arp head studs install
I trust your opinion, but help educate me (and possibly others). Per ARP, when using a torque wrench (I don't know of a way you can check bolt stretch on a head stud), you are supposed to preload and unload 5 times with their lube, to reduce the friction between the stud and bolt, and get an accurate torque. So how is the head gasket not "junk" by following ARP's install instructions?
That's the logic I used to help decide to do the one by one method. The spacing between head bolts isn't that great, and on a bone cold engine, I'm not convinced the gasket seal is ever broken.
That's the logic I used to help decide to do the one by one method. The spacing between head bolts isn't that great, and on a bone cold engine, I'm not convinced the gasket seal is ever broken.
When going through the torque sequence you do it with the old gasket. Go through your sequence 5 times and after the 5th, then you put the new gasket on.
Bottom line is it's up to you. Anyone that has any experience building engines and understands how gaskets are engineered will tell you to pull the head and do it right. Why half *** it and take the risk? Chances are that if you're going to be using the original stock gasket that you don't have any need for studs anyway, so why bother?
I did mine using the 1x1 method and now I have an oil leak. I follow the same direction as outline earlier in this thread except for the sequence. And yes I did cycle torgue each stud and still have a leak. My advice, don't do it unless you're going to do it properly by removing the head and replacing the gasket.
You don't use stretch on studs, that's for bolts. The torque values are specified by the manufacturer based on tensile strength and other factors. That is why it's imperative to use the proper lube.
When going through the torque sequence you do it with the old gasket. Go through your sequence 5 times and after the 5th, then you put the new gasket on.
Bottom line is it's up to you. Anyone that has any experience building engines and understands how gaskets are engineered will tell you to pull the head and do it right. Why half *** it and take the risk? Chances are that if you're going to be using the original stock gasket that you don't have any need for studs anyway, so why bother?
When going through the torque sequence you do it with the old gasket. Go through your sequence 5 times and after the 5th, then you put the new gasket on.
Bottom line is it's up to you. Anyone that has any experience building engines and understands how gaskets are engineered will tell you to pull the head and do it right. Why half *** it and take the risk? Chances are that if you're going to be using the original stock gasket that you don't have any need for studs anyway, so why bother?
ahhh, so simple, install studs, preload on the old gasket, and then REMOVE head. Makes perfect sense, and I'm an real idiot for overlooking that option.
But I have to respectively disagree with you about the factory head gasket(s). They've gotten quite good, not just on boosted Mitsu's, but Toyota's also. The factory head gasket will most definitely outperform the factory head bolts in both situations. So it's worth the bother to go with new head studs even if you chose to use a stock head gasket. This ain't no Honda!
i am sure you guys have been dealing with 4G63 engines for a long time, however, you dont seem to have much experience with the evo 8 4G63 engines. The stock evo metal head gaskets have been proven to handle high boost and high hp. on the other hand, it is known that when you boost over 24psi or so, the stock head studs will stretch even more. i think the arp headstuds are the second most upgraded saftey part.
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I respect Jackson Machine alot but I am also wondering why
they made that comment about the OEM Evo head gasket.
It appears to be excellent quality... Part metal and part cosmetic.
I respect Jackson Machine alot but I am also wondering why
they made that comment about the OEM Evo head gasket.
It appears to be excellent quality... Part metal and part cosmetic.
I did mine using the 1x1 method and now I have an oil leak. I follow the same direction as outline earlier in this thread except for the sequence. And yes I did cycle torgue each stud and still have a leak. My advice, don't do it unless you're going to do it properly by removing the head and replacing the gasket.
Can't really see where its leaking from but there is definately an oil leak when I look on the back side of the block. There are plenty of people reporting the same issue which I was aware of prior to doing the HS. I was hesitant 'bout doing the HS because of this but went ahead and did it anyway thinking maybe people with this issue just didn't know what they were doing. Needless to say I was wrong and if given the chance to do over, I wouldn't have touch them at all.
i am sure you guys have been dealing with 4G63 engines for a long time, however, you dont seem to have much experience with the evo 8 4G63 engines. The stock evo metal head gaskets have been proven to handle high boost and high hp. on the other hand, it is known that when you boost over 24psi or so, the stock head studs will stretch even more. i think the arp headstuds are the second most upgraded saftey part.
We've been dealing with Evo's since long before they were available in the States. The stock gaskets have their place, we use them on some of our builds. Your definition of high boost and high horspower differ from mine, I'm sure. No doubt in my mind that someone out there has made big numbers with stock parts, but for how long and how reliably? If you're lifing the head you've got detonation and there is no stud that will fix that for you. Talk to your tuner.
As for our experience with Evo's, I could give you a laundry list of customers all over the world that will vouch for our abilites. They're not too different from a 6 or 7 bolt
Can't really see where its leaking from but there is definately an oil leak when I look on the back side of the block. There are plenty of people reporting the same issue which I was aware of prior to doing the HS. I was hesitant 'bout doing the HS because of this but went ahead and did it anyway thinking maybe people with this issue just didn't know what they were doing. Needless to say I was wrong and if given the chance to do over, I wouldn't have touch them at all.
