problem help please!!!
No, fuel cut is not caused by knock, so don't go crazy, thedarkside. Fuel cut happens when a certain airflow volume is surpassed. He's very foolish to have all those mods without a tune, and he's even more foolish to be adding an AEM EMS - not sure why in the world he's doing that with those basic, low-level mods.
Fuel cut won't hurt the car, but it will cause a CEL after successive occurrences, and it's terribly annoying. It will happen more in the cold weather, since the air is denser, and thus we hit the airflow max at lower boost levels and lower rpms than in warmer weather.
PS. I would get a good MBC before the tune. I have no idea why people keep buying that MBC despite all of our warnings or even where they get the idea to buy it. I sure would like to figure that out...
Fuel cut won't hurt the car, but it will cause a CEL after successive occurrences, and it's terribly annoying. It will happen more in the cold weather, since the air is denser, and thus we hit the airflow max at lower boost levels and lower rpms than in warmer weather.
PS. I would get a good MBC before the tune. I have no idea why people keep buying that MBC despite all of our warnings or even where they get the idea to buy it. I sure would like to figure that out...
No, fuel cut is not caused by knock, so don't go crazy, thedarkside. Fuel cut happens when a certain airflow volume is surpassed. He's very foolish to have all those mods without a tune, and he's even more foolish to be adding an AEM EMS - not sure why in the world he's doing that with those basic, low-level mods.
Fuel cut won't hurt the car, but it will cause a CEL after successive occurrences, and it's terribly annoying. It will happen more in the cold weather, since the air is denser, and thus we hit the airflow max at lower boost levels and lower rpms than in warmer weather.
PS. I would get a good MBC before the tune. I have no idea why people keep buying that MBC despite all of our warnings or even where they get the idea to buy it. I sure would like to figure that out...
Fuel cut won't hurt the car, but it will cause a CEL after successive occurrences, and it's terribly annoying. It will happen more in the cold weather, since the air is denser, and thus we hit the airflow max at lower boost levels and lower rpms than in warmer weather.
PS. I would get a good MBC before the tune. I have no idea why people keep buying that MBC despite all of our warnings or even where they get the idea to buy it. I sure would like to figure that out...
correct me if im wrong but i was getting something similiar to fuel cut but is was the boost blowing out the flame on my spark plugs. changed the gap to .24 and problem fixed. but i would have to agree with everyone else. get a tune and fuel pump.
Blowing out spark is common, too, but it feels nothing like fuel cut. Blowing out spark causes sputtering at or near peak boost, but fuel cut is like hitting a brick wall and losing all boost.
No, fuel cut is not caused by knock, so don't go crazy, thedarkside. Fuel cut happens when a certain airflow volume is surpassed. He's very foolish to have all those mods without a tune, and he's even more foolish to be adding an AEM EMS - not sure why in the world he's doing that with those basic, low-level mods.
Fuel cut won't hurt the car, but it will cause a CEL after successive occurrences, and it's terribly annoying. It will happen more in the cold weather, since the air is denser, and thus we hit the airflow max at lower boost levels and lower rpms than in warmer weather.
PS. I would get a good MBC before the tune. I have no idea why people keep buying that MBC despite all of our warnings or even where they get the idea to buy it. I sure would like to figure that out...
Fuel cut won't hurt the car, but it will cause a CEL after successive occurrences, and it's terribly annoying. It will happen more in the cold weather, since the air is denser, and thus we hit the airflow max at lower boost levels and lower rpms than in warmer weather.
PS. I would get a good MBC before the tune. I have no idea why people keep buying that MBC despite all of our warnings or even where they get the idea to buy it. I sure would like to figure that out...
Thanks agian guys and yes i will have the fuel pump!!!!
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Posts: n/a
Im not going to bash you but I really just recommend the hallman.
The GM solenoid is a three port unit versus the stocker that is bleed type system (two ports). It allows for more accurate boost control and quicker spool but you must be able to tune for it. That is, if you flash a map that was made to work with the stock soleniod but you have a GM unit, then you'll most likely boost spike.
I say the GM unit is good for any staged car, unless you have some crazy set up...my buddy ran it with his Stage II car without issue. But again, he tuned for it and was able to control boost better and spool sooner.
I still like the Hallman though dont ask but I do lol. The choice is yours the blue pill or the red pill. I also may be wrong about the GM solenoid info because I dont know anything.
The GM solenoid is a three port unit versus the stocker that is bleed type system (two ports). It allows for more accurate boost control and quicker spool but you must be able to tune for it. That is, if you flash a map that was made to work with the stock soleniod but you have a GM unit, then you'll most likely boost spike.
I say the GM unit is good for any staged car, unless you have some crazy set up...my buddy ran it with his Stage II car without issue. But again, he tuned for it and was able to control boost better and spool sooner.
I still like the Hallman though dont ask but I do lol. The choice is yours the blue pill or the red pill. I also may be wrong about the GM solenoid info because I dont know anything.
Im not going to bash you but I really just recommend the hallman.
The GM solenoid is a three port unit versus the stocker that is bleed type system (two ports). It allows for more accurate boost control and quicker spool but you must be able to tune for it. That is, if you flash a map that was made to work with the stock soleniod but you have a GM unit, then you'll most likely boost spike.
I say the GM unit is good for any staged car, unless you have some crazy set up...my buddy ran it with his Stage II car without issue. But again, he tuned for it and was able to control boost better and spool sooner.
I still like the Hallman though dont ask but I do lol. The choice is yours the blue pill or the red pill. I also may be wrong about the GM solenoid info because I dont know anything.
The GM solenoid is a three port unit versus the stocker that is bleed type system (two ports). It allows for more accurate boost control and quicker spool but you must be able to tune for it. That is, if you flash a map that was made to work with the stock soleniod but you have a GM unit, then you'll most likely boost spike.
I say the GM unit is good for any staged car, unless you have some crazy set up...my buddy ran it with his Stage II car without issue. But again, he tuned for it and was able to control boost better and spool sooner.
I still like the Hallman though dont ask but I do lol. The choice is yours the blue pill or the red pill. I also may be wrong about the GM solenoid info because I dont know anything.
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: Bloomington, Illinois
Okay I am new to this game too so sorry for dumb "?".....but I have a 05 MR with a Vishnu stage 1++ kit on it and bought it from a guy in Californa and I live in Illinois, which is a big temperature change and I am experiencing some of the same stuff in my higher gears also (wot and then it will cut off for a second and then slam back with all the power again). So which one do you guys think it is (fuel cut or wrong spark gap)? What would you do to fix it? Thanks again for all your guys help!!!