forge rs problem?
With too much preload adjustment above and beyond a level at which the engine is generating enough vacuum (referenced from the intake manifold) to pull the piston open at idle, the piston in the valve will remain closed.
When using an atmospheric valve, you want the valve to remain shut, preventing the loss of off-idle boost pressure (metered air).
With a recirculating setup, you want the valve to open at idle, maintaining the recirculating function of the OEM closed loop system.
It seems quite odd that only 5 clicks would prevent the valve from opening at idle. This is a pretty minimal level of adjustment. It might be that your valve needs to be taken apart, cleaned, and relubricated. The piston might not be lubricated sufficiently and moving freely enough causing this issue.
That's all I can think of off hand. Give it a try and give me a call with your results.
When using an atmospheric valve, you want the valve to remain shut, preventing the loss of off-idle boost pressure (metered air).
With a recirculating setup, you want the valve to open at idle, maintaining the recirculating function of the OEM closed loop system.
It seems quite odd that only 5 clicks would prevent the valve from opening at idle. This is a pretty minimal level of adjustment. It might be that your valve needs to be taken apart, cleaned, and relubricated. The piston might not be lubricated sufficiently and moving freely enough causing this issue.
That's all I can think of off hand. Give it a try and give me a call with your results.
With the valve in the full loose position, I hear a quick metallic 'clink' if I build a little boost pressure and abruptly lift the throttle. I'm not absolutely certain it's coming from the valve, but I don't hear it if I tighten it. I can't imagine there is much of anything inside the unit that can malfunction, so perhaps opening the unit and lubricating it isn't a bad idea.
I haven't had a need nor urge to disassmble one of these, but unless there is some mystery to it, I'll assume it's fairly straightforward. . .
I haven't had a need nor urge to disassmble one of these, but unless there is some mystery to it, I'll assume it's fairly straightforward. . .
Originally Posted by Ted B
Now here is something of which mrdevo and Mike should both be aware:
I've began having some mysterious idle issues which are puzzling. Even with the BISS screw completely seated, the car will not idle at less than 1600rpm. This is weird, as nothing has changed with the tune, and a pressure check didn't reveal anything amiss.
I use a Forge RS. Like many, I like its construction and adjustability. However, I made an important observation today. Going from the loosest to tightest settings involves 48 clicks. I was 8 clicks from the tightest setting. Just for kicks today, I went all the way to the loosest setting, and presto, no more idle problem. I fiddled with it and came to the conclusion that anything more than ~5 clicks from full loose causes the idle issue to suddenly reoccur.
I invite any educated commentary as to why this is the case.
Mrdevo, when you reinstall the Forge unit, try it on both full tight and full loose and report any differences.
I've began having some mysterious idle issues which are puzzling. Even with the BISS screw completely seated, the car will not idle at less than 1600rpm. This is weird, as nothing has changed with the tune, and a pressure check didn't reveal anything amiss.
I use a Forge RS. Like many, I like its construction and adjustability. However, I made an important observation today. Going from the loosest to tightest settings involves 48 clicks. I was 8 clicks from the tightest setting. Just for kicks today, I went all the way to the loosest setting, and presto, no more idle problem. I fiddled with it and came to the conclusion that anything more than ~5 clicks from full loose causes the idle issue to suddenly reoccur.
I invite any educated commentary as to why this is the case.
Mrdevo, when you reinstall the Forge unit, try it on both full tight and full loose and report any differences.
When i did have it on for a few days, i had it tightened almost all the way and had no idle problems or anything whatsoever for 5 days. One night the throttle just seemed to stick on half/full throttle shifts. I will put it back on just to see, either tomorrow or on saturday, and drive with it tightened a good deal and with it loose. I will let you all know any differences.
Originally Posted by Ted B
I haven't had a need nor urge to disassmble one of these, but unless there is some mystery to it, I'll assume it's fairly straightforward. . .
mike@forgemotorsport.com
Update on the reinstallation of the rs valve- I put it back on at around noon today. I set it to roughly 28 clicks and have been out a good portion of the afternoon. Throughout the afternoon, it ran fine. Dropped off a friend and got on it to see what would happen...and what do you know, the rpms shot a few hundred up as i was shifting. Nothing new to me, I put it in second and hammered it...throttle slightly stuck again. This is a tight setting. Previously, right when the original problem was noticed, i switched it to the lightest setting and it did help a little bit so I believe the tighter, the worse it will be. I have decided to stick with the mr dv because it has held up to the task of meth. The forge purchase had the intention of holding boost better and even though it might, the trade-off is not worth it to me. I hate having these issues on my car. There are no other issues with the valve, though. My idle is fine and everything is what it should be. I just can't take the sticky throttle. Going to reinstall the mr dv right now and reset the ecu to get what I had back. Any comment welcome
Originally Posted by Mike@Forge
It's quite simple, but if you would like the assembly instructions, I'm happy to forward them to you. Just send me an e-mail request.
mike@forgemotorsport.com
mike@forgemotorsport.com
