I ran a 2.4 for 15000 miles on the street. Car was driven very hard all the time. The ring seal was so good at 33psi (565whp) that I never needed a catch can. Just left the single vent hose dangle on top of the tranny. Are you aware the 2.4 specs are nearly identical to the srt4 engine? Do you think they would have made the engine like that if piston side loading/premature wear was a problem? Are you aware that piston side loading goes up as rpm goes up? So if the 2.0 is regularly spun 1000rpm higher than a 2.3/2.4 its not gonna last any longer than a 2.3.

 

I have the 2.4 Brian Crower kit being installed right now. I called and talked to brian about his kit and he said the in the u.k they rev there motors up to 9400rpm with no probs...as for how long they last i didnt ask him

 

No, a highway car will still need the revs. If you are doing 40-145mph runs for example a stroker will have hard time turning that type of rpm without shifting to 4th. IMO on a stock sized wheel. You see the difference in off boost power and spool up once it at full boost there is little to no difference and you lost 1500rpms in redline which is far more than the 300-500rpm you gain in spool up. This is especially true on very large turbos like a 42R you have to have the rpms.

IMO a 35R is the best of both worlds Buschur's car just proved that running a 9.97@142mph as well as AMS's track car running a stroker with 35R. Perfect combo IMO.

It all depends on the goal though

 

Has there been a thread started about "how long a built 2.0 lasts compared to a 2.3?"?? I started a little but didnt find anything

 

Comes down to the feeling that one wants when driving his car. THere are people out there who loves the response that the stroker offers and they are people out there who loves how the 2 litre revs to but on a daily affair driving on the street, ( coming out of having 2 different 35R setups before with the 2.0 and 2.3 now) the 2.3 is just exceptional in spool up and also the monstrous torque it offers. Bit of a disadvantage down the drags where ultimately 2.0 is still a better setup to drag due to rev issues. No reliability issues with properly prepared hardware for the 2.3 ( offset wrist pins, nitrided crank and etc..) compared to a 2.0. No doubt you can rev the 2.3 OCCASIONALLY past 8500 rpms but it is not good for the bottom end and will cause bearing failures if not taken care of... Best of both worlds would be the 2.2 litre with the 94 mm crank or a ' SPECIAL ' Mitsu 93 mm crank...

 

+1. I think i'm going to go with a built 2.0 because i want to get the most out of my 35r. The higher rev's will make me in boost longer and that will benifit me when the person im racing is shifting sooner than me.

 

with a big turbo go w/ a built 2.0

 

It depends on the kit on what spool time could be and it also depends on how well your motor was put togther. Ill give a full review once my motor is put togther. Ill be running a 2.3L one off ross piston setup they have no hp rateing and im not sure of the name of the rods but they are rated at 800+hp also going the block will be bored .20 over the motor will be o ringed as well and i will also use the new super dampaner by ATI. Spool time should be around 300-800rpm sonner then a 2.0L max rpm will be 8500 safely. And yes i will have a fully porting race head with the dual spring setup.

 

15,000 miles on the street is not alot of miles. No one is totally sure how relaible the stroker setup is. I am just saying that the sideloading is increased by ALOT with the stroker crankshaft and many dsm'ers have had premature failure due to the extra sideloading. Who knows, maybe the Evo block is just so much better than the old six bolt that it will never have problems being stroked? Only time will tell...

 

why dont we ask ams and br racing see what they say about this topic

 

i say theres a reason mitsu made it a 2.0l vs subys 2.5.....if its good enough to last you a rally race...its good enough to last for life...me i would go with a 2.0 but try to find someone to make you a aluminum block....this will lower your center of gravity and further reduce weight and even out weight distribution.....so the 300 rpm of tq are made up by the higher hp per lb ratio.....

 

I'm new to evo's, but all other platforms I have worked on have companies like aebs or darton offering sleeves which I would think would eliminate the durability problem of a stroker. Can you not get an evo block sleeved?

 

Its a cast iron block, you don't need to sleeve anything... its just basically the design of the 2.3 with an excessive long stroke with a non ideal rod ratio... block's fine.. if you keep the revs down, nothing will happen to it...

 

Trinababe hit 9k between shift a few timeFully stock motor except HKS 272 cam.I will take Magnus or SBR 2.1L Destorker since i love drag racing

 

sleeves are for wussies