate spring pressure.The non-vented side of the MBC will connect into a manifold pressure source, and the vented side will connect to the wastgate actuator canister side.
1) Remove the hoses from the gold colored wastegate & the turbo compressor outlet nipple.
2) The vented side of the MBC connects to the gold colored wastegate canister.
3) The nipple on the turbo compressor gets a vaccum cap. make sure its secured with a spring clamp or mini tye wrap. You don't want it coming off.
NOTE: Some people connect the MBC directly to the compressor outlet nipple, but the directions I had with my XBC boost controller indicated not to do that. I think (and I reiterate "I think")that the short connection creates too much immediate pressure build, and this may result in part throttle high EGT's and boost spiking as well. As it is I never experienced any part throttle high EGT issues and boost spikes were minimal.
4) The non-vented side of the MBC is connected into a manifold pressure source. There are various places to "T" into a line. Just make sure that you carefully tyrap or spring-clamp your connections.
5)Now that your MBC is now installed either remove the original vaccum lines feeding into the "Y" and plug the vaccum line going into the FBC, or plug both lines going into the "Y". Tye wrap the line(s) out of harms way. BTW, not plugging the FBC on the WRX caused weird problems, so don't take a chance and just block it off somehow.
6) Tye wrap, or mount the actual boost controller in a safe and easy to get to location. You may want to add a piece of adhesive felt or the soft side of velcro to ensure the MBC doesn't rub through anything.
7) At this point you should re-check all of your connections and then be ready to go for a test drive. Initially your boost gauge will read low(whatever the static pressure is on the EVO's turbo wastegate actuator). Depending on the MBC, a half turn or full turn at a time for testing will provide a fairly safe method for adjusting the MBC. Remember that most ball and spring MBC's use spring pressure to create more tension thus resulting in more held boost.This normally means that screwing the knob tighter results in more boost and looser results in less boost.
Make sure and do a standing start check, and also do a roll-on throttle check. The roll-on tends to create the most spike in my experiences. Taking your boost spikes into consideration, set the MBC at the "held" boost level you feel comfortable with.
Temperature changes will require re-adjustment. Hotter temps=less boost, colder temps = more boost so if you set your MBC for say 18.5 psi with boost spikes of.25-.75 (18.75-19.25)on an 80 degree day, then you get a cold snap down to say 55 degrees your boost may increase by almost a full psi. Obviously you will need to loosen the spring pressure on the MBC to bring the pressure back into alignment with your spec.
I currently have an MBC on my Syclone and since the SY is running the stock 2 bar MAP it will not fuel properly past 14.7 psi. I have my MBC set at 14.25 or so and have spikes of .25-.75 which keeps me within the range of safety.
One other thing.....if you don't have a boost gauge you shouldn't be messing with this.
Oh yeah, this kind of mod can void your warranty, and remember that any mod you decide to do is at your own decision, and potential risk of damage to your car!
Bottom line is that you are ultimately responsible for your own actions!!
1) Before beginning installation adjust your MBC baseline by turning the knob until you can blow air pressure through it. Make sure you are blowing into the non-vented side of the MBC. This ensures that you won't immediately overboost when you go to test your new install;-) It basically opens the flow of air between manifold pressure and wastegate canister to allow the wastegate to operate at its static boost controlled by the wastegate spring pressure.The non-vented side of the MBC will connect into a manifold pressure source, and the vented side will connect to the wastgate actuator canister side.
1) Remove the hoses from the gold colored wastegate & the turbo compressor outlet nipple.
2) The vented side of the MBC connects to the gold colored wastegate canister.
3) The nipple on the turbo compressor gets a vaccum cap. make sure its secured with a spring clamp or mini tye wrap. You don't want it coming off.
NOTE: Some people connect the MBC directly to the compressor outlet nipple, but the directions I had with my XBC boost controller indicated not to do that. I think (and I reiterate "I think")that the short connection creates too much immediate pressure build, and this may result in part throttle high EGT's and boost spiking as well. As it is I never experienced any part throttle high EGT issues and boost spikes were minimal.
4) The non-vented side of the MBC is connected into a manifold pressure source. There are various places to "T" into a line. Just make sure that you carefully tyrap or spring-clamp your connections.
5)Now that your MBC is now installed either remove the original vaccum lines feeding into the "Y" and plug the vaccum line going into the FBC, or plug both lines going into the "Y". Tye wrap the line(s) out of harms way. BTW, not plugging the FBC on the WRX caused weird problems, so don't take a chance and just block it off somehow.
6) Tye wrap, or mount the actual boost controller in a safe and easy to get to location. You may want to add a piece of adhesive felt or the soft side of velcro to ensure the MBC doesn't rub through anything.
7) At this point you should re-check all of your connections and then be ready to go for a test drive. Initially your boost gauge will read low(whatever the static pressure is on the EVO's turbo wastegate actuator). Depending on the MBC, a half turn or full turn at a time for testing will provide a fairly safe method for adjusting the MBC. Remember that most ball and spring MBC's use spring pressure to create more tension thus resulting in more held boost.This normally means that screwing the knob tighter results in more boost and looser results in less boost.
Make sure and do a standing start check, and also do a roll-on throttle check. The roll-on tends to create the most spike in my experiences. Taking your boost spikes into consideration, set the MBC at the "held" boost level you feel comfortable with.
Temperature changes will require re-adjustment. Hotter temps=less boost, colder temps = more boost so if you set your MBC for say 18.5 psi with boost spikes of.25-.75 (18.75-19.25)on an 80 degree day, then you get a cold snap down to say 55 degrees your boost may increase by almost a full psi. Obviously you will need to loosen the spring pressure on the MBC to bring the pressure back into alignment with your spec.
I currently have an MBC on my Syclone and since the SY is running the stock 2 bar MAP it will not fuel properly past 14.7 psi. I have my MBC set at 14.25 or so and have spikes of .25-.75 which keeps me within the range of safety.
One other thing.....if you don't have a boost gauge you shouldn't be messing with this.
Oh yeah, this kind of mod can void your warranty, and remember that any mod you decide to do is at your own decision, and potential risk of damage to your car!
Bottom line is that you are ultimately responsible for your own actions!!
HELP!!!
I installed my Dial-A-Boost Turbonetics MBC today. My dumb(but very excited) butt did not establish my base psi after I installed my autometer boost gauge. I did it, but just by revving my engine, and it maxed at around 18 psi. I installed the MBC after, but I do not know what the hell I am doing!!! The first thing I noticed after the install is the boost gauge, which is in vacuum, is moving a lot. I have the arrow on the MBC connected to the wastegate canister. The turbo compressor outlet, the stock solenoid, and the other outlet of the MBC are all connected through a T connector. I just drove around and the gauge maxes at 25-26 psi!!!
I drove on the highway and while flooring the car in 3rd, it bogged down at a certain point (without reaching max speed, I think). I even think the dial on the MBC is backwards, because when I blow through the non-vented side, it kinda restricts at a certain point but never closes. When I blow though the other side (the one with the arrow), the valve closes when I have it dialed alll the way to the negative (-). According to the post before this, it should be the other way around!!! I am confused and dont want to blow up my car!WHAT SHOULD I DO!!!
Look at the other post I directed to you.. The previous post is really close to what I wrote also.. and I personally have it installed off the turbo housing and not another vacuum source, FWIW I have the Hallman which doesn't seem to clarify what source to use.. But I have it off the turbo housing with no boost spiking..
