Boost gauge tap in point
Sorry so long, long day at work 
Anyways here are two pics for you guys of where my boost gauge line is tee'd in. This is what I think is the ideal to tee a boost gauge line in so you don't have to take the risk of going into the fpr line and having that pop off causing potential harm to your motor.
Anyways here are two pics for you guys of where my boost gauge line is tee'd in. This is what I think is the ideal to tee a boost gauge line in so you don't have to take the risk of going into the fpr line and having that pop off causing potential harm to your motor.
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
From: SoCal - Where pimpin aint easy
QUOTE
TECH TIP: It is ideal to connect to a vacuum hose that goes directly to the intake manifold whenever a vacuum/pressure source is needed. Some hoses connected to solenoids or the throttle body may not read pressure all the time (or at all) and some may not read vacuum. Using any hoses with those characteristics will obviously give you very inaccurate readings...or none at all. The particular hose from the fuel pressure regulator to the bottom of the FPR solenoid reads vacuum and boost 24/7, so it's a prime candidate.
Tie strap all vacuum lines at their connections to ensure they will not blow off under boost.
After your connections are made to the gauge or Control Unit II, start the car and check that the gauge is reading vacuum. Stock Evos will read approximately 16in/Hg (.55 BAR).
TECH TIP: It is ideal to connect to a vacuum hose that goes directly to the intake manifold whenever a vacuum/pressure source is needed. Some hoses connected to solenoids or the throttle body may not read pressure all the time (or at all) and some may not read vacuum. Using any hoses with those characteristics will obviously give you very inaccurate readings...or none at all. The particular hose from the fuel pressure regulator to the bottom of the FPR solenoid reads vacuum and boost 24/7, so it's a prime candidate.
Tie strap all vacuum lines at their connections to ensure they will not blow off under boost.
After your connections are made to the gauge or Control Unit II, start the car and check that the gauge is reading vacuum. Stock Evos will read approximately 16in/Hg (.55 BAR).
I am sure it will work but this is just in a way a fail safe method...... I do believe there are people that have had them pop off that I have seen on here but either way it works as long as you are safe about it and use at least zip ties.
Any more feedback? Has anyone else t-d their boost line here? I have and my boost is about 2psi low and seems to hesitate registering slightly when coming on. Power comes on just fine. I have a new Autometer gauge on the way to confirm. No leaks either. Jusst checking, I guess Autometer gauges can be inaccurate sometimes.
Defi BF here and tapped at FPR like the instructions say. I got it Ziptied down on every conection. The one on the defi sending unit, the one on the FPR, all 3 sides of the T and the one connected to module on manifold. Used the Ziptie gun so I know its tight. Boost is stable as ever and goes from 20 psi to 15 psi like its supposed to.
bringing back from the dead I had a bad boost gauge needle shaking problem. My friend suggested I switch from the BOV line to FPR line and the needle shaking went away. I have Defi BFs and they are pretty accurate
