I don't know if I should do the studs or just do the cams. I don't want to do the 1x1 method and hope I don't get a leak...the odds are pretty much 50/50. I want to boost 30-31psi on a stock 03' motor. Meth of course...

 

well let me put it this way!
I have been running 25-30psi on my evo for a while and no need for Headstuds.
I reckon just do your cams..

keep it under 30psi and you should be safe i reckon with the stock head gasket and the studs.
" if it aint broke dont fix it"
maybe when you pull of your head at a later stage do it.

 

I say don't do it. I ve been runing 29 psi to 30 psi for 6 month now and don't have any problem as long as your not Knocking like crazy.

 

I have done the 1x1 method and for YEARS supra owners have retorqued their headbolts on a car with stock HG on the notorious BHG 7MGTE and never had issues. If you loosen the bolts more than one at a time yes you will have problems. I also just torqued mine to the same torque as stock on the first round then slowly went up in torque in the install sequence and have had no issues. 7K miles and 30+psi all day on my evo with not a single miss.

 

If you are going to try it, the above points are 2 good things to keep in mind.

1. I don't see how the head could lift by itself under the tension of the other bolts.
2. Starting at stock torque is something that I haven't noticed spoken of elsewhere - it makes total sense, otherwise you would be allowing the head to lift to the initial torque settings.

READ READ and RE- READ the threads so you have each step planned and clear in your head. Be sure to weed out improper procedures though (stud orders, etc...) Make sure you have A GOOD TORQUE WRENCH - do the homework on that issue.

ANOTHER IMPORTANT POINT:

Make sure that the new studs are exactly the same temperature as the engine block.

Completely cooled engine (24 hours to be safe? maybe longer, I don't know for sure)
Store the new studs with the engine to bring them as close as possible to the same temperature.

Might be over kill, but I got that advice from a guy who repaired submarines in the Navy (there's a job you don't want to do wrong!), and has worked with advanced metal working ever since. Small extra effort to take.

Be sure to heat cycle the engine once (don't romp on it!!!) and re-torque things.
As I understand it: NEVER LOOSEN THEM WHEN RE-TORQUE-ING. Only go up in torque - if that's wrong, somebody correct that please.

I also like the comment that says, if you really need head studs, try it. If you get a leak you just have to do what you would have had to do anyway.

HOWEVER: I don't know if you need fresh studs at that point or not ....

Anybody know that (for certain?)

I'm doing mine in the next week or so.

 

i say don't do headstuds unless your going to pull the head off and replace gasket.

Just use oem until you blow the headgasket.. (if you run that kind of boost)

 

+100

I'm not a fan of this practice. Do it right, do it ONCE.

 

There's never enough time or money to do it right, but always enough to do it twice.

 

I think you mean if you cant afford to do it right the first time how can you afford to do it twice?

 

I've built a couple motors and theres no reason why you can't do what was underlined without blowin a gasket. If there;s enough room inside the head to be able to leave your cams in, then you can do it. Your absically replacing one bolt at a time. I had to pull my cams in one of my cars to get to all the bolts. I had my motor out and was rebuilding it anyways, so it all came apart just the same!

 

It's not money, it's wasting money paying someone to do it when I could do it myself. I don't want to cut corners when it comes to the head...I'm going to be running 30-32psi + meth + 280cams.

 

im no expert but my opionion is as follows.
I say if your tune is way conservative and boosting anyting 30 or less your ok not to do headstuds. But if your philosophy is 1-2 knocks very seldom with 25-30 boost then I say do headstuds. If your boosting anything over 30+ do it no matter what. boost is not what causes prolems, its knock that causes extreme cylinder pressure.

 

I did the 1|1 method on my IX and ran into no issues. 25-26 PSI tune range thou.

However, if you are going to pull the head for the head studs... plan ahead and send the head to a trusted shop or machine shop for some porting, chamber polishing, valve angle, etc.

I just do not picture myself pulling the head for just some head studs. lol

Just my 0.02!

 

Yeah. I would go that route instead of putting it back to stock after taking off the head. I'm sticking with 30psi with 11.8/.9:1 a/f ratio

So no studs for me till necessary.