Heat wrapping the cross beam by downpipe
Well recently I was called "Buschur the parts pusher" so that will be in my head for awhile. Once again though I am going to promote our parts and say "I told you so"
The simple fact is a 3" downpipe is a very tight fit through the small area there is in the front of an EVO. I know this. With my 18 years of building 4g63 parts I KNEW that the downpipes were going to cause problems with the tie bars. So, even though some people frown on the fact that we use a spacer with our downpipes there was and is a reason we did it.
IF you happen to buy a 3" downpipe from someone who claims they do not need spacers that is just great. Neither does ours. 90% of the time they go right in. Problem is this, the cheap *** rubber motor mounts in the EVO are holding up a bunch of weight and the engines are making a lot of power. Then engine is sitting on a rubber mount and that rubber mount is being rocked back and forth constantly. This is further weakening the crappy mount and over time (not a lot of time as many of you are seeing) the mount sags and your good fitting downpipe then hits the tie bars.
To keep this from ever happening with our downpipes we have included a .400 thick stainless steel spacer for the tie bars since the beginning.
We do sell these spacers seperately so all of you guys can fix your exhaust that were sold as "not needing any stinking spacers". Our install kits come with the spacers and a longer bolt to re-install the tie bars. They work great and will never rust as they are machined from 304 grade stainless.
The heat wrap will wear through and only dampen the noise. Fix it the right way
The simple fact is a 3" downpipe is a very tight fit through the small area there is in the front of an EVO. I know this. With my 18 years of building 4g63 parts I KNEW that the downpipes were going to cause problems with the tie bars. So, even though some people frown on the fact that we use a spacer with our downpipes there was and is a reason we did it.
IF you happen to buy a 3" downpipe from someone who claims they do not need spacers that is just great. Neither does ours. 90% of the time they go right in. Problem is this, the cheap *** rubber motor mounts in the EVO are holding up a bunch of weight and the engines are making a lot of power. Then engine is sitting on a rubber mount and that rubber mount is being rocked back and forth constantly. This is further weakening the crappy mount and over time (not a lot of time as many of you are seeing) the mount sags and your good fitting downpipe then hits the tie bars.
To keep this from ever happening with our downpipes we have included a .400 thick stainless steel spacer for the tie bars since the beginning.
We do sell these spacers seperately so all of you guys can fix your exhaust that were sold as "not needing any stinking spacers". Our install kits come with the spacers and a longer bolt to re-install the tie bars. They work great and will never rust as they are machined from 304 grade stainless.
The heat wrap will wear through and only dampen the noise. Fix it the right way
Evolving Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 348
Likes: 0
From: Green Book, NJ
Well recently I was called "Buschur the parts pusher" so that will be in my head for awhile. Once again though I am going to promote our parts and say "I told you so"
The simple fact is a 3" downpipe is a very tight fit through the small area there is in the front of an EVO. I know this. With my 18 years of building 4g63 parts I KNEW that the downpipes were going to cause problems with the tie bars. So, even though some people frown on the fact that we use a spacer with our downpipes there was and is a reason we did it.
IF you happen to buy a 3" downpipe from someone who claims they do not need spacers that is just great. Neither does ours. 90% of the time they go right in. Problem is this, the cheap *** rubber motor mounts in the EVO are holding up a bunch of weight and the engines are making a lot of power. Then engine is sitting on a rubber mount and that rubber mount is being rocked back and forth constantly. This is further weakening the crappy mount and over time (not a lot of time as many of you are seeing) the mount sags and your good fitting downpipe then hits the tie bars.
To keep this from ever happening with our downpipes we have included a .400 thick stainless steel spacer for the tie bars since the beginning.
We do sell these spacers seperately so all of you guys can fix your exhaust that were sold as "not needing any stinking spacers". Our install kits come with the spacers and a longer bolt to re-install the tie bars. They work great and will never rust as they are machined from 304 grade stainless.
The heat wrap will wear through and only dampen the noise. Fix it the right way
The simple fact is a 3" downpipe is a very tight fit through the small area there is in the front of an EVO. I know this. With my 18 years of building 4g63 parts I KNEW that the downpipes were going to cause problems with the tie bars. So, even though some people frown on the fact that we use a spacer with our downpipes there was and is a reason we did it.
IF you happen to buy a 3" downpipe from someone who claims they do not need spacers that is just great. Neither does ours. 90% of the time they go right in. Problem is this, the cheap *** rubber motor mounts in the EVO are holding up a bunch of weight and the engines are making a lot of power. Then engine is sitting on a rubber mount and that rubber mount is being rocked back and forth constantly. This is further weakening the crappy mount and over time (not a lot of time as many of you are seeing) the mount sags and your good fitting downpipe then hits the tie bars.
To keep this from ever happening with our downpipes we have included a .400 thick stainless steel spacer for the tie bars since the beginning.
We do sell these spacers seperately so all of you guys can fix your exhaust that were sold as "not needing any stinking spacers". Our install kits come with the spacers and a longer bolt to re-install the tie bars. They work great and will never rust as they are machined from 304 grade stainless.
The heat wrap will wear through and only dampen the noise. Fix it the right way
Don't dent the downpipe. You spent good money on a mandrel bent exhaust so it would flow good, putting a dent in it makes no sense.
The spacers are not on the site.........but we are adding them now. The spacer kit will come with (5) stainless spacers, (5) bolts and washers.
You are correct Filter, we do not specify in the instructions what the spacers are for. Must have overlooked it. I am adding that to them today. Sorry.
The spacers are not on the site.........but we are adding them now. The spacer kit will come with (5) stainless spacers, (5) bolts and washers.
You are correct Filter, we do not specify in the instructions what the spacers are for. Must have overlooked it. I am adding that to them today. Sorry.
Added bonus of heat wrap is it cuts down on in car noise at highway cruize speed (80mph). I wrapped the downpipe (up to the flexjoint) long ago to keep heat out of the oilpan, and just recently wrapped the remainder of the downpipe and the whole catback, center section is a resonated test pipe so I have not bothered to wrap that yet.
You can do the whole thing, turbo to tail pipe with 2 50' rolls from summit, the kit includes a can of hightemp silicon spray selant to seal the wrap.
You can do the whole thing, turbo to tail pipe with 2 50' rolls from summit, the kit includes a can of hightemp silicon spray selant to seal the wrap.
Many people, including us, do not recommend wrapping exhaust systems. From what I have seen I'd say it can lead to pre-mature failure. The tubing doesn't seem to hold up as well if it is wrapped.
We sell the full DEI line of wraps here.
We sell the full DEI line of wraps here.
Actually Helix recommends 10mm spacers for the tie-bars when using the V2. The pipe clears under static conditions, but as you found out, once the pipe heats up, and as Dave suggested, once the engine starts moving around, you may get contact.
Better that its close to your cross-members than your Oil pan or TC.
Better that its close to your cross-members than your Oil pan or TC.
I have the DC Sports DP and heat wrapped it to keep excessive heat off the oil pan...I even put Thermo Tec adhesive heat shield on the pan...HUGE difference in the amount of heat in that area. For added clearance I added 2 washers to each bolt on the front crossmember. No rubbing, no clanking, everything works just fine.
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 609
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, NY (Hurry up and wait)
I recently purchased the dc sports DP with cat delete...bought a crapload of washers to shim it up when i get it......you say you only used 2 washers for the crossbraces? And did you use any at all for the crossbrace further back?
I bought it because it was the cheapest way to get a 3inch dp and a cat delete.
At the time anyway.
Mine is heat wrapped, i have spacers, and it doesnt hit. Sounds good (i have a buschur cat back)
At the time anyway.
Mine is heat wrapped, i have spacers, and it doesnt hit. Sounds good (i have a buschur cat back)