Installed Boost and EGT Guages
May 24, 2003, 10:42 PM
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Installed Boost and EGT Guages
I used a set of 2 1/16" Autometer guages for the install. I would have preferred Omori in standard measure but didn't have the $$$.
The install costs around $200 bucks for the gauges, cups and misc hardware. The gauges fit perfectly behind the wiper and blinker arms - the pumping was routed in usual fashion in the engine bay. I drilled a hole about an 1" above and to the left of the throttle cable. From the drivers side, this appears to be the best (and easiest) way into the car.
I was trying to get the gauges to dim with the interior dimming switch, but I cant figure out how the dimming system works. For some reason as the lights get brighter, to voltage to lights gets less - I would dim the lights in the car and my gauges would get brighter - bright interior lights, dim gauges.. whatever. I just plumbed the gauges into a switched circuit when the parking lights come on.
I used an existing threaded hole for the EGT probe in the manifold. You want to get it about 2" back from the turbine footprint - I was hoping to use the #3 manifold bank but the probe appeared too long and would probably bottom out before being able to thread the cap nut. The #3 bank looks to have the most backpressure from the runner design, #1 and #4 are smooth, #2 is somewhat restrictive and #3 looks to be the worst (generally speaking). Which means it has a higher chance of dentonation, so I wanted to monitor it with the EGT. Anyway, I used the #1 bank - drilled out and tapped 1/8 NPT. Takes time - but not too difficult.
All in all - they work great!
The install costs around $200 bucks for the gauges, cups and misc hardware. The gauges fit perfectly behind the wiper and blinker arms - the pumping was routed in usual fashion in the engine bay. I drilled a hole about an 1" above and to the left of the throttle cable. From the drivers side, this appears to be the best (and easiest) way into the car.
I was trying to get the gauges to dim with the interior dimming switch, but I cant figure out how the dimming system works. For some reason as the lights get brighter, to voltage to lights gets less - I would dim the lights in the car and my gauges would get brighter - bright interior lights, dim gauges.. whatever. I just plumbed the gauges into a switched circuit when the parking lights come on.
I used an existing threaded hole for the EGT probe in the manifold. You want to get it about 2" back from the turbine footprint - I was hoping to use the #3 manifold bank but the probe appeared too long and would probably bottom out before being able to thread the cap nut. The #3 bank looks to have the most backpressure from the runner design, #1 and #4 are smooth, #2 is somewhat restrictive and #3 looks to be the worst (generally speaking). Which means it has a higher chance of dentonation, so I wanted to monitor it with the EGT. Anyway, I used the #1 bank - drilled out and tapped 1/8 NPT. Takes time - but not too difficult.
All in all - they work great!
Last edited by SmokinJoe; May 24, 2003 at 10:50 PM.
May 24, 2003, 11:38 PM
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Argh..im such a Newbie...what's EGT and wht does that measue? that looks really nice.. i i like the look of those guages on those side..altho idk if ure camera or wht not..but they look liek they're hard to read.. is that tru? 
May 25, 2003, 12:42 AM
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Originally posted by I4K20C
Argh..im such a Newbie...what's EGT and wht does that measue? that looks really nice.. i i like the look of those guages on those side..altho idk if ure camera or wht not..but they look liek they're hard to read.. is that tru?
Argh..im such a Newbie...what's EGT and wht does that measue? that looks really nice.. i i like the look of those guages on those side..altho idk if ure camera or wht not..but they look liek they're hard to read.. is that tru?
May 25, 2003, 01:32 AM
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It's a cheapo mechanical - the nylon tube is hidden under the plastic sheath..
The EGT is basic way of understanding whether the engine is being pushed to its limit...
The EGT is basic way of understanding whether the engine is being pushed to its limit...
May 25, 2003, 03:21 AM
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Gotta say, those gauges look awesome in the dark! Question, do you have your steering column down low in order for you to see both your EGT and boost gauges without blocking any of your factory gauge cluster? I have my steering column all the way up since I have long legs and need the room to heal-toe the brake and gas.
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May 25, 2003, 02:44 PM
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I'm 6'1" - so its up pretty high.
the guages are spaced far enough apart so you can clearly see the Mitsu gauges -
They are also down just low enough to have them clear the wiper and turn signal arms
the guages are spaced far enough apart so you can clearly see the Mitsu gauges -
They are also down just low enough to have them clear the wiper and turn signal arms
May 26, 2003, 11:05 PM
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The first thing you do is coat the drill bit with white grease - then, continually blow out the debris before breaking through the manifold - the few bits that do break through will pass out the exhaust on start up. If you know what a turbine wheel looks and feels like - you also know a few bits of shavings would do no harm.
I see b/w 600 and 800 in street driving and 1000 while cruising on the freeway. Not bad for a pumped up 4 pot.
I see b/w 600 and 800 in street driving and 1000 while cruising on the freeway. Not bad for a pumped up 4 pot.
May 27, 2003, 01:10 AM
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The way we've done it for years on DSMs is to leave the engine running while drilling through the manifold. The exhaust pulses will blow most of the chips up as you're drilling and anything that does make it into the exhaust will be sent downstream instead of maybe going up into the cylinders.
May 28, 2003, 08:47 PM
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Another neat trick is to place a magnet near the drill point. As you drill it will pick up 95% of the shavings. You might need to clean it off once or twice but it really keeps the mess down. It can also be used in conjunction with the grease.
FWIW I am getting 800-900 degrees at idle and between 1050 and 1200 at cruise. Going WOT I have to work really hard to get it over 1400.
*I also tapped into the first cylinder on the drivers side.
Mike
FWIW I am getting 800-900 degrees at idle and between 1050 and 1200 at cruise. Going WOT I have to work really hard to get it over 1400.
*I also tapped into the first cylinder on the drivers side.
Mike
