Hello all,

I don't get as much time as I would like to keep up on all the forums. I check our EVO forum every day and respond to all the comments/questions on it.

I have just spent some time reading about our HP results on here and want to set a couple of things straight.

Number one. AWD dyno's. We do not have one. We have a 2wd dynojet dyno. This is the same dyno we have owned for 5 years now. It is the same dyno we have dyno'd every single AWD/FWD/RWD car on that we have ever owned, raced or worked on. Until recently there have been no AWD dyno's. Everyone excepted these numbers. I will always except them, if for no other reason to compare what AWD cars make compared to FWD/RWD. The bottom line is I don't care about the peak number, I care about the increase in horsepower and torque over where I started on a car. I get this with our dyno.

I have seen numberous AWD dyno's spitting out EVO8 numbers in the 250 hp range. That is exactly what we started with 254hp and 260 ft lbs of torque. The other most important point is we have not increased the HP of the car to 343.9 hp, that is a 90 hp gain over stock. The dyno sheet is on the website for all to view.

We have also done this being very conservative. Our standard AFC settings that we supply to everyone is set up at 11.8-12.0:1 AFR on 94 octane pump gas. We made 331 hp like that. We then dumped in some race gas to the mi and continued tuning and messing with the boost. We then got the 343.9 hp. No tricks, NOT ON THE RAGGED EDGE.

Our goal is to make an awesome street car, not a drag car. We are catering to the street guys at this point with the car.

As far as exhausts go. We have a complete 100% 304 Stainless Steel exhaust for the car. Mandrel bent 3" tubing, every single piece of it is stainless, right down to the hangers. The entire system is $750 and it weighs in at 24 pounds, this is 36 pounds lighter than stock. As far as I can see there is NO OTHER choice in exhausts. It is light, low priced, will never rust and has a VERY quiet exhaust note at cruise and sounds aggressive as hell at WOT.

Our entire package to make 90 hp over stock, on any dyno is under $2,000.

If you made 200 hp on an AWD dyno and added these same parts the gain is still going to be 90 hp. This is what is important.

I would like to AWD dyno this just for laughs. I just know the numbers we got stock are the same as others on an AWD dyno, so stop worrying so much. The gains are what matter.

David Buschur
President
Buschur Racing, Inc.

 

i completly agree with you. as long as u are using the same dyno to set a baseline and when you add mods to the car you use the same dyno, you will see the same gain on any dyno.

i am curious as to how you turn the AWD off on the car to use the car on a 2wd dyno ? is their a fuse like on some of the skylines i have seen in japan ? or do you disconnect something in the transmition ?

thanks
-Nathan
www.rpmvideo.com

 

Well said David. I stand by your service, parts, and information 100%.

I started calling these guys even before anything was ready for our Evos. I have everything they offer for the Evo on my Evo. The whole 3" turbo back, clamps, S-AFC settings, the works. All with instructions that took no time for me to get the installs done. Upper I/C pipe with welded flange and MAF intake pipe assembly coming out soon which I will be getting. Along with the mini battery.

I will say that I haven't dyno'd my Evo but I will also say that it's hard not to notice the difference. And what a difference it is.

 

Heh heh. Claudius ordering parts from the US. Now wouldn't that be an interesting turn of events

 

Good work on getting the power up, but I have to nitpick this. Stainless steel is not rust-proof, it will oxidize under the right conditions like any other Iron-based metal will. It is only "rust-proof" if you can protect the non-ferrous coating, which is pretty difficult on the underside of a car, and nearly impossible if you drive anywhere that utilizes salt in the winter or make frequent short trips.

Otherwise, keep up the good work

 

It depends on what series of stainless steel he is using.
400 series will rust.
300 series will not rust.
Just about anything will oxidize, it may take 100 years though.

 

Stainless Steel, regardless of grade, relies on a sacrificial surface "coating" (poor word choice, but I can't think of the proper time at the moment) to prevent the iron from oxidizing. If you score the metal, this protection is gone, and it will rust the same as any other steel would. Acids and salts also tend to eat away this protection. And being on the underside of a car is a pretty good recipe for being scored (rocks and other debris) or getting a nice layer of salt eating away at it. Frequent heat-cycling can affect some grades as well.

For the most part, a good 300 SS (probably 304) won't visibly rust like a typical carbon steel, but that doesn't make it rust-proof. Stressed areas (bends) are still prone to early rusting. 409 SS (typical exhaust system SS) gets a light layer of surface rust that prevents it from rusting away completely, but it still rusts. The only way you can make something rust-proof is to not use Iron in it.

I guess my point is that "rust-proof" is a semantic, but it's misleading - any iron based metal will rust, but the degree it rusts can be limited.

 

WestSideBilly
Are thinking of a process called passivating?
It is an acid dip to remove any iron that may have been deposited by machine tooling.

PS I sell 303 stainless parts to a car wash builder. They haven't rusted in 20 years of use. Maybe cheap Chinese stainless made of melted down old car parts would have rusted.

 

Stainless steel is NOT a coating. Its a type of steel.

 

Thanks for clarifying the patently obvious. Do you know anything about metals? Stainless steel is "stainless" because the chromium in it corrodes first and creates a film of chromium oxide on the surface (the aforementioned coating), which prevents oxygen from getting to the iron. When you remove that layer of chromium oxide (by scoring the surface - with a stone, for example), the iron will oxidize same as always, and rust. Sure, a car wash is a great environment for stainless because the metal never sees anything that could damage the surface, just water and soaps. An exhaust system isn't so fortunate.

Anyway, I don't want to hijack Buschur's thread by arguing the semantics of rust-proof. If it has iron in it, it's not rust-proof. 303/304 have excellent resistence to corrosion, but they're not rust-proof. That's all there is to it.

 

...Suddenly reminds me of Superhonda Internet wars... or so I've "heard"... Glad to see the overabundance of metallurgy knowledge and how it applies to increased power output of the Evolution line.

 

I here you screamin.

 

Great write-up David
so, you are gaining 90 hp with an S-AFC & turbo back exhaust? and this is at stock boost?
also, have you done any dyno testing with a high-flow cat vs. straight through center pipe?