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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 02:59 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by vroomevo
hmm, i have very similar problem. i see oil-like spots just around junction btwn exhuast manifold and engine head. haven't paid much attn to it.
This would likely be different. Oil residue on ex manif can come from the exhaust manifold studs leaking. I get trace amounts right in the manifold gasket/head seam. Try tightening them

Originally Posted by vroomevo
btw, what is the blow by?
Passing mustangs real fast
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 03:32 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by C6C6CH3vo
This would likely be different. Oil residue on ex manif can come from the exhaust manifold studs leaking. I get trace amounts right in the manifold gasket/head seam. Try tightening them

Passing mustangs real fast
Oil residue in manifold is not from exhaust manifold studs leaking, that would be called exhaust leak. There are a number of other things that can cause oil in manifold like valve seals, valve guides, etc. The only thing that should go in the exhaust manifold is exhaust gas from combustion chamber which should get no oil if spark plugs grommets, valve guides, valve seals and piston rings are doing their job. Unless you got aftermarket pistons like JE that do consume oil slightly.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 03:54 PM
  #18  
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Definitely the headstuds. You can try retorqing them, however it probably will not solve the problem. The correct way to install headstuds is to remove the head, deck the head at a machine shop, and re-install the head with a new OEM gasket (or better). Once the headgasket seal has been compromised, it is VERY hard to re-seal it without removing the head and replacing it. This is why I don't recommend headstuds unless you plan on removing the head. Some people get away without having leaks, and some aren't so lucky. To be absolutely certain the headgasket is leaking, I recommend using coolant dye, and engine oil dye along with a UV light to visibly observe the leak. Good luck!
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tripperfx3
I dont think blow-by would be that bad... Did you check to see how much oil you might have lost? If it is the headstuds take it back to the shop and have them order you new headstuds and re-do it. You cant just re torque the headstuds. They are designed to strech once you install them. You'll have to get new ones.

not true. you dont have to get new ones. you are thinking of the torque to yield bolts.

ARP head studs are designed to be used multiple times once they are torqued to the right specifications. the head studs are designed to push the head onto the block whereas the bolts pull up on the block to the head to make a seal. this creates galling of the threads and provides a unaccurate torque reading.

torque to yield bolts are good to a certain extent and by no means are they "bad".

if they are bad, then youd better tell GM that their 505hp Z06 corvette is crap because that is what they use on their cylinder heads....
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 04:21 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by badhabit90
not true. you dont have to get new ones. you are thinking of the torque to yield bolts.

ARP head studs are designed to be used multiple times once they are torqued to the right specifications. the head studs are designed to push the head onto the block whereas the bolts pull up on the block to the head to make a seal. this creates galling of the threads and provides a unaccurate torque reading.

torque to yield bolts are good to a certain extent and by no means are they "bad".

if they are bad, then youd better tell GM that their 505hp Z06 corvette is crap because that is what they use on their cylinder heads....
well put
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 04:22 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by sonicnofadz
Definitely the headstuds. You can try retorqing them, however it probably will not solve the problem. The correct way to install headstuds is to remove the head, deck the head at a machine shop, and re-install the head with a new OEM gasket (or better). Once the headgasket seal has been compromised, it is VERY hard to re-seal it without removing the head and replacing it. This is why I don't recommend headstuds unless you plan on removing the head. Some people get away without having leaks, and some aren't so lucky. To be absolutely certain the headgasket is leaking, I recommend using coolant dye, and engine oil dye along with a UV light to visibly observe the leak. Good luck!

true.

you can try to retorque them first. you must loosen the nuts, apply moly lube and retorque them for proper reading.

you dont have to necissarily have to surface the head. just check for straightness. if you surface the head, you are now upping the compression by 1/4 to 1/2 a point. you can comprimise the compression ratio by installing a thicker head gasket, but at what expense??....it may not hold up as good.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 04:23 PM
  #22  
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thanks tarmac.../\
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 09:06 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by badhabit90
true.

you can try to retorque them first. you must loosen the nuts, apply moly lube and retorque them for proper reading.

you dont have to necissarily have to surface the head. just check for straightness. if you surface the head, you are now upping the compression by 1/4 to 1/2 a point. you can comprimise the compression ratio by installing a thicker head gasket, but at what expense??....it may not hold up as good.

The compression ratio will not change significantly by getting the head milled. I agree though, if a machine shop (don't try to check it yourself if you are inexperienced) agrees the deck surface is straight enough to be re-used, you should avoid having it re-surfaced.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 09:12 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by vroomevo
hmm, i have very similar problem. i see oil-like spots just around junction btwn exhuast manifold and engine head. haven't paid much attn to it.

btw, what is the blow by?
+1 I have the same oil spots.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 09:24 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by BBYBruno
+1 I have the same oil spots.
Hmmm... I've been doing some searching and found that this may not be head studs after all. It seems that oil in this area isn't so terribly rare on the Evo. So, how can I narrow down the issue? Compression check? I really would like to think TurboTrix knows how to properly install head studs. I'm also trying not jump to the worst possible scenario.


Then again, I may just not want to face the truth of having to take the frigging head off. +++++=
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 01:15 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Exciting News
Hmmm... I've been doing some searching and found that this may not be head studs after all. It seems that oil in this area isn't so terribly rare on the Evo. So, how can I narrow down the issue? Compression check? I really would like to think TurboTrix knows how to properly install head studs. I'm also trying not jump to the worst possible scenario.


Then again, I may just not want to face the truth of having to take the frigging head off. +++++=
I just had a compression check done and everything was fine.
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 07:41 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Exciting News
Hmmm... I've been doing some searching and found that this may not be head studs after all. It seems that oil in this area isn't so terribly rare on the Evo. So, how can I narrow down the issue? Compression check? I really would like to think TurboTrix knows how to properly install head studs. I'm also trying not jump to the worst possible scenario.


Then again, I may just not want to face the truth of having to take the frigging head off. +++++=
A leaking head gasket is a leaking head gasket...it will get worse over time. So many people have this problem because they install headstuds incorrectly. If you can deal with the coolant/oil consumption, then just leave it be. A leaking headgasket won't always show up by testing compression. Try using some UV dye and a blacklight (while the engine is running) to see where the leak is coming from. You can get the dye from autozone for 6.99 a bottle (use it in engine oil or coolant). After the dye test, you will know for sure where it is coming from. Don't jump to conclusions, maybe the oil got there from some other spot. You might want to drain your oil and inspect it to see if any coolant mixed with it, and you might want to drain your coolant to see if there is any oil mixed in with it. This would also confirm that the headgasket is shot.

Last edited by sonicnofadz; Oct 18, 2006 at 07:45 AM.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 12:15 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by C6C6CH3vo
This would likely be different. Oil residue on ex manif can come from the exhaust manifold studs leaking. I get trace amounts right in the manifold gasket/head seam. Try tightening them
Exhaust manifold studs leaking? Leaking what? LOL
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 05:50 PM
  #29  
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From: sc
The exhaust manifold is sealed tight with the exhaust ports coming out - not the source of oil. The holes the manifold studs go into are.

The oil can leak internally along the threads making it's way to the manifold. If you (machaunga and razorlab) were able to hold a wrench - you could pull one of your exh studs all the way out and see for yourself -


Which is not the case here, sounds like he's leaking oil from the head. What you wrote shows your leaking "mechnically disabled" from the head

Last edited by C6C6CH3vo; Oct 23, 2006 at 06:09 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 08:24 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by C6C6CH3vo
The exhaust manifold is sealed tight with the exhaust ports coming out - not the source of oil. The holes the manifold studs go into are.

The oil can leak internally along the threads making it's way to the manifold. If you (machaunga and razorlab) were able to hold a wrench - you could pull one of your exh studs all the way out and see for yourself -


Which is not the case here, sounds like he's leaking oil from the head. What you wrote shows your leaking "mechnically disabled" from the head
So you are saying the threaded holes for the studs are either drilled all the way into the head where oil is or drilled through an oil passage? Top studs or bottom ones?
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