My mechanic took the stock turbo off my buddies 2003 Evo VIII and the Propeller has alot of play in it... What would cause that and should i just replace the seals or the whole turbo?

Well after waking i here the thing about the propeller, which I checked and it was not bad,so I am leting you know i did not post this. It was another person under my account. Well the car is smoking white through the exhuast, and it has done it out of the blue. we stope driving the car asap and put it in the air and checked the oil nd for leak under the car, and it was just loww, so we filled it up and started it and it was not smoking. Then we back out on the garage and it started smoking, so we rolled it back in, and started looking for a problem. seems to start smoking when you give it some gas and the turbo spools. Could the turbo be bad or the seal? Could oil be blowing by into the exhuast? If i have searched right the turbo is not oil cooled. so why would white smoke come out of the exhuast. Car starts fine does not over heat, you can drive i but we have not due to smoking,all the fluids look fine, we did find a lose oil line under the car. Any input would be great.

 

Ur turbo is done, inadequate lube or cooling, play=bad, get a new compressor

 

Ball Bearing Turbos Have A Little Play In Them But The Stock Has Barely Any, So Urs Is Beat Street

 

your turbo is not necessarily done, and ball bearing turbos have LESS play than journal bearing style turbos like the stocker.

Play in the radial direction is NORMAL, and a misconception by many on Evom is that a turbo should have NO play. That's not true.

Do a google search, and you can find several reputable and well respected vendors who can explain it better than I can. Here's a single excerpt from an evom vendor's website....

"The shaft in my turbo feels loose. How much freeplay should I have?
While this specification does vary from one brand to another and rule of thumb is less than .030" radial freeplay and less that .002" axial freeplay.
This amount of freeplay is required to allow the bearings to "float" in a pressurized film of oil while the engine is running. The flow of oil through the clearance around the bearings is what helps the bearings stay cool. This oil film around the bearings also help dampen vibrations that occur to the rotating assembly as it moves through it range of RPM. Ball bearing turbochargers do not have this pressurized film of oil around the bearings; this is why they are somewhat more noisy than floating journal bearing turbos. "

 

Great explaination dubble ugly

 

Bump for more information in the first post. PLEASE read

 

Had a similar problem. The white smoke came out of the exhaust when the turbo spooled up and I let off the gas to shift up. Turns out the turbo had been overspun due to a defective stock EVO 8 BOV. There was oil dripping down the outside of the downpipe from damage done to the turbo (and after having inspected it, the propeller had a little too much play--my tuner, Alfred, from Tuning Tech, showed me mine vs the correct amount of play from a new stock turbo). Alfred replaced the bad BOV with an EVO 9 BOV and replaced the Turbo with a new stocker--problem solved.

Take that for what it's worth; don't know if you have the same prob or not.

 

So would this be covered under the powertrain warrenty or not? If so we will go to the dealer and have some nice words with them and see if the will meet me half way, but i think they should replace the turbo. WHY, because under warrenty they had to replace the bottom of the block were the cylinders are because one of the pistons became egg shaped they said.

Everything on the car is stock besides the two gauges, and turbo timer.

 

This is not something that you need to guess or speculate about. I have not looked up what the Mitsubishi specification is but most turbos allow 0.003-0.006 radial play. Folks, this is noticable play if you put your finger on the end of the turbo and try to move it radially. It is also measurable with a dial indicator. Longitudinal play will be much less. At least, it is much less on the two good Mitsu turbos that I own. There is no need to speculate about whether the turbo is toast. If there is any sign that the blades have contacted with the housings on either the turbine side or the compressor side then your turbo is definitely toast. Turbos are easy to remove and disassemble and check. However, they are not user servicable because they require specialized equipment and extremely exact balancing if they are ever disassembled or a blade is damaged.

 

Ok That was some good info so does this get covered under the warrenty for powertrain, Aslo we found a lose oil line under the car. So what should we look for? the turbo looks nice the play is fine, and it all in all looks good, but could there be oil blowing by and into the hot side to the down pipe, which make it smoke? or am I wrong. I need hella info before i take it into the dealer.

 

White smoke in your exhaust can often mean that you've blown a head gasket and are burning antifreeze. Sometimes you can actually smell it. The whiter the smoke, the more likely it's the head gasket. You can do a coolant pressure test and see, or a leak down test. In more obvious blown headgaskets, you'll find coolant in the oil, and oil in the coolant, if you drain them. You'd not want to drive it much this way, as you can, in some cases, hydrolock your engine and damage it internally. If what you're seeing is more towards blue smoke, then you'd look for areas where oil would be burning. That can occur because of blown seals in your turbocharger, which allow oil from the lubricating parts of the turbo to be sucked into the engine (through the intake) and burned. That could explain your low engine oil, but you'd also probably find oil in your intercooler piping and maybe if you pulled your upper intercooler pipe to the throttle body you'd see it there as well. You could have some sort of external oil leak that is coming in contact with hot engine parts and burning, but that would not be routed through your exhaust and show up as "white smoke". If you're bottom end was replaced under warranty, and they did not throughly clean your oil cooler and turbocharger oil passages, you could have had residual metal particles in the oil lines and passages, which have now damaged other parts. I'd have someone who knew what they were doing take a careful look at your overall engine condition.

Finally, I have no idea what a "propeller" is on an Evo, unless you've modified it for occasional boating use. The English call the drive shaft a propeller shaft, but I don't think you have excessive play there. The wheels in a turbocharger are usually referred to as a "turbine" wheel (on the "hot" exhaust side) and a compressor wheel (on the intake side).

 

As posted above, antifreeze will cause massive amounts of what looks like steam to come out of the tail pipe. However you should be using a lot of antifreeze if this were happening. On the intake stroke the leaking cylinder will pull some antifreeze in with the air. If the leak is only on compression you will presurize you coolong system and push coolant out of the radiator cap and into your overflow tank.

If you have been running high boost a blown head gasket is a distinct possibility. There is a fiber optic camera called a boreoscope or something like that. It can be put through a spark plug hole and the combustion chamber can be examined with the camera. If you were drawing antifreeze through a blown head gasket, one or more of your cylinders will look very clean almost like brand new. I'm not really sure how this happens but I know for sure that it does happen .

 

That is often the case, but by no means always. Sometimes the head gasket leak will only pass coolant under boost. I've seen cars with that condition run 10s... just don't assume that you'll have huge amounts of coolant loss in all cases. Sometimes it just drinks it slowly and you run short and then really blow the gasket because of the extra pressure caused by overheating.

It happens due to the same "steam cleaning" effect as occurs with water or methanol injection. Again, this might be a outcome you can see in some cases, but it's not a definitive test. If you pressure test the coolant system, or do a leakdown test (pressurizing the cylinder through the spark plug hole, measuring the "leak down" pressures, and also listening for disruptions in the coolant system and/or watching for bubbles in the radiator/overflow, or checking for excess pressure in other adjacent cylinders, you'll be well on your way to finding out if your cylinder head gasket is OK or in need of replacement.

Good luck.

 

well looking at the code it is pullig, this is what the cade read
"P0401: EGR Flow Insufficient Detected" could this be the problem, a bad EGR? I am going to search for a bit.

 

Well come to find out the oil has alot of radiator fluid in it, and so It seems that the headgasket is blown, so we are going to take it to the mitsu dealer and see if it is covered under the power train warrenty, the car only has a turbo timmer, and two gauges on it. So they should take care of it. I will update you all on the problem. Looks like if they fix it they will need to replace the head gasket or head, or maybe the engine if oil and the raditor fluid is mixed in the engine, But this should be covered under the warrenty. I hope that they fix it. this would be the third motor put in the car.

History:

First owner about 35-45 AGE: motor blown and something with the tranny, Mitsu replace the motor and tranny with 04 motor and tranny,

Secound owner 25 AGE: fuel problem and made one of the cylinders egg shaped, replace the lower block , they did not touch the head or turbo. they also said the clutch and flywheel was bad and it was 600 to replace it.

Now NRRACING has the car and seems the head gasket has blown, there is radiator fluid in the oil, and there was oil in the UICP, the car has been boosting at 12 PSI for about 5 months, so boost would not be the problem.