I'm on days now. I'll PM you my cell number cuz I'll be on base around your lunch time anyway.

 

i'm having the same problem as you.i have a exedy stage 1 and light flywheel.i put a ams front motor mount and the problem is much better.do what evo8dad said you have to fluctuate the clutch and gas better.mine does it when i hold the clutch down to long when im in 1 gear. if i pull it out quicker it doesnt happen.also try to adust you clutch mine almost releases at the top.i used to have at the bottom.the bottom line is my car does it sometimes when i dont fluctuate the clutch right.just get yourself a ams motor mount.helps alot

 

Yes it does but uses a 10mm instead of 11 and is 97inch lbs I believe. Just make sure you know that the reservoir pours into the clutch master ONLY when break fluid is about 1 inch over max, yes, thats right, when fluid is one inch over "max" line will the fluid spill over into the master cyl

If you have original fluid in there, you cant really add any because you don't know if its 3 or 4 DOT and you can't mix.

I just said "hell with it" and flushed a quart of that ATE 580 degree stuff and bled the breaks too (what a pain in the ***). I will bleed everything agian here in a week for it seems I can't ever get rid of the tiny bubbles

 

here ya go! http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPa...032d53a9da40f2
i just used some valvoline synthetic from autozone, it mixed fine, no problems.

 

ill do this later but i finally got 500 on it and now when i drive it hard its hard to get into 2nd... with the pedal adjusted out....??

 

like it says on TRE's website, the true test is with all 4 wheels off the ground, 3 inches before engagement. it's the only true way to know your pedal is adjusted properly. did you do this? remember if it's too high you will overextend your slave cylinder.

 

ill do that and maybe it will fix my second gear.... and try the motor mount

 

definitely make sure all mounts are tight.

 

keep us updated on this. I am about to install the same clutch and a lightened flywheel.

 

How about put on an incline that barely allow car to coast (kinda have to push) in neutral and the moment the car stops is the same as when they start moving on jacks? TRE?

 

Yeah, just got my ACT/Fidanza in today and I'm having the same problem too. Gonna try adjusting the clutch tomorrow when the light is out...Holy christ the car is even more harder to drive when I first got it. Now it seems like its either gonna launch out or not at all, absolutely dreadful to drive.

 

http://www.teamrip.com/clutch%20adjustment.html
it's much easier to tell the actual engagement point with the wheels off the ground than on the ground, less resistance.

 

so is it not good to have the pedal start to engage a few inches off the floor?? i have it adjusted close to the floor but its still easy to get into gear...

 

from what i hear it's harder on your synchros. TRE are expert mitsu trans builders, so if they say 3", then i set it 3", ya know what i mean?

 

I just installed an Exedy Stage 1 organic clutch and lightweight flywheel. I had a rattle early on, but fixed it by tightening the motor mounts. You have to keep in mind how tight they need to be to keep the engine from moving around with all that power. Make sure they are very tight. I also had a clutch smell, more often at first, not nearly as much now that the clutch is broken in. I have no rattles, or had no rattles until I slammed my car into some speed bumps thanks in part to a set of Tein S-Tech springs. I think I need to adjust my clutch but I cant see jack under the panel that covers the pedals. If I could see it, I'd adjust the pedal myself. Do I need to remove the panel to do this? My clutch engages very early, almost as soon as I let off the clutch, so early that the first time I drove after the clutch install, the car stalled