Greddy Type s BOV problems, any help?
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i mentioned the type r, because i know that it's for higher boost levels, thinking it would be stiffer for us, but forgot how high of boost levels it was for. I couldn't fix the problem on my type s, no matter how i adjusted it. I got it both too loose and too tight, and still wouldn't help. Is it something do with the diaphram in the BOV leaking under light load? I remember the greddy BOV on my accord (vented to atmosphere, no MAF to worry about on a honda), seemed to stay open. You could rev it in neutral, and actively hear the whistle of air still coming from the BOV as if the diaphram wasn't shut all the way, idle would drop, etc.....
but on the accord, when i finally adjusted the BOV for the proper boost level (or so it seemed, with the least amount of surge possible), i would notice that even at idle the diaphram would stay open and seem to leak. It would seem as if that's the same as what is happening here, where the pressure leaks, thus dropping the amount of air going into the motor, and the idle dropping.
but on the accord, when i finally adjusted the BOV for the proper boost level (or so it seemed, with the least amount of surge possible), i would notice that even at idle the diaphram would stay open and seem to leak. It would seem as if that's the same as what is happening here, where the pressure leaks, thus dropping the amount of air going into the motor, and the idle dropping.
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actually thinking about it.. I only have the top side connected on the BOV.
There are 2 nipples on the TYPE-S..
I bet if i connected the one on the body to the WG line it would actuate the BOV faster and fix the low boost situation.. I will be testing this tonight..
-Zach
There are 2 nipples on the TYPE-S..
I bet if i connected the one on the body to the WG line it would actuate the BOV faster and fix the low boost situation.. I will be testing this tonight..
-Zach
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The reason it is happening is because of the A/F Ratios. The adjustment is made for more air, but is being blown off, so the car runs extremely rich for a quick second, and then recovers.
I have the Type-R on mine, very tight, blowing to the atmosphere and it has no hesitation or stumble unless I am at full boost and push in the clutch.
I have the Type-R on mine, very tight, blowing to the atmosphere and it has no hesitation or stumble unless I am at full boost and push in the clutch.
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Originally posted by AustinEvo8
The reason it is happening is because of the A/F Ratios. The adjustment is made for more air, but is being blown off, so the car runs extremely rich for a quick second, and then recovers.
I have the Type-R on mine, very tight, blowing to the atmosphere and it has no hesitation or stumble unless I am at full boost and push in the clutch.
The reason it is happening is because of the A/F Ratios. The adjustment is made for more air, but is being blown off, so the car runs extremely rich for a quick second, and then recovers.
I have the Type-R on mine, very tight, blowing to the atmosphere and it has no hesitation or stumble unless I am at full boost and push in the clutch.
No.. i already explained above i am running it recirculated..
And why are you running a TYPE-R???? the TYPE-S is good for 30PSI!!!!
-Zach
#21
We have been manufacturing valves for the Evo lineup for years. Both recirculating Diverter valves (stock) and BOV's supplied with a blanking plug. We have concentrated more on the VW/Audi side of the company here in the states BUT we are moving strongly into the subaru and mitsubishi markets with the introduction of US spec wrx's and evolutions. We also offer a lifetime warranty and the valves are available in either black anodised or polished. You will be seeing alot more of us and our developments over the next few months.
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He said he had it setup so that it's recirculating, not VTA, so unless he has something wrong, the A/F ratio should be normal. However, the symptoms do seem to go along with similar problems with people using VTA.
This is an interesting issue. There are people experiencing problems using both types of BOV, and there are quite a few people here who have had no problems using VTA either. Hmmm...
This is an interesting issue. There are people experiencing problems using both types of BOV, and there are quite a few people here who have had no problems using VTA either. Hmmm...
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Originally posted by Liandrin11
He said he had it setup so that it's recirculating, not VTA, so unless he has something wrong, the A/F ratio should be normal. However, the symptoms do seem to go along with similar problems with people using VTA.
This is an interesting issue. There are people experiencing problems using both types of BOV, and there are quite a few people here who have had no problems using VTA either. Hmmm...
He said he had it setup so that it's recirculating, not VTA, so unless he has something wrong, the A/F ratio should be normal. However, the symptoms do seem to go along with similar problems with people using VTA.
This is an interesting issue. There are people experiencing problems using both types of BOV, and there are quite a few people here who have had no problems using VTA either. Hmmm...
The only problem i have is at low boost or part throttle before boost builds is that it does not open and it doesn't want to idle..
I believe this is because the spring is to tight for that low of pressure..
That is why i am going to hookup the lower nipple on the type-s.. i think it goes to the WG line.. (need to check for sure)
That should hopfully fix the problem.. I will try it tonight and post back.
At full boost or enought to blow off correctly it works perfectly fine.
-Zach
#24
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Originally posted by zyounker
Ok, the reason i put a BOV on my EVO is because the POS stock plastic one leaks. Bucher picked up 4rwhp & 7ft/lbs torque changing it..
Ok, the reason i put a BOV on my EVO is because the POS stock plastic one leaks. Bucher picked up 4rwhp & 7ft/lbs torque changing it..
RMR is telling me that they use that stock bov on full bore rally cars
#25
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Originally posted by zyounker
actually thinking about it.. I only have the top side connected on the BOV.
There are 2 nipples on the TYPE-S..
I bet if i connected the one on the body to the WG line it would actuate the BOV faster and fix the low boost situation.. I will be testing this tonight..
-Zach
actually thinking about it.. I only have the top side connected on the BOV.
There are 2 nipples on the TYPE-S..
I bet if i connected the one on the body to the WG line it would actuate the BOV faster and fix the low boost situation.. I will be testing this tonight..
-Zach
#26
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Originally posted by zyounker
The only problem i have is at low boost or part throttle before boost builds is that it does not open and it doesn't want to idle..
I believe this is because the spring is to tight for that low of pressure..
That is why i am going to hookup the lower nipple on the type-s.. i think it goes to the WG line.. (need to check for sure)
That should hopfully fix the problem.. I will try it tonight and post back.
At full boost or enought to blow off correctly it works perfectly fine.
-Zach
The only problem i have is at low boost or part throttle before boost builds is that it does not open and it doesn't want to idle..
I believe this is because the spring is to tight for that low of pressure..
That is why i am going to hookup the lower nipple on the type-s.. i think it goes to the WG line.. (need to check for sure)
That should hopfully fix the problem.. I will try it tonight and post back.
At full boost or enought to blow off correctly it works perfectly fine.
-Zach
#28
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Originally posted by evilgixxer
can't adjust mine, got it from pruven. It turns off everytime i'm turning. Plus, I can't stop the fluttering.
can't adjust mine, got it from pruven. It turns off everytime i'm turning. Plus, I can't stop the fluttering.
Mine shuts off when i turn and and slowing to a stop sometimes also
Hopefully adding the second line to the other hole will help - - I am anxious to hear back from the guy who is testing it
#29
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Mine leaked at 16 psi put it on a flow bench and tested it. So I am now runing the Blitz. I do notice some stumbles now and then but that is only when I am in traffic and it has never died. Oh and on a different not I did gain a ten and 2 mph by changing out my BOV in the quarter.
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Ok, it seems to have fixed the problem!!!!!
So don't throw them away yet
I hooked the smaller lower nipple from the body to the WG line and the other to the stock connector..
This changes the sound quite abit and makes the accuation of the bov much faster..
.
As for the evidence that it leaks, that was according to bucher on the dyno.. they picked up 4whp & 7ft/lbs torque changing it..
I think that was at 19 psi
And i also noticed a difference..
-Zach
So don't throw them away yet
I hooked the smaller lower nipple from the body to the WG line and the other to the stock connector..
This changes the sound quite abit and makes the accuation of the bov much faster..
.
As for the evidence that it leaks, that was according to bucher on the dyno.. they picked up 4whp & 7ft/lbs torque changing it..
I think that was at 19 psi
And i also noticed a difference..
-Zach