Hesitation at 6k?
Hesitation at 6k?
Everytime I get on it at around 6000rpm my car breaks up real bad, it hesitates and I can hear a popping sound from the exhaust. Also, my hose from my wastegate keeps blowing off, I have a clamp around it but it keeps coming off, my boost gauge is showing 22psi, and it jumps past 30 at 5500. I havent changed a thing on my car and its been running great just up untill a few days ago. My mods are intake, tbe, mbc, cams, fuel pump, safc. It either fuel cuts at 6k or breaks up real bad. I am wondering if I just need to retune it, or if possible problem. No flash, just tuned with a wideband and safc. Any feedback on similar problems would be great, I searched but found nothing specific to this problem. Im hoping it is just a tune issue.
Why do you have such poorly mod combination.
Get rid of the intake, BOV and SAFC (its not a DSM)
Get a tune and you'll have a lot more power, with less mods (TBE, fuel pump, cams, flash)
But to answer your question, when your hose blow off the waste gate, you run like 30lbs and hit fuel cut or just knock like mad. You need to get the correct clamp, the one your using isn't right because if it was, the hose wouldnt blow off.
Go get the correct clamp (use one like the factory ones)
Get rid of the intake, BOV and SAFC (its not a DSM)
Get a tune and you'll have a lot more power, with less mods (TBE, fuel pump, cams, flash)
But to answer your question, when your hose blow off the waste gate, you run like 30lbs and hit fuel cut or just knock like mad. You need to get the correct clamp, the one your using isn't right because if it was, the hose wouldnt blow off.
Go get the correct clamp (use one like the factory ones)
uhh what is so wrong with my mod list? 1st of all I dont want a flash, I prefer a self tune instead. My stock bov had a crack in it and was leaking so I used a Bov off my sr20 to correct the problem. Problem solved, no money spent. I used a drop in filter, and I used a cone style, and i prefer cone style. I also went this way because in the near future I am going to need that room where the airbox is located.
TBE
Cams
Intake
MBC
Fuel pump
SAFC
bov
I dont see anything wrong with my list, for under $2000 my car runs consistent 12.2's and beats most evos with much more mods then me.
TBE
Cams
Intake
MBC
Fuel pump
SAFC
bov
I dont see anything wrong with my list, for under $2000 my car runs consistent 12.2's and beats most evos with much more mods then me.
Originally Posted by RazoEvo
uhh what is so wrong with my mod list? 1st of all I dont want a flash, I prefer a self tune instead. My stock bov had a crack in it and was leaking so I used a Bov off my sr20 to correct the problem. Problem solved, no money spent. I used a drop in filter, and I used a cone style, and i prefer cone style. I also went this way because in the near future I am going to need that room where the airbox is located.
TBE
Cams
Intake
MBC
Fuel pump
SAFC
bov
I dont see anything wrong with my list, for under $2000 my car runs consistent 12.2's and beats most evos with much more mods then me.
TBE
Cams
Intake
MBC
Fuel pump
SAFC
bov
I dont see anything wrong with my list, for under $2000 my car runs consistent 12.2's and beats most evos with much more mods then me.
Intake without a tune - Bad
SAFC - doesnt control timing, which mean less torque (of course this dont matter at the drag strip, its all HP)
any VTA BOV on a MAF equiped car - Bad
Thats why. Also, with ECUFlash out now, you can have a flash that is self tuned.
Originally Posted by Evo_Kid
Why is it such a bad mod list.....heres why.
Intake without a tune - Bad
SAFC - doesnt control timing, which mean less torque (of course this dont matter at the drag strip, its all HP)
any VTA BOV on a MAF equiped car - Bad
Thats why. Also, with ECUFlash out now, you can have a flash that is self tuned.
Intake without a tune - Bad
SAFC - doesnt control timing, which mean less torque (of course this dont matter at the drag strip, its all HP)
any VTA BOV on a MAF equiped car - Bad
Thats why. Also, with ECUFlash out now, you can have a flash that is self tuned.
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Originally Posted by RazoEvo
It is tuned, just not flashed. I gained more top end with a cone style then i did with a drop in, after a bunch of runs with different setups, the cone did better on all accounts. You dont need to pay someone for a flash when you can do it yourself and have almost all the same things. The SAFC, only on dsms? What are you talking about? I am not changing timing of any sort, the safc helps a TON at the dragstrip, especially in weather conditions like they are now. 80 degrees in the day and 50's at night. A device that allows you to fine tune and dial your car in to track conditions is well spent money if you ask me. The VTA bov is not something I would normally put on my car, but it was there, and its been working just fine for the time being. It has alittle flutterness to it, but that is expected, and it is not causing any major problems with drivability. That statement is not very true, if you are pushing 500+hp, and high boost conditions, you will most likely need to VTA for the maximum effeciency.
E-Flashes cost $50 now, ECUFlash (flashing program) is free & the cable is $90. so for 140 dollars you get a great base flash and the ability to fine tune. How much does a SAFC cost again (be sure to include the harness cost, too)??
I know your not touchin timing and thats why your car would dyno less torque then your car would with a flash.
At the drag strip your at high RPM, which is where the HP is, not torque. This is why you see imporvements at the strip. The SAFC does help you make HP, just as much as a flash. But its not only about HP (unless you own a honda
)VTA are bad for MAF sensor car. Period. Most 500+ HP cars go to speed desity or another way of messureing air coming into the engine.
The SAFC and DSM comment comes from alot of DSMers used the SAFC. When old DSMers bought EVOs, they wanted to slap on a SAFC, what not really the best idea.
I know the SAFC is unervirsal and works on many cars.
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