Bottom End Built
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Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 183
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From: Grand Cayman
Bottom End Built
If you wanted to build your whole bottom end what parts would you need to build the whole thing with out having to go n reopen the bottom half. pistons, rods etc.
What brands you guys recommend?
if i was to change my pistons and rods, would i have to change my crank or is the stock on on my Evo 3 good enuff?
What brands you guys recommend?
if i was to change my pistons and rods, would i have to change my crank or is the stock on on my Evo 3 good enuff?
Last edited by CaymanEvo3; Nov 23, 2006 at 08:00 AM.
Originally Posted by CaymanEvo3
If you wanted to build your whole bottom end what parts would you need to build the whole thing with out having to go n reopen the bottom half. pistons, rods etc.
What brands you guys recommend?
What brands you guys recommend?
Originally Posted by CaymanEvo3
If you wanted to build your whole bottom end what parts would you need to build the whole thing with out having to go n reopen the bottom half. pistons, rods etc.
What brands you guys recommend?
What brands you guys recommend?
It all depends on your hp goal with the car.
A simple setup would be
eagle rods , wiseco pistons, stock crank as long as its 100% in good shape, rod bareings and a ati dampaner oh yea almost forgot a good set of motor mounts.
Now what the other guy about building the car with the motor still in the car is only if your core is at 100% as well that means a well kept car no wall groves if the block needs boreing out then you have to pull it out. This is something that your shop will let you know once they take a good look at it.
Now a all out setup would be the same as the first one but you would have to upgrade the rods to a higher rated hp setup like oliver or pauter. As well as the pistons need to be upgraded with a ross setup. And last not least the crank a K1 or eagle will do.
Follow theses steps and you will have one killer setup with proper care it will last as long as you want it to. Keep up with your motor up keep like checking the compression from time to time and change the piston rings if needed all that good stuff.
A simple setup would be
eagle rods , wiseco pistons, stock crank as long as its 100% in good shape, rod bareings and a ati dampaner oh yea almost forgot a good set of motor mounts.
Now what the other guy about building the car with the motor still in the car is only if your core is at 100% as well that means a well kept car no wall groves if the block needs boreing out then you have to pull it out. This is something that your shop will let you know once they take a good look at it.
Now a all out setup would be the same as the first one but you would have to upgrade the rods to a higher rated hp setup like oliver or pauter. As well as the pistons need to be upgraded with a ross setup. And last not least the crank a K1 or eagle will do.
Follow theses steps and you will have one killer setup with proper care it will last as long as you want it to. Keep up with your motor up keep like checking the compression from time to time and change the piston rings if needed all that good stuff.
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I read your question to be asking what parts would be necessary for a bottom end rebuild that would withstand higher HP and not have to be rebuilt.
First, it's much easier to do a good rebuild with the block out of the car. It's a necessity if there's any machining to be done.
If you're sticking with a stock 2.0, your factory crank is a stout part that is very reliable in heavy HP applications. No need to look for options there. Rods need upgrading. Eagles are inexpensive and have been shown to be reliable in mid - high HP applications. The lower end Manleys are similar, but US made. Crowers, Carillos, Olivers, Pauters, Magnus, upper end Manleys, you really can't go too far wrong with any of these. Make your own choice based on $, availability, your preference on build and configuration, and size of the rod -- some rods require clearancing the block due to their big end size.
There are a variety of piston mfgrs that make forged pistons as well. Ross is well known, as is Wiseco. Wiseco has a new very HD piston out. Cosworth supplies forged pistons. Again, you will get a good quality product from any of these companies. The important thing to remember is that even with forged pistons there are differences in shape and in metallurgy between the different manufacturers products. Make sure your engine builder coordinates with the technical departments of the piston company to select the proper clearance between the bore and the piston. Too much and you get piston slap, possible scuffing, and lower longevity. Too little and you may seize the motor when it warms up. That's bad for longevity, too. I guess it goes without saying that the labor and machine work is as important than the selection of parts. Find someone who is very experienced with 4g63s, does meticulous work, and is willing to stand behind their work. I've had experience with Buschur, AMS, and RRE. All are quality shops. There are, of course, others as well. Make sure you know what the warranty is, and who pays for parts and for labor if the shortblock fails. Places with good warranties don't have to honor them very often, because they build good stuff and double and triple check them before they go out the door.
You'll need to have your crankshaft checked. If the journals are good, it may just need a micropolish. New factory bearings if your crank is standard size on main and rod bearings. I'd personally do a balance shaft removal. You can use factory parts, or get a balance shaft removal kit from AMS, who has the turned down oil pump shaft which some say supports the rear of the oil pump. I'd also get a new front cover/oil pump, and deburr the oil pump gears and port the oil pressure relief valve orifice before installing it. New harmonic balancer, either factory, Fluidmpr or ATI, depending on your preference and wallet size. New front and rear seals.
That should be the big ticket items. Most of them are included in a built shortblock by one of the vendors previously mentioned. The other parts, like dampeners, are options that they will have available.
First, it's much easier to do a good rebuild with the block out of the car.
It's a necessity if there's any machining to be done.If you're sticking with a stock 2.0, your factory crank is a stout part that is very reliable in heavy HP applications. No need to look for options there. Rods need upgrading. Eagles are inexpensive and have been shown to be reliable in mid - high HP applications. The lower end Manleys are similar, but US made. Crowers, Carillos, Olivers, Pauters, Magnus, upper end Manleys, you really can't go too far wrong with any of these. Make your own choice based on $, availability, your preference on build and configuration, and size of the rod -- some rods require clearancing the block due to their big end size.
There are a variety of piston mfgrs that make forged pistons as well. Ross is well known, as is Wiseco. Wiseco has a new very HD piston out. Cosworth supplies forged pistons. Again, you will get a good quality product from any of these companies. The important thing to remember is that even with forged pistons there are differences in shape and in metallurgy between the different manufacturers products. Make sure your engine builder coordinates with the technical departments of the piston company to select the proper clearance between the bore and the piston. Too much and you get piston slap, possible scuffing, and lower longevity. Too little and you may seize the motor when it warms up. That's bad for longevity, too.
I guess it goes without saying that the labor and machine work is as important than the selection of parts. Find someone who is very experienced with 4g63s, does meticulous work, and is willing to stand behind their work. I've had experience with Buschur, AMS, and RRE. All are quality shops. There are, of course, others as well. Make sure you know what the warranty is, and who pays for parts and for labor if the shortblock fails. Places with good warranties don't have to honor them very often, because they build good stuff and double and triple check them before they go out the door.You'll need to have your crankshaft checked. If the journals are good, it may just need a micropolish. New factory bearings if your crank is standard size on main and rod bearings. I'd personally do a balance shaft removal. You can use factory parts, or get a balance shaft removal kit from AMS, who has the turned down oil pump shaft which some say supports the rear of the oil pump. I'd also get a new front cover/oil pump, and deburr the oil pump gears and port the oil pressure relief valve orifice before installing it. New harmonic balancer, either factory, Fluidmpr or ATI, depending on your preference and wallet size. New front and rear seals.
That should be the big ticket items. Most of them are included in a built shortblock by one of the vendors previously mentioned. The other parts, like dampeners, are options that they will have available.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 183
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From: Grand Cayman
Originally Posted by CO_VR4
I read your question to be asking what parts would be necessary for a bottom end rebuild that would withstand higher HP and not have to be rebuilt.
First, it's much easier to do a good rebuild with the block out of the car. It's a necessity if there's any machining to be done.
If you're sticking with a stock 2.0, your factory crank is a stout part that is very reliable in heavy HP applications. No need to look for options there. Rods need upgrading. Eagles are inexpensive and have been shown to be reliable in mid - high HP applications. The lower end Manleys are similar, but US made. Crowers, Carillos, Olivers, Pauters, Magnus, upper end Manleys, you really can't go too far wrong with any of these. Make your own choice based on $, availability, your preference on build and configuration, and size of the rod -- some rods require clearancing the block due to their big end size.
There are a variety of piston mfgrs that make forged pistons as well. Ross is well known, as is Wiseco. Wiseco has a new very HD piston out. Cosworth supplies forged pistons. Again, you will get a good quality product from any of these companies. The important thing to remember is that even with forged pistons there are differences in shape and in metallurgy between the different manufacturers products. Make sure your engine builder coordinates with the technical departments of the piston company to select the proper clearance between the bore and the piston. Too much and you get piston slap, possible scuffing, and lower longevity. Too little and you may seize the motor when it warms up. That's bad for longevity, too. I guess it goes without saying that the labor and machine work is as important than the selection of parts. Find someone who is very experienced with 4g63s, does meticulous work, and is willing to stand behind their work. I've had experience with Buschur, AMS, and RRE. All are quality shops. There are, of course, others as well. Make sure you know what the warranty is, and who pays for parts and for labor if the shortblock fails. Places with good warranties don't have to honor them very often, because they build good stuff and double and triple check them before they go out the door.
You'll need to have your crankshaft checked. If the journals are good, it may just need a micropolish. New factory bearings if your crank is standard size on main and rod bearings. I'd personally do a balance shaft removal. You can use factory parts, or get a balance shaft removal kit from AMS, who has the turned down oil pump shaft which some say supports the rear of the oil pump. I'd also get a new front cover/oil pump, and deburr the oil pump gears and port the oil pressure relief valve orifice before installing it. New harmonic balancer, either factory, Fluidmpr or ATI, depending on your preference and wallet size. New front and rear seals.
That should be the big ticket items. Most of them are included in a built shortblock by one of the vendors previously mentioned. The other parts, like dampeners, are options that they will have available.
First, it's much easier to do a good rebuild with the block out of the car.
It's a necessity if there's any machining to be done.If you're sticking with a stock 2.0, your factory crank is a stout part that is very reliable in heavy HP applications. No need to look for options there. Rods need upgrading. Eagles are inexpensive and have been shown to be reliable in mid - high HP applications. The lower end Manleys are similar, but US made. Crowers, Carillos, Olivers, Pauters, Magnus, upper end Manleys, you really can't go too far wrong with any of these. Make your own choice based on $, availability, your preference on build and configuration, and size of the rod -- some rods require clearancing the block due to their big end size.
There are a variety of piston mfgrs that make forged pistons as well. Ross is well known, as is Wiseco. Wiseco has a new very HD piston out. Cosworth supplies forged pistons. Again, you will get a good quality product from any of these companies. The important thing to remember is that even with forged pistons there are differences in shape and in metallurgy between the different manufacturers products. Make sure your engine builder coordinates with the technical departments of the piston company to select the proper clearance between the bore and the piston. Too much and you get piston slap, possible scuffing, and lower longevity. Too little and you may seize the motor when it warms up. That's bad for longevity, too.
I guess it goes without saying that the labor and machine work is as important than the selection of parts. Find someone who is very experienced with 4g63s, does meticulous work, and is willing to stand behind their work. I've had experience with Buschur, AMS, and RRE. All are quality shops. There are, of course, others as well. Make sure you know what the warranty is, and who pays for parts and for labor if the shortblock fails. Places with good warranties don't have to honor them very often, because they build good stuff and double and triple check them before they go out the door.You'll need to have your crankshaft checked. If the journals are good, it may just need a micropolish. New factory bearings if your crank is standard size on main and rod bearings. I'd personally do a balance shaft removal. You can use factory parts, or get a balance shaft removal kit from AMS, who has the turned down oil pump shaft which some say supports the rear of the oil pump. I'd also get a new front cover/oil pump, and deburr the oil pump gears and port the oil pressure relief valve orifice before installing it. New harmonic balancer, either factory, Fluidmpr or ATI, depending on your preference and wallet size. New front and rear seals.
That should be the big ticket items. Most of them are included in a built shortblock by one of the vendors previously mentioned. The other parts, like dampeners, are options that they will have available.
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