I just got a new ACT clutch put in about 1000 miles ago. I didn't really go hard on it until about 200 miles and there was the classic odor of burnt clutch just like the stock one. I had read that this was normal and should go away as the clutch breaks in. This is happening with just spirited driving and redline shifting NOT LAUNCHING at all. Stock I would only burn the stock clutch when I did a very hard launch and slipping it to much but just shifting at redline should not cause it. My next course of action is to adjust the clutch engagement down to see if that fixes it because the engadgement is very high, but I am not sure what else I can do and definetly don't wanna shell out again for a clutch. Any ideas for possible causes would be great. My mods are catback, intake, bov, mb 21psi not tuned yet so under 300hp for sure. Thanks

Edit: Problem Solved see page 2

 

Take out the clutch limit pill from the slave cylinder. Do a search. It makes the clutch grab much harder.

 

Oh yeah and I forgot to mention that I also installed a stainless clutch line with out the restrictor in it so that didn't fix it.

 

Yes, lower the pedal a LITTLE. Too much and you will grind gears. Sometimes as time elapses the pedal height raises slightly.

 

adjusted the pedal and the problem is still there any ideas guys?

 

Did you get anything on the disc before install????What about your flywheel? Is it resurfaced? Or is it a new flywheel?? Still a few more factors left until I would suggect contacting Actman....If the flywheel was not resurfaced or replaced, this could be the cause...Stock flywheels warp VERY easily...That is what happened with the stock setup...The disc was still ok but my flywheel was severly warped and this caused it to slip under load.

 

^ is 100% correct. I just went though what u went through. I got a new ACT HD and have like 2500 miles on it now and the first like 3 times i did some “spirited driving” (after the 250 mile break in period) i smelt burning clutch. after i broke the clutch in i also noticed some 4th gear lockout at high RPM so i brought the adjustment up (stock u saw about 6 threads on the adjustment rod, and I adjusted to about 3 threads showing). I didnt have anymore lockout but when i launched the car the clutch did not grab fully in first or second gear. I brought it back down to 5 threads showing and raced the other night and pulled 1.685 60fts (obviously it grabbed that time) and no lockout. It was a little hard to get into gears shifting but it made it in with sum muscle. I am going to back the rod out a little more (ill leave 4.5 threads showing) and I should be good. Hope this helps.

 

I had my act clutch put in back in june and didn't go over 10 psi for the first 500 miles. It was the hardest thing to do. I don't think you should be boosting or going anywhere near redline until you have fully broken it in. I have no rpm lockout issues and no burning smells ever, course i don't launch it.

 

Yes a new prostreet flywheel was installed at the same time as the clutch and all parts where clean as far as I know. I guess warping could be a possibility. There is no slipping what so ever and it grabs real hard. I can try adjusting the clutch down farther asuming I'm going the right direction (it is engaging closer and closer to the floor so it seems correct) and the clutch is fully disengaging as there is no problem getting into gear or grinding. It seems to me that the clutch is not fully engaging the flywheel and at high torque loads when I get into boost it is spinning the face on the flywheel. This suggest incomplete engagement or a warped disc. Anymore Ideas?

 

just adjust the rod to show 4.5 threads past the locknut and then go drive the car pretty hard and see how it feels with sum high rpm shifts. If its not to your satisfaction then adjust accordingly (if u get lockout then adjust the pedal higher, if its slipping with a launch then adjust lower), its gonna be a trial and error issue, nobody can really tell you "hey do this and everything will be perfect". also no matter how much u baby the clutch, the first couple times you beat in it, its gonna smell like burning clutch. You will smell it a few times an it should go away. no way around it.

 

I readjusted the clutch pedal again and now I am at the bottom of the rod. There is no lock out from gears and shifting is fine, but the problem is still there. And whats worse is when I took it for the first drive at around 4000 rpm in 2nd gear I hit this sudden power loss like something was jammed in the drivetrain. Very weird. The only thing done between last time I drove and this was the clutch rod adjustment. I have no idea what it was that could have caused it. I waited a few more miles of driving and then I got on it again with no problem of lockout and shifting was a little improved, but the Clutch burning is still occuring when I got finished with just a few redline shifts and WOT

 

When you are saying you have this "buring clutch smell" is it more like you could smell it like 20ft away from the car or only if u give the hood vent a sniff. I know everytime i drive my car hard i have the slight smell of clutch in my engine bay or a brief wiff of it as soon as i shut the car off and get out. It usually takes a few hours for this to go away.

 

Like I get out of my car and instantly hit with the smell. I would only get this with the stock clutch on very hard launches so yes it is pretty strong odor from a few feet away from engine

 

Really Tony, I noticed after the last autox that mine was slipping a little under load, could this be my issue? What did you put in instead? Thinking I may want to replace mine before spring.

 

Well all i can say i think u have a problem...i dont experience these problems and its kind of hard to make a diagnosis on a forum. Maybe time to talk to a mechanic at a local performance shop and have him take a look before its too late and ur $1100 or so u spent between the cluch and labor is out the window.