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Re-Torque Head Studs?

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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 12:23 PM
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kmcconn9's Avatar
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From: Hagerstown
Re-Torque Head Studs?

I have had my ARP head studs installed for about 40,000 miles now. I have a slight head gasket leak on the backside of the motor.

The head studs were installed by the 1x1 method (not me).

Should I attempt to re-torque them before I pull the head and install and new gasket and studs?

If so, I assume I would loosen and re-torque in the order you would to torque down the new studs correct? I would have to do this by the 1x1 method as well I would assume.

Thanks.
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 12:28 PM
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From: underground
If your headgasket is already leaking than theirs no way around it...pull the head and get it milled and new head gasket..... i
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 12:31 PM
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Ditto to justa, first I would tell the person that did it thanks for the headache, then replace the headgasket and have the headwork done
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 05blue8
Ditto to justa, first I would tell the person that did it thanks for the headache, then replace the headgasket and have the headwork done
Thanks Pruven Performance....
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by justa4banger
If your headgasket is already leaking than theirs no way around it...pull the head and get it milled and new head gasket..... i

I was told that you wouldnt have to get it milled, dependng on howbad the current leak is. If it is only slight, and not mixing with coolant, then the head shouldnt be warped enough to warrent a mill job.
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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From: Hagerstown
Also, I assume I should replace the arp head studs as well since they have been on for so long. Daily boost around 30 lbs...

Also, if you are not getting the head milled, then would have need to remove the intake manifold and tb from the head?
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 01:32 PM
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From: Wheeling, WV
Why in the world would people suggest getting the head milled?
Esp w/o even confirming that it needs milled.
If you're taking the head off, you can take it somewhere to have it checked.
Clean the head with a razor and Scotchbrite. If you have it cleaned up real nice, some places will check it for free.

Last edited by EVO8emUp; Oct 6, 2009 at 01:37 PM.
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 01:48 PM
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From: Plymouth, MI
Originally Posted by kmcconn9
Also, I assume I should replace the arp head studs as well since they have been on for so long. Daily boost around 30 lbs...
Most people (including me) recommend replacing the head studs especially after 40K miles and since it is pretty cheap insurance. I know many people/places re-use them, but, unless they are the L19 studs, I would just replace them.
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 04:17 AM
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From: Eugene, Oregon
Originally Posted by kmcconn9
Thanks Pruven Performance....
Can't belive people still go over there if you want your evo running messed up that's the perfect place for you Pruven Performance
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 06:38 AM
  #10  
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I have never had any reason to retorque head studs unless they werent torqued properly the first time when using an MLS HG. Some say with a composite gasket it compresses after it heatcycles or something along those lines. I dont buy it. I have also done the 1x1 head stud install a bunch of times with ZERO issues if you do it right. The only time a retorque is in order 100% is on a MKIII Supra where the factory torque setting is tooo low and retorquing the bolts to 72lbs vs the stock 55 will save you the HG problem known on the 7M-GTE motor.
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