Greddy Type s BOV problems, any help?
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Originally posted by 93civEJ1
ok, well driving home on the way to work today with the new Type S recirced single springed and so on, i was in 5th and decided to punch it, have noticed that my boost now likes to fluctuate up and down, also with it WOT...i was hitting full boost when all of a sudden my car started to jerk and felt weird for a second. Looked at the SAFCII after getting home and noticed my knock count in the 200's...its never been out of double digit knock counts until today. WTF happened.... also how can i tell if it is leaking boost?? or can i?? it vents off easy when building low boost, below 10psi, it lets a loud whistle back into the intake. If i WOT full boost, and shift or release the throttle then i cant really hear crap. I wonder if i need to put the other spring in as well or need to do some more adjusting on the screw with the single spring ??? Also did a run tonight on the way back from school, knock was in the 100's why would this bov change all this all a sudden with it recirced??? my adjustment?? can someone help me with all this??? thanks!!!!
ok, well driving home on the way to work today with the new Type S recirced single springed and so on, i was in 5th and decided to punch it, have noticed that my boost now likes to fluctuate up and down, also with it WOT...i was hitting full boost when all of a sudden my car started to jerk and felt weird for a second. Looked at the SAFCII after getting home and noticed my knock count in the 200's...its never been out of double digit knock counts until today. WTF happened.... also how can i tell if it is leaking boost?? or can i?? it vents off easy when building low boost, below 10psi, it lets a loud whistle back into the intake. If i WOT full boost, and shift or release the throttle then i cant really hear crap. I wonder if i need to put the other spring in as well or need to do some more adjusting on the screw with the single spring ??? Also did a run tonight on the way back from school, knock was in the 100's why would this bov change all this all a sudden with it recirced??? my adjustment?? can someone help me with all this??? thanks!!!!
Im having the same problem as you. Driving around town, everything works just fine. But if i get on the highway for a long time, around 3500RPM, especially in 5th gear the car starts to jerk. I dont have a boost guage to tell what that looks like. But i do also have the safc2. With the stock BOV i never had more than a 11 reading for knock....now its gone as high as 52.
Last edited by BlueByYou; Apr 15, 2004 at 09:23 AM.
Originally posted by BlueByYou
Im having the same problem as you. Driving around town, everything works just fine. But if i get on the highway for a long time, around 3500RPM, especially in 5th gear the car starts to jerk. I dont have a boost guage to tell what that looks like. But i do also have the safc2. With the stock BOV i never had more than a 11 reading for knock....now its gone as high as 52.
Im having the same problem as you. Driving around town, everything works just fine. But if i get on the highway for a long time, around 3500RPM, especially in 5th gear the car starts to jerk. I dont have a boost guage to tell what that looks like. But i do also have the safc2. With the stock BOV i never had more than a 11 reading for knock....now its gone as high as 52.
Add more fuel!!
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Yeah, I wish i knew EXACTLY where the stalling problem was. Today however i did notice one of the screws holding the BOV together was coming out!
My CEL was coming on becuase of this i think so when I
I tightned that down and reset the ECU, and everything worked fine from that point on.
I also tightned the adjustment screw a quarter turn, but im guessing that the other thing is what made the difference.
My CEL was coming on becuase of this i think so when I
I tightned that down and reset the ECU, and everything worked fine from that point on.
I also tightned the adjustment screw a quarter turn, but im guessing that the other thing is what made the difference.
Last edited by BlueByYou; Apr 19, 2004 at 12:04 AM.
I experienced the same mid-rpm bucking as you described as well as the occasional idle instability. I am also running the single spring modification with minimum tension (screw set at about 1 turn after initial contact). My problem was traced to a vacuum leak from the adjustment screw that caused the valve to close when it should have remained open. Most vendors recommend sealing the hose fitting and adjustment screw threads with teflon tape (didn't work for me). I ended up preadjusting the spring tension and then sealing the adjustment screw with RTV silicon sealant under the washer and locking nut. Worked like a champ. No more problems. For an indepth discussion about the Greddy Type-S check out Silver Surfer's thread . It contains everything you ever wanted to know about blow-off and diverter valves.
Good luck.
Good luck.
I have the same jerk actions somtimes. I put locktite on the allen screws on the bov. The jerk action is the same as stock. My stock bov did the same thing so I do not think anything bad on it. Also with the s-afc knock reading, I get anywhere from 1-9 knock on idle and on full throttle I get about 70-100 depending on the temputure. But its been like that ever since i got it fron buschur with there settings. No problems with it. I am running 2 springs with adjustment screw about half way down. Holds like a champ 
how do you know your valve is leaking? you don't, unless you dyno then switch and dyno again. boost leak means your turbo is working hard to provide you with teh same amount of boost. sure it's not a big deal... but some people want perfection and efficiency, not to mention upgrade paths for the future.