I am curretly building a opel GT and I plan on using a 4g63 mated to a powerglide auto tranny. My question is that if a designer did not have to worry about space constanints, what would the best, most effiecient header look like. I would love to hear from Dave Buschur on this and his expereince mounting a 4g63 to a powerglide. The cars weighs about 1,500 as it sits minus the engine. Should be good for the 7's. I just don't knpw what class she would run in? Any ideas from the tru fabricators and designers on the board would be great.

 

I can give a few pointers on the manifold from engineering/building formula sae cars as well as manifolds at the shop....as for the powerglide mating, just bit of machine work I'm sure

as for class...what series do you want to run? most of the nhra are limited via turbo size (compressor side inducer diameter and turbine mounting flange) and weight...nhra is also the most strict, so build with their formula.

I would say probably Modified...up to 2.4L weighing in at 2100 lbs with driver and fuel after the run. Single turbo 4 cylinder inducer of 78mm, measured max of 79.5mm. The turbine side must be a T04 flange.

 

based on your exprerience, are there gains to be had beyond an off the shelf equall length manifold? The car had a big block in it, so althought the car is small, space is really not an issue. Dave used to make a mounting plate for a powerglide. I think he used it in his starion.

 

how many project cars do you have haha, hows the miata going...

 

I read somewhere that "The turbocharger should be positioned as close to the engine as possible in order to maximise its efficiency because it needs to be as close to the hot source as possible."

If space were no constraint, I figure the most efficient design would be made of straight pipes with no bends that conjoin in the shortest length possible at the turbocharger.

 

fewer bends of course are better and the hotter (closer to the head) the more volume which is better. But length and volume play a large part...keeping velocity in the right direction and high is important. Lots can be found in the collector and playing with piping diameters and lengths. I can get you a few base formulas to get you in the desired ballpark from there it comes to tweaking. How many cfm or lb/min are you looking to flow (how much power and what abllparked a/f)?
I highly suggest a stepped manifold as it helps to broaden the torque curve/peak VE's.

 

I will have to calculate those numbers and get back to you. HP target is going to be around 600-700 depenging on the fuel and tune.

 

Too Many. I have bailed on the miata fo now. I have decided that my first priority should be getting the opel back together. That thing will see the track this year with a healthy 4g63 and a big turbo. 8's should be easy with the power to weight ratio and the fact that the car is already a full tube chasis with a narrowed 9" ford and wheelie bars. I have enough 4g63 parts and blocks to put it together for cheap. I just need to come up with a name? The Evopel perhaps.

 

If you run Nopi you would be Pro RWD... most any classes will be Pro Sportsman, Pro RWD or Pro Outlaw. The tube chassis pretty much limits your choices.

 

1) Ask dave about the header he made, I think he can make something for the Evo (reversed orientation)

2) Intake manifold's throttle body is facing wrong way, it will face the firewall so youll need a custom intake manifold, DSM Manifold on a late Evo flange.. I'm sure AMS can make one for you, or you can do it yourself.

3) Buschur's motor plate is made to order, so he can make one for your engine (I asked him about this a year ago) I asked about what to use for a manual transmission and he said he had no idea, but that they have been using automatics, so they also have some info on a flexplate to use.

4) You will have to calculate the type of RPM range your looking at, as this will have a direct impact on pipe diameter and length, Equal length tubing still applies though, I would top-mount the turbo so you can get fresh air through the hood..

5) One of the race radiator kits for the Evo would probably work for this application.. You have to look into an electric water pump setup and the rest of the RWD conversion parts.

6) The more you find out, the more I can apply to my B210 hatch project I was planning on finishing up once my bills are paid off.

7) Try to get an intact engine/ecu harness, it'll make getting the swap up and running alot faster.

6) Name: GROPEL

 

The car is 90% all there with working breaks cooling system, fuel system, I was thinking about going to a Motec and wiring it all from scratch, It is hard ro find a stock harness. I amy have to borrow your head for a quick mock up in a could of weeks. See you tommorow Jack

 

motec is a great system!! as for the BRAKE system :P

 

Pro Oulaw looks close but the cars have to be 1993 or newer . This is a 1971 car. Old School Outlaw looks promising, but they only have that class at Atco. I need to look into the NHRA and see if I may fit in better over there.

 

I have a Motec M4 for sale with M&W igniton box to run distributorless ignition. I also have the cam sensor, coils, cam gears with the magnets installed and wiring harness.....only problem is cam gears and wiring harness are for B series Honda. I also have a Weldon fuel pump to feed that 4G63 and 1000cc injectors. Let me know if you are interested in anything.